Polyurethane glues- Excel or Gorilla are great in damp conditions-
however they do foam ie expand so would suggest you use less than you
think you'll need, also it is a bear to clean off of your hands, however
have foud this to be very effective adhesive in situations where there
is contamination from prior glues- ie @ frame and panel doors and on
mortise and tenon chair joints....
Titebond II is fairly weather proof and more foregiving than the
above... could apply it with a glue syringe.

More and more I'm using "Hot Shot" glues- basically crazy glue w/
shoulders, not the strongest but definitely the fastest.
hold the pieces together and hit it w/ the accelerant- it's done.

Met History wrote:

> The walls in my bathroom were painted by our "expensive" painter five
> years ago.  The overall paint job is still good, but the boundary
> between the tile and the wall has failed.  In prepping this area for
> touchups, our "cheap" painter [that's me] noticed that the wall had
> been canvassed.  The bottom edge of the canvas - where it almost meets
> the tile - is still pretty solid, but it has curled up, away from the
> wall.
>
> I am really too cheap a painter to reglue all 10 feet x 1/4 inch of
> this damn canvas edging, especially high up where I might fall and
> cause injury to my precious body.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Sign me,  Please Don't Tell Me to Spray a Waxy Substance On It