There are lots of nice choices in wood moldings from Dykes Lumber (and many
others too).

Cork will telegraph EVERY bump and seam from the subfloor. You can feather
out transitions but I would extend it out as far as you can, say 1/8" out
over 4 ft (2 ft min). You will need to do a very good dash patch job and
make sure it is portland cement based dash, NOT gypsum. It is a bit nerve
racking cause no matter how good a d.p. job you do, you won't really know
how good it is until the day after you lay the tile and you can survey your
work.

Good luck!

(believe it or not, my phone numbers are holding)




Eric Hammarberg
Associate Director of Preservation
Associate
LZA Technology
641 Avenue of the Americas
New York, NY 10011-2014
Telephone: 917.661.8160 (Direct)
Mobile: 917.439.3537
Fax: 917.661.8161 (Direct)
email:  [log in to unmask]



-----Original Message-----
From: Met History [mailto:[log in to unmask]]
Sent: Monday, October 28, 2002 5:52 PM
To: [log in to unmask]
Subject: Re: cork floors


Eric, you read my mind.  I want to take out the crappy thinset vinyl tile c.
1995 and put in cork - and do it myself.

#1  What's a nice looking baseboard moulding, instead of the cruddy rubber
stuff?

#2  What's the "bridge effect" of real cork flooring.  I have a slightly
lumpy subfloor - 2 parts nice smooth concrete, one part old maple strip
flooring.  There is a grade change - maybe 1/8"? - from the removal of an
intermediate wall separating these two floors, when I combined the old
maid's room with the kitchen.  The old tile made it OK, although after a few
years you could see some cracks.     Christopher Gray  PS What's your new
phone #???

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