August 12, 2018
BBC News Africa


*Pemba, part of the Tanzanian archipelago of Zanzibar, recently held a
week-long festival that revealed cultural influences dating back to the
16th Century when Portugal colonised the Spice Islands, writes Catherine
Tilke.*
[image: Participants performing a martial arts dance]Image copyrightCATHERINE
TILKE

One of the highlights of the Pemba Bonanza Festival is "the kirumbizi", a
dance-cum-martial art, which has its origins in guerrilla training against
Portuguese rule.

Portugal colonised parts of the East African coast in the early 1500s - and
Zanzibar remained part of its empire for about 200 years.

Khamis Ali Juma, from the Pemba museum, says Pujini village - where the
festival was mainly held - was one of the first areas to be settled by the
Portuguese.
[image: Men and women line up and take turns to 'fight' with batons while a
band plays folk music]Image copyrightCATHERINE TILKE

Women also take part in kirumbizi fights, which involve the use of batons
with musicians accompanying the contestants.

Shoka Hamad, one of the event organisers, says that the game is a battle of
strength and endurance.

"When you step into the ring, you take on challengers until you feel tired
- the winner is the person who shows the most endurance," he says.

"The aim isn't to hit or hurt your opponent, but show off your speed and
agility. It's possible that players might get hit, but this isn't the
objective of the dance."

Bulls also feature prominently in the festival.
[image: Bullfighting]Image copyrightCATHERINE TILKE

Bullfighting was introduced by the Portuguese, but it differs from the
Spanish version as the aim is not to kill the animal, but to tire it out
and entertain the crowd.

There is a belief that the spectacle brings rain and a good "mpunga" (rice)
harvest, and so traditionally bullfights are held at times of drought.
[image: Bullfighting]Image copyrightCATHERINE TILKE

There has also been a romantic element to bullfights, with young women
encouraging their lovers to take part to prove their bravery - although
this happens less so these days.

A woman would choose a new kanga (a colourful cloth usually wrapped around
the waist) for the fight and sit on a platform next to the arena to watch.

If her beau got through the fight unscathed, she would give him her kanga
to keep as a trophy.
[image: Short presentational grey line]You may also like:

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   - The crop that put Zanzibar women on top
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   - Bull wrestling for love in Madagascar
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[image: Short presentational grey line]

A donkey procession through many of the island's villages is also an
important part of the festival.
[image: Donkeys riders procession]Image copyrightCATHERINE TILKE

The riders wear traditional dress and carry umbrellas, trotting behind a
brass band.

Donkeys are used for transport and farming and their prominence in the
festival highlights their important role on the island. The umbrellas are
also thought to encourage a good rainy season.
[image: Participants riding donkeys]Image copyrightCATHERINE TILKE

From donkeys to bicycles as cyclists compete in a race from Mkoani, Pemba's
port town, north through the countryside.
[image: The 87km route is gruelling- it climbs the island's highest slope
and takes most competitors over 2 hours to complete]Image copyrightCATHERINE
TILKE

The 87km (54 miles) route is gruelling and riders must climb the island's
highest slope. It takes most competitors more than two hours to complete.

And they are greeted at Vumawimbi beach with much fanfare and dancing.
[image: The cyclists finish at Vumawimbi beach with much fanfare. Here,
women dance dressed in colourful kangas.]Image copyrightCATHERINE TILKE[image:
Alongside, men wearing white kikoi dance to entertain those who turned out
at the finish line]Image copyrightCATHERINE TILKE

The women wear the kangas and the men wear white kikoi (a woven sarong) as
they entertain the crowds at the finish line.

The island's first marathon was also held as part of the festivities.
[image: Runners]Image copyrightCATHERINE TILKE

And wrapping it all up is the "ngalawa" boat race. Ngalawas are traditional
dug-out canoes of Swahili design with sails used by fishermen off Zanzibar.
[image: Wrapping up the festival is an ngalawa boat race. Such boats are a
typical Swahili design- here, a man climbs the mast to unfurl the sail
which, if all goes according to plan, will send his crew gliding into first
place over the finish line.]Image copyrightCATHERINE TILKE

All photos by Catherine Tilke






-- 
Ann Marie

"The art of living consists of knowing what to pay attention to and what to
ignore."  -- Mardy Grothe

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