> -----Original Message-----
> From: BP - "BullaPinmankaheaders"
> [mailto:[log in to unmask]] On Behalf Of Dan
> Becker
> Sent: November 15, 1999 4:26 PM
> To: [log in to unmask]
> Subject: Re: Tung Oil/sTICKLEY Finish
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: BP - "BullaPinmankaheaders" On Behalf Of J.A. Drew Diaz
> > Sent: November 15, 1999 12:57 PM
> > To: [log in to unmask]
> > Subject: Re: Tung Oil/sTICKLEY Finish
> >
> > I thought w/ stickley you went from fuming to wax w/out the oil step.
>
>
> Nope.  I have some stuff at home from Stickley's writings that relates his
> methodologies.  I'll try to remember to find it and will post.

Well, neither of us is dead on, but you are closer.  I knew stuff happened
between fuming and wax.  In Stickley's words:

"Some pieces fume much darker than others, according to the amount of tannin
left free to attract the ammonia after the wood has been kiln-dried.  Where
any sapwood had been left on, that part will be found unaffected by the
fumes.  To meet these conditions, it is necessary to make a 'touch-up' to
even up the color.  This is done by mixing Vandyke brown, ground in Japan,
with German lacquer, commonly known as 'banana liquid,' and adding a very
little lampblack, also ground in Japan.  The mixture may be thinned with
wood alcohol to the right consistency for use, and the color of the piece to
be touched up will decide the proportion of black to be added to the brown.
In touching up the lighter portions of the wood, the stain may be smoothly
blended with the dark tint of the perfectly fumed parts by rubbing along the
line where they join with a piece of soft, dry cheesecloth, closely
following the brush.  If the stain should dry too fast and the color is left
uneven, dampen the cloth slightly with alcohol.

"After fuming, sandpapering and touching up a piece of furniture, apply a
coat of lacquer made of one-third white shellac and two-thirds German
lacquer.  If the fuming process has resulted in a shade dark enough to be
satisfactory, this lacquer may be applied clear, if not, it may be darkened
by the addition of a small quantity of the stain used in touching up.  Care
must be taken, however, not to add enough color to show laps and brushmarks.
The danger of this makes it often more advisable to apply two coats of
lacquer, each containing a very little color.  If this is done, sandpaper
each coat with very fine sandpaper after it is thoroughly dry, and then
apply one or more coats of prepared floor wax.  These directions, if
carefully followed, should give the same effects that characterize the
Craftsman furniture."

The color of my fumed oak was a rather cold grey-brown.  I found that the
application of tung oil darkens it and brings out the characteristic warm
brown I desired.  And then I don't need to wax it, or at least I don't plan
to.  Over time, I expect it will continue to warm and darken, and additional
coats of tung oil can be applied as necessary when it begins to dry a bit.
____________________________________________________
Dan Becker,  Executive Director        "What's this? Fan mail
Raleigh Historic                                 from some Cod?"
Districts Commission                         - With apologies to
[log in to unmask]                                Bullwinkle Gee Moose