BLIND-HAMS Archives

For blind ham radio operators

BLIND-HAMS@LISTSERV.ICORS.ORG

Options: Use Forum View

Use Monospaced Font
Show Text Part by Default
Show All Mail Headers

Message: [<< First] [< Prev] [Next >] [Last >>]
Topic: [<< First] [< Prev] [Next >] [Last >>]
Author: [<< First] [< Prev] [Next >] [Last >>]

Print Reply
Subject:
From:
Scott Howell <[log in to unmask]>
Reply To:
For blind ham radio operators <[log in to unmask]>
Date:
Sun, 15 Jan 2012 06:44:28 -0500
Content-Type:
text/plain
Parts/Attachments:
text/plain (165 lines)
Buddy,

Good point and btw, I did find the male BNC to dual binding post adapter and ordered a couple.

THanks,

On Jan 14, 2012, at 10:10 PM, Buddy Brannan wrote:

> You could use one of the thumbscrews that holds the bottom cover on as =
> ground if you needed to.=20
> --
> Buddy Brannan, KB5ELV - Erie, PA
> Phone: (814) 860-3194 or 888-75-BUDDY
> 
> 
> 
> On Jan 14, 2012, at 10:08 PM, Steve Dresser wrote:
> 
>> Scott,
>> =20
>> I'm surprised that the radio doesn't have some sort of grounding lug =
> or=20
>> screw.  In most modern radios, the chassis itself is at ground =
> potential,=20
>> and if you have no other choice, you can just loosen a screw =
> somewhere, wrap=20
>> the end of the wire around it, and tighten it back up.  However, I =
> advise=20
>> that only as a last resort.
>> =20
>> Steve
>> =20
>> ----- Original Message -----=20
>> From: "Dan B Dyer Jr,/Danny" <[log in to unmask]>
>> To: <[log in to unmask]>
>> Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2012 15:30
>> Subject: Re: A QRP portable antenna and question
>> =20
>> =20
>>> you can atatch the counterpoise wire wound once and twisted around =
> the
>>> outside/ground, sheald, whatever, of the BNC conector, or, for that=20=
> 
>>> matter,
>>> if it's thin enough in diameter, you can atatch it to the outside of =
> the=20
>>> BNC
>>> conector on the radio itself, making sure the loop of wire is slid =
> down=20
>>> the
>>> outside of the bnc plug as far as it will go, then atatch the BNC =
> conector
>>> with the 24 foot wire atatched to its' center pin , as you normally =
> would,
>>> to the radio.  Even without a ground lug or screw or conection as =
> such, on
>>> the radio, the outside of the BNC conector is, in fact, the ground =
> side of
>>> that conector, and should work nicely.  HTH, Danny.
>>> ----- Original Message -----=20
>>> From: "Scott Howell" <[log in to unmask]>
>>> To: <[log in to unmask]>
>>> Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2012 3:19 PM
>>> Subject: Re: A QRP portable antenna and question
>>> =20
>>> =20
>>>> Thanks gents.
>>>> =20
>>>> First the radio does not have a ground connector, this is an =
> Elecraft =3D
>>>> KX1. David, when you say screen of the connector I assume you mean =
> the =3D
>>>> outer portion of the connector correct? This is a BNC connector.
>>>> =20
>>>> THanks,
>>>> 73
>>>> Scott/N3BYY
>>>> On Jan 14, 2012, at 3:11 PM, Gerry Leary wrote:
>>>> =20
>>>>> I would connect to the ground terminal on the Radio.
>>>>> ----- Original Message -----=3D20
>>>>> From: "Scott Howell" <[log in to unmask]>
>>>>> To: <[log in to unmask]>
>>>>> Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2012 11:37 AM
>>>>> Subject: A QRP portable antenna and question
>>>>> =3D20
>>>>> =3D20
>>>>>> Hey good people,
>>>>>> =3D20
>>>>>> Well all this antenna talk got me thinking about an antenna =
> solution =3D
>>>> for =3D3D
>>>>>> my KX1. I was reading a Q&A on the Elecraft site and they =
> recommended =3D
>>>> a =3D3D
>>>>>> 24-foot piece of wire connected to the center of a BNC connector. =
> =3D
>>>> THen =3D3D
>>>>>> you would attach a 16-foot piece of wire. However, what was not =3D
>>>> stated =3D3D
>>>>>> and what I wanted to know (not having put hands on this =3D
>>>> configuration) =3D3D
>>>>>> where do you connect the 16-foot piece of wire that is acting as a =
> =3D3D
>>>>>> counterpoise?
>>>>>> Here is what Elecraft states on their site.
>>>>>> Q:  What's your favorite field antenna?  A:  A rotatable =
> log-periodic =3D
>>>> at =3D3D
>>>>>> 100', fed with home-made ladder line. (Just kidding!) What we =3D
>>>> recommend =3D3D
>>>>>> in the KXAT1 manual for 40-20 m is about 24' of #26 insulated =3D3D
>>>>>> copper-clad steel antenna wire (available from The Wireman), used =
> as =3D
>>>> a =3D3D
>>>>>> vertical or "sorta-vertical" radiator. You'll also need at least =
> one =3D
>>>> =3D3D
>>>>>> ground radial, 16' or longer (more on that below). The wire can be =
> =3D3D
>>>>>> tossed into a tree, or, if a tree is not available, supported by a =
> =3D3D
>>>>>> portable mast or other support. The 24' length can be loaded on =
> all=20
>>>>>> =3D3D=3D
>>>> =20
>>>>>> three bands (20, 30 and 40 meters), and the wire itself weighs =
> under =3D
>>>> 1 =3D3D
>>>>>> ounce. Performance of this antenna varies with wire length, =
> height,=20
>>>>>> =3D3D=3D
>>>> =20
>>>>>> ground characteristics, and the nature of surrounding objects, but =
> in =3D
>>>> =3D3D
>>>>>> general will be much better than a short, loaded vertical, and may =
> =3D3D
>>>>>> outperform a low-mounted dipole or inverted vee. Even on 40 =
> meters, =3D
>>>> the =3D3D
>>>>>> 24' length will perform very well once matched by the tuner. A 33' =
> =3D
>>>> wire =3D3D
>>>>>> length should be avoided since it's close to a half-wave on 20 =3D
>>>> meters. =3D3D
>>>>>> For 80 m, a resonant antenna is recommended. It should be possible =
> to =3D
>>>> =3D3D
>>>>>> use an 80 m antenna on multiple bands. A loading coil is another =
> =3D3D
>>>>>> possibility to get a shorter antenna running on 80 m.
>>>>>> =3D20
>>>>>> So, Just trying to figure out the best way to do this and input =
> =3D3D
>>>>>> appreciated. Yeah I should be getting good at antennas before long =
> =3D
>>>> since =3D3D
>>>>>> I have to put something together.
>>>>>> =3D20
>>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>>> 73
>>>>>> Scott/N3BYY=3D3D=3D20
>>> =20

ATOM RSS1 RSS2