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A few months ago I posted a query asking if anyone knew of a GF-friendly hotel or bakery in Paris.  Most of the replies I received asked me to summarize my trip, although I also received some very helpful information from the listserv archives and from a few individuals.  I have just returned from two successfully GF weeks in France, including 8 days in Paris; here's a summary of our trip.

Dining Card.  The gluten free dining card I obtained from livingwithout.com was incredibly useful.  With one exception, none of the restaurants we went to were acquainted with gluten intolerance - - every single restaurant, however, carefully read the card and took my situation very seriously - - in 2 situations, the chefs made me special meals that weren't on the menu.  Thank goodness the French are so serious about food! My dining card states that I can't eat buckwheat (sarrasin), which I initially thought was a mistake.  I was told by a French Celiac woman, however, that buckwheat in France is contaminated (up to 5%) with wheat.  This unfortunately eliminates consumption of all those buckwheat crepes.  If I return to France, I will do follow-up on this issue with the French celiac society (e.g. is all buckwheat in France suspect?). The French celiac society is at http://www.afdiag.org/

I have a severe casein intolerance, and must avoid all dairy products except goat cheese (which is much lower in casein). On the back of my dining card I taped the following sentence (I am allergic to dairy products, but I can eat goat cheese):  Je suis allergique aux produits laitiers mais je peux neanmoins manger du fromage de chevre

Our breakfast and Lunch strategy.  Our hotel in the western St. Germain Des Pres (102 euros per night) brought coffee to our room every morning.  We purchased fresh fruit and nuts (there are grocery stores & small markets everywhere in Paris) and ate breakfast in our room.  For lunch, we often had picnics - - or had relatively cheap lunches at cafes (a couple recommendations below).  Take your swiss army knife!

Dinner.  We ate at relatively nice restaurants every evening (dinner for two with wine between 45 and 90 euros); budget dinners are a challenge unless you focus on cafes (or have picnics).

Paris Restaurants.  I suspect that virtually all Paris restaurants will accommodate our needs - but here are my favorites (organized by neighborhood or arrondissements - which are the last 2 numbers in the zip code)

Latin Quarter (05).

My number #1 recommendation:  Le Reminet (3 rue des Grands-Degres; tel 01 44 07 04 25) closed Mon, Tues, book in advance or arrive shortly after the 7:30 opening.  The restaurant is run by Anna (who has CD and speaks English very well) and her husband the chef. We ate here twice. Near Notre Dame.

Chez Jaafar Restaurant, 22 rue du Sommerard, 0146339540.  A Tunisian restaurant that is very small and reasonably priced.  Most of the menu focused on couscous (which we can't eat)  but I had a lamb turine that was divine.  Near the Luxembourg Gardens.


Marais (04 and 03).

Chez Marianne, 2 rue des Hospitalieres Saint Gervais. Mid-eastern food. A few minutes southwest of the Picasso Museum.

Page 35.  4 Rue du Parc Royale, 75004.  I had a splendid lunch in this small café - the Antiboise salad (freshly cooked white fish on top of a beautiful salad). Very close to the Picasso Museum.

Saint Germain des Pres (06 and 07).

Yugaraj. 14 Rue Dauphone, 75006.  This is considered by many to be the best Indian restaurant in Paris, and was our most expensive dinner (90 euros without wine!).  Amazingly delicious and without question the best Indian food I have ever had in my life.  Near the Louvre.

A La Petite Chiase, 36 rue de Grenelle (restarant was founded in 1680!).  I had a warm leek salad and cod on rice. 

Guisarde Street, just north of St. Sulpice church. This short street has over 10 different restaurants, most of which have English menus. There were a lot of Americans dining in this area.  We ate at La Bastide d'Opio, 9 rue Guissard.  The chef made me a special white fish dish on top of grilled vegetables (with a salad).  

Stores that offer GF packaged foods:

La Vie Claire - chain stores found throughout Paris

Monoprix - chain stores found throughout Paris

Naturalia (I found one in the Marais District, and one in Montmartre on rue Lepic across from a house that van Gogh lived in for one year (at #54). 

Rendez-vous de la Nature - health food store at 96 rue Mouffetart in the 5th. tel 01 43 36 59 34

One other grocery store recommendation:

The Bon Marche department store near the Babylon metro stop (at Rue de Sevres and Rue du Bac) has its own food store across the street.  It's the only time I saw a grocery store in Paris that looked like Whole Foods.  They did *not* have gluten free bread products, but we did a lot of our picnic shopping here.  We bought Sushi, GF chocolate bars, ham, whole grain French bread (for my diabetic partner), fruits and vegetables.


I hope this information is helpful.  Please feel free to contact me if you have questions.  We loved the Rick Steves' Paris book, and also loved the Fat Tire Bike Tour of Paris (no, I am not affiliated with either organization!).

Laurie in Seattle

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