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Kathleen O'Neil <[log in to unmask]>
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Kathleen O'Neil <[log in to unmask]>
Date:
Fri, 18 Apr 2008 19:05:59 -0700
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<<Disclaimer: Verify this information before applying it to your situation.>>

Hello all,

Thanks very much to everyone who responded to my request for information on eating GF in Rome and Italy. I just returned earlier this week and had a wonderful trip, in part due to the fabulous food that I ate. Sorry for the delay in summarizing - there's a lot of info!

Here's what I learned from you, and from my own experience:
Italy is a further along in making people aware of Celiac disease, and even has an organization that certifies and lists restaurants and vendors who have been trained in preparing GF food. Many of them also offer a GF menu. I'll give reviews of the ones I tried below. This explains the certification: http://www.celiachia.it/ristoratori/default_eng.asp, and here's the page for restaurants throughout Italy: http://www.celiachia.it/ristoratori/regole_eng.asp 

Rome is in the Lazio region, so that section is here:
http://www.celiachia.it/ristoratori/ristoratori.asp?idregione=8

Here's a site that lists gf pizzerias in Rome:
http://www.dspizzapoint.com/it/dove-trovo-un-ristorante-senza-glutine/30.html#geosearch

And another with shops for gluten-free gelato:
http://www.celiachia.it/gelaterie/gelaterie.asp?idregione=8

It's a good idea to check their websites or call ahead to make sure they're not closed, either permanently or due to their schedule (many are closed Mondays). 

While you'll want to bring some snacks for the plane and when you first arrive, don't bring a lot, because you'll want to stock up on the much better gluten-free products sold in Italy. GF breads, pasta, cookies and other goodies are sold in farmacias (pharmacies), but not usually in grocery stores, since it's considered part of Celiacs' medical treatment. I found that farmacias are on almost every other block, and very well-signed (with a green or red neon plus sign), but the small ones had a very limited selection of GF items, if any. I had great luck at two larger ones that I'll list below - their products are SO much better than in the U.S.  I brought a large shopping bag home full of Giusto, Schar, and NutriFree breads, cupcakes, cookies, croissants, and muesli (and had no problems in customs). NutriFree was one of the best-tasting, sell a box of sliced rye-like bread packaged in 2-slice servings, making it really handy for lunches.

While many Italians in the service industries speak some English, it's a good idea to bring along a card in Italian that explains what gluten-free means, as even some waiters at the listed restaurants may be unfamiliar with it (a free one is at www.celiactravel.com). It's also a good idea to learn certain phrases such as "Io sono celiaco" (I am Celiac) and "Senza glutine" (without gluten), and carry a phrase book to look up food names. 

(I had a funny episode of mis-communication when I asked the waiter, in English, to verify that the chef knew to cook the GF pasta in a seperate pot with fresh water. He somehow took it to mean that I wanted to drink the water that the GF pasta had been cooked in, and to my consternation, proudly brought out a glass of it after serving my pasta... I declined.)

Breakfasts provided by most hotels are continental: breads, ham and cheese, cereals and milk/yogurt and coffee/tea and juice. (The cappuccino is so much better than in the U.S.! I don't even usually drink coffee - don't miss it.) I had the continental breakfast with breads I bought at a farmacia, as well as hot instant quinoa and cold cereal I had brought. For lunches, try an alimentari (a small corner grocery store) or even a supermercato for prepared salads, cheese and meats. 

You don't have to miss out on on dessert. Gelato places that advertise being artisanal (or home-made) are your best bet for finding gluten-free options. I also found several that have gluten-free cones (some had them out on the counter in a container that says "a cone for everyone"; others only brought them out when asked) and then will serve you gelato with fresh spatulas from an untouched area to avoid cross-contamination. Some gelaterias ONLY serve in cups, so you don't have to worry about contamination from glutenous cone crumbs. (I list a few I found below.)

If you'll be in Rome for several days, you might try renting an apartment, since having a kitchen means taking fewer risks at restaurants. One replier recommended this site for rentals: www.initaly.com  

Specific advice from one lister: DON'T think risotto is your solution!!!  The risotto is almost always cooked in the same water as the pasta. (Unless you're at a restaurant with a celiac menu/knowledge.) Sometimes, in normal restaurants they also cook vegetables in pasta water, so ask about it. 

Another lister gave a warning, said that even with her card explaining Celiac in Italian, she had a hard time finding safe food at regular restaurants (she didn't know about the list of ones with Celiac certification): "The only time I had a good experience was when my tour director spoke to the restaurant people---and then they took great care of me!!  When we were on our own, I had a devil of a time with food. I even showed my restaurant card to people who then were willing to let me eat anything, and things were obviously not gluten free!!"

Sites with more anecdotes: Melanie, who has a blog www.wayoftheceliactraveler.blogspot.com has two articles about eating in Italy. Shauna, the Gluten Free Girl, wrote about traveling through Italy on her honeymoon:  http://glutenfreegirl.blogspot.com/2007/10/eating-gluten-free-in-italy.html

Here are my reviews of restaurants I tried in the central Rome area that were on the Italian Celiac Association's site: (http://www.celiachia.it/ristoratori/) Most Italians don't go to dinner until after 8pm; I found that by arriving a little earlier we had more time to talk with the waiters and got better service.

My favorites: 
Il Tulipano Nero in Trastavere (SW Rome), off Piazza San Cosimato, Via Roma Libera 15, 06.5818309. A casual, neighborhood pizzeria and restaurant that has a gluten-free menu, including gluten-free PIZZA!!!, pasta and a British GF beer. The pizza crust was the best I've had - just like the real thing. I went there twice and ordered a pizza to go for the next day's lunch (something that confused my hotel's staff - they apparently don't believe in eating cold pizza there.) Save room for the GF desserts, including tiramisu. 

La Mimosa Fiorita Ristorante, (eastern Rome, near the University and Policlinico Metro) Via Bari 11A, 06-44291958. A nice family-run restaurant with GF pasta, pizza and other offerings - my waiter was also Celiac and took good care of me. There was no official GF menu, but I just described what I wanted and they were very accommodating. I enjoyed the seasonal roasted vegetables a la carte as my antipasti, and they made me some focaccia with pizza dough as my bread. 

Places that were on the list and good (but not great): 
Alex Cafe Ristorante, Via Vittorio Vaneto 20, 06.4823618 (near the Barbarini Metro stop). A fancier place in a glass-enclosed space on the sidewalk, offer a gluten-free menu in English and other languages (they cater more to tourists). The food was good, but not exciting. (This was where I was offered the pasta water from my story above.) 

La Travernetta di Pepi Claudio, Via Sistina 147, 06-4741939 (between Barberini and Spagna Metro stops). No set gluten-free menu, and the waiters I spoke to didn't know what Celiac was, but the manager did and explained it to them. I had a basic, good but unexciting meal of roasted chicken and a vegetable. 

On the list, but I didn't try: 
Miscellanea, Via Della Paste 110 (one block toward Via del Corso from the Pantheon). No GF menu, the owner wasn't there when I came by, and the waiter I spoke with didn't know about Celiac. Only the salads looked safe (it's a pretty Americanized pasta and pizza place.) It advertises itself at a restaurant for American students, so they do speak English well. 

Guilio's Osteria del Crispi, Via Francisco Crispi 19 - was closed, and apparently no longer in business. 

Gelaterias: 
Gelateria Buccianti, Piazza Cavour 18 (near Castel Sant'Angelo) Has GF cones, but said only the fruit flavors were GF (not sure if that was due to potential cross-contamination or ingredients). Liked the raspberry.

Il Gelato di San Crispino, 42 Via Della Panetterra (right around corner from Trevi Fountain). No cones, almost all flavors are GF (so try the chocolate and the hazelnut!) 

Fior di Luna, Via della Lungaretta, 96 (www.fiordiluna.com). Another place without cones, also sells chocolates. 

A gelato place in Piazza Sant Eustachio has the GF cones, but I didn't try their gelato (I didn't write down its name). You should still ask if the gelato is GF, even if they have the cones. I asked at one gelateria on Via dei Serpenti that had GF cones, but they said none of their gelato was safe, since they didn't thoroughly clean the gelato mixer between batches. 

I took a side trip to Siena and found two gelaterias with GF options: Il Gelato, Piazza del Campo 41 and Super Parma, 27 Banchi di Sotto. I also had a great dinner at Osteria Il Ghibellino, Via dei Pellegrini 26 (they have a GF menu). 

Farmacias in Rome with a large, delicious GF selection: 

Farmacia Senato - Corso Rinascimento 50, (next to Piazza Navona) tel. 06 68.803.760. Open 24 hours. Had all the brands I listed above, as well as a fridge/freezer with ravioli, pastas, and all sorts of goodies I couldn't take home. This is where I found the box of NutriFree bread in two-slice servings.

Farmacia Internazionale -Piazza Barberini 49, tel (06 482.5456) The Schar muesli, Giusto  croissants, and the NutriFree Margherita cake (orange flavored) I found here were among the best of the discoveries. I also tried some cupcakes and cookies that were interesting. 

My last bit of advice: if you're going to be there for a few days, buy a Roma pass to save money on museums and Metro/buses: http://www.romapass.it/english/index.html.

Thanks again to everyone for your help. I very much enjoyed Rome, and I hope those of you who are going there do too.  - Kate




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