Okay, I read the review, and although I have not read the book, I did read the 
2002 article. A couple of comments:

1) Kolata has her own diet book she's trying to sell, with its own slant, so of 
course she has to disagree or she'll trash her own work.
2) She lauds how he details the history of the low-fat movement as based 
upon failed hypotheses, while at the end her "a calorie is a calorie is a calorie" 
is based upon a single study that is over 50 years old. 
3) She completely ignores the chain reaction in the body that takes place 
when high-glycemic-index foods are eaten, and focuses only on weight-loss, 
which is, in my opinion, not Taubes's own main focus. 
4) She subtly accuses Taubes of leaving out data that might negate his 
arguments, while offering none of her own. 

Poo.
Marianne