From one that has been trained in traditional materials conservation as well
as a bureaucrat interpreting the Secretary of the Interior's Standards for
(Restoration, Rehabilitation, Preservation, a lot of different levels of
interpretation), my experience says the Standards are much more reasonable
(and open to interpretation, of course). They call for "inkind replacement"
Now, there are levels of interpreting what "in kind" means. With reason, "in
kind" merely means " replace wood with wood" most of the time. (Honestly and
Simply.) If you're concerned about longevity, then you're not going to use
the cheapest wood (fast growth, etc.)  on the market.understandably. You
will most likely strive for the "best available" (and yes, as somebody said
in this thread, document the fact that you are striving for the best quality
available and how you reached your decision.cost can be a factor but you
don't have to go matching grains.that is totally unreasonable and costly.no
restoration - for museum quality work - or preservation - to keep the
building standing - requires exact match of grain or history.totally
uncalled for and unreasonable. This is the kind of thing that gives historic
preservation a bad name and makes it look expensive.)  I totally admire you
for all the research you've done and the efforts you've taken to reach an
accurate match. You have to realize that many places do not even know what
dendrochronology is.nor do they have access to Ponderosa Pine or any other
good quality wood. Most of society (and we bureaucrats in State Historic
Preservation Offices deal with "most of society" and varying degrees of
abilities to restore or preserve or be educated in any of those realms)
cannot achieve  any level of this good work. You are an artist and the best
trades mind available. Most of us do not (in my case, did not) have access
to the kind of talent and knowledge that you have. Your work is commendable
and absolutely the most perfect level of research to strive for. But my
suggestion is that you take it easy and enjoy what you're doing. You don't
have to achieve perfection. It'll cost you and the property owner dearly.
Most of the time "blending" and "the best available" is as good as it gets. 

 

By the way, as I look at your last question, one of the hardest Standards to
interpret is the one about making new work stand out as new. Architects hate
this standard because it's hard to interpret for a designer and I can easily
say that it's hard to interpret for a bureaucrat. (and this point goes to
your effort to match material exactly). New work should show up as new
work.your wood can vary and achieve compliance with this standard. Just like
an addition onto a historic structure should look new and not like it's been
there historically. (I always call this the "honesty" standard.it's
dishonest to make an addition look historic and like it's been part of the
early history of the property forever.it should read as modern and part of
the evolution.) Now, it shouldn't stand out as totally and unabashedly
different  (stainless steel shiny on to a stone or brick for example.just an
extreme illustration that BPers wouldn't do anyway). Again, as with the
above Standard, it should "blend" with the existing. An addition should have
similar colors and material, window  heights similar, rooflines similar,
etc. etc. (Whole conferences go on for days and days on this subject.I cant
cover it all.) Wood repairs, again, should be the "best available" wood.
Blend but it's ok to read as a repair. That's what it is. And that's the
most honest approach to the repair.

 

 

 

 

 

From: The listserv where the buildings do the talking
[mailto:[log in to unmask]] On Behalf Of Cuyler Page
Sent: Sunday, September 08, 2013 1:21 PM
To: [log in to unmask]
Subject: [BP] A Material Question

 

I am currently working at restoration of the machinery in the Grist Mill at
Keremeos.  http://www.keremeos.com/gristmill/

and http://www.oldgristmill.ca/

 

During the packhorse era here, except for imported iron items most of it was
made of wood, local Ponderoas Pine.   I am now filling in the missing parts,
mostly carpentry.   Since the original was all whipsawn and hand planed, in
the past I purchased rough sawn local lumber with real inch dimensions and
hand planed it for use to match the original in dimmention and finish. 

 

Due to the massive infestation of BC's pine forests by the Pine Bark Beetle
in recent years, no one is cutting pine at this time.   Wood from the dead
pine trees has a blue tinge due the the beetle chemistry, and it has made
local pine lumber unfashionable.   The only mills cutting the pine are using
young uninfested trees that are still white, but they yield nothing larger
than 2x6.    I need 2x8 and larger.

 

At a commercial wood specialist company, I can purchase Eastern White Pine
boards brought here for the furniture industry.   They are already planed to
a fat 7/8" which is close enough to the originals to blend in and I can
distress them enough to give the impression of hand planing buy a master.   

 

They are a bit whiter in colour than the yellowish Ponderosa and the grain
is slightly different.  All wood in the Mill is unfinished.  Since 90% of
the mill is historic original, I made the decision to allow new wood to be
new and old to be old in order to highlight the amazing quantity of original
material present and to showcase the use of traditional tools and skills in
the restoration and the care applied for preservation of the structure.   

 

Dendro ID and dendrochronology was applied to all the original wood parts,
and everything is Ponerosa Pine except for 330 finely carved little paddles
(flights) on a 16' long auger.  Those are Sycamour and are the only
non-local wood bits.  The researcher noted that it was a vartiety commonly
used back east in the 1800s for packing crates.   It carves beautifully,
which a skilled builder of that time might well have known or noticed.   The
Mill's cleaning machine came from Silver Creek, NY near Buffalo.

 

My question is:

Since the available boards are not local Ponderosa Pin and are truly a
modern import, from the perspective of a historic preservationist -
restoration/museum/historic site person who either visits now or cares about
such things 100 years from now, will the use of the White Pine be acceptable
or a disgrace of judgement that will cause desires to replace the stuff to
be more authentic and put my name on a black-list?

 

Cheers,

Cuyler

 

 

 


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