Chris:
The material that separates sidewalk concrete from buildings, light pole
footings, etc., should not be tubular. It should be the thickness of the slab,
1/2" thick, and composed of something like asphalt-impregnated fiber, cork,
plastic, or neoprene rubber. These materials are resistant to weathering and
rot, along with being compressible. The joint between the sidewalk and a
building, etc., is called an expansion joint. Depending upon specifications, it
often is not placed between adjacent sidewalk placements to lessen the
potential tipping hazard or the development of lippage if the two slabs settle
differentially. My guess is that the "tubular stuff" that you mention is
backing rod (often called backer rod". Backer rod just will not function properly
in this application.
In addition to the expansion joints, concrete flatwork must have control
joints to deal with the cracks that form from shrinkage. The cracks that form
from shrinkage should be relatively straight and in a designed location both
for appearance and performance. If the locations of the shrinkage cracks are
not controlled, they tend to snake back and forth, often with small, easily
displaced fragments of concrete in the cracked zones. Control joints may be
scored with a grooving tool into the concrete after the initial set . The
groove should be 1/4 of the slab thickness. For a normal 4" thick sidewalk the
cut needs to be 1" deep. Making a 1" cut is hard work. Only walking groovers
tend to make a 1"deep cut. Most hand groovers make a 3/4" or 1/2" cut when
new. In practice, the control joints are almost never cut deep enough. But,
realistically, this never results in a problem for the contractor because
there is no quality control. And, as a practical matter, just about any
relatively deep groove does the job, except those cut with the worn out tools used
by the worn-out masons who achieve high production.
Control joints can also be sawn into sidewalk and other concrete flatwork.
I won't go into that unless you insist, and maybe not even then.
Concrete often cracks for reasons other than shrinkage. It may crack
because the concrete stuck to a building, which then moved, but not as dramatically
as one sees on the Saturday morning cartoons. But, the primary reason
sidewalk concrete cracks is because of structural failure. It is overloaded,
causing compaction of the underlying soil, which even if compacted according to
specifications, is not compacted sufficiently to support truck or car traffic.
Sidewalk concrete cracks extensively when it is driven on by cars and
trucks, instead of the designed light pedestrian loads.
So, whenever you see a delivery truck, a moving truck, or even the careening
taxi cab on the sidewalk, just remember that they are cracking and
destroying the sidewalk. Feel free scream at them. Let us know what you accomplish.
Let me compliment you on using the term concrete instead of cement. But,
remember that concrete is placed, not poured. Milk is poured. So is
slopcrete. Whenever I have a finisher talk to me about "pouring the cement" I
immediately suspect the worst.
In parting, let me say that laying hunks of sidewalk can't be all it's
cracked up to be.
S. J. Stokowski, Jr.
Stone Products Consultants
1058 Sodom Rd., Bldg. 2
Westport, MA 02790
508-881-6364
www.members.aol.com/crushstone/
In a message dated 5/23/2007 5:41:17 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
[log in to unmask] writes:
In New York, sidewalks are typically laid in large hunks, say 20 x 30 all at
one pour, each section separated from the other by that tubular stuff, I
guess for expansion and contraction.
But, within each larger pour, the concrete is invariably scored to produce
imitation "flags" of about 5' x 5'. I dimly recall that the 5' x 5' scoring
is a city requirement, but what is the ultimate thinking behind it? Cracks
seem to ignore the score lines, frequently passing through them without
deviation. The scoring is too shallow to concentrate run-off.
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