Cuyler Page wrote:
> Actually, I am surprised no one has yet mentioned *XYPEX* (pronounced 
> zypex),
that is because I was asleep
have used it for 20+ years in some pretty tough situations, though I 
AVOID waterproofing as I hate dealing w/ the 5% that never works...

another neat mixture is iron filings w/ mortar, commonly called ironite, 
makes for a very hard nearly impermeable mortar, but lacks flexibility

I also like betonite (expansive clay), though have had little direct 
experience with it

waterproofing solutions need to be selected specific to the conditions 
encountered

in waterproofing there are two things to keep in mind, positive and 
negative, in short

positive waterproofing is when the impermeable barrier is placed on the 
exterior of the masonry

negative is when it is placed on the interior [a positive solution is 
always better than a negative one]

CMU is something of a problem... though you could inject something into 
it, like a polyurethane, as wld work on a concrete foundation
you could also be using a whole lot of expensive material for little effect
and I am a bit confused by the distinction between waterproofing and 
structural issues that Larry describes

the cheap quick-fix, and I do not know if it would work in this case, 
would be to bridge the large cracks w/ a fiberglass mesh embedded in epoxy
to then stucco the entire wall with a mortar with shredded fiberglass 
reinforcement (this used to be sold as a popular way to lay CMU w/out 
using mortar between the blocks)
and then coat the stucco w/ an elastomeric coating (though make sure you 
are not using a product that will gas off into the interior)
you will then have provided a negative waterproofing to the wall... and 
without excavation on the exterior
and look at where the wall is bulged and see if that section alone can 
be removed and rebuilt without jacking up the house... see if shoring is 
needed, for sure

though I agree that the best is to waterproof the wall from the exterior 
and to make sure that there is adequate/appropriate means of drainage, 
this is not always the optimal solution
particularly if what you want is to save on cost and arrive at a livable 
situation

last year I visited a house in Rochester, NY area (w/ my brother Jim) 
where his friend had the CMU walls removed and rebuilt (in sections), 
and a trench drain installed on the interior
though it is not my kind of work it did look like an acceptable 
compromise to what could have been a lot higher cost
I got the impression the house was not jacked

though an interior trench drain, w/ a sump pump, is not the best 
solution, it is a solution
though in the long run one needs to consider the health effect of wet 
basements... and the energy costs of running a dehumidifier
as we live close to the Atlantic, about 2' above sea level, and we are 
the only house w/ a basement, that the previous owner dug and built 
below the house
short people should never be allowed to dig basements, or lie about how 
they do not leak
our earth is 100% sand, no clay, very permeable and when it rains a 
whole lot we get mini-geysers coming up through the concrete floor that 
in places is very very thin
we run the dehumidifier constantly, and the sump pumps are all sorts of 
fun to play with

][<en




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