assuming that your also going to be putting down a finished floor,
and also considering that 75-85% of the basement work that we have done in the past three years has had dri-core (24x24 panels T&G) and pre-finished flooring installed a s a finished floor....
a double bottom plate attached directly to the concrete with tapcon screws has been the simplest option. I leave a 1 inch space away from exterior walls and prefab my wall partitions a little small and shim to the top plate/ floor joist. I also wrap the back of all of these partitions with Dow styrofoam house wrap or 3/4 styrofoam T&G panels. I might be a little lumber heavy, but we also insulate all partitions for heating/ cooling issues, and cover all wall surfaces with 1/2 inch osb sheathing. Considering all of the things that you might want to hang or build onto these walls, for 20 cents/ ft extra for osb....the finished product is well built. Sorry to get carried away beyond the original question.....
PS I also put a bead of PL2000 under the plate and use PT plates.
The dri-cor is a vapor barrier and allows the concrete to breath.
---- Rudy R Christian <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
> Eric,
>
>
>
> Good point about moisture in the slab. If the bottom plate isn't treated
> lumber, there should be a moisture barrier. Flex-L seems to be the most
> readily available rigid sill sealer, but I prefer the Homasote product
> that's made from recycled paper products. It's odorless and won't leach out
> any resins like Flex-L has a tendency to do.
>
>
>
> Rudy
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: The listserv where the buildings do the talking
> [mailto:[log in to unmask]] On Behalf Of Hammarberg,
> Eric
> Sent: Tuesday, November 17, 2009 9:19 AM
> To: [log in to unmask]
> Subject: Re: [BP] Basement partitions
>
>
>
> I would probably use cut masonry nails thru the sole plate between the studs
> then shim along the top plate and spike into the joists above. I would be
> concerned the adhesive would not bond well to the concrete if there is
> dusting and/or further moisture drive thru the concrete leading to
> debonding.
> Thanks,
>
> Eric Hammarberg, Assoc. AIA
> Vice President
> Thornton Tomasetti
> 51 Madison Avenue
> New York, NY 10010
> T 917.661.7800 F 917.661.7801
> D 917.661.8160
> [log in to unmask]
> www.ThorntonTomasetti.com
>
> This message was sent from my PDA, please excuse misspellings or similar
> mistakes.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: The listserv where the buildings do the talking
> <[log in to unmask]>
> To: [log in to unmask]
> <[log in to unmask]>
> Sent: Tue Nov 17 08:58:11 2009
> Subject: [BP] Basement partitions
>
> We continue with the ongoing saga of my 900-square foot 1953 ranch
> house in Ann Arbor, Michigan.
>
> In our last episode, we found that the CMU basement walls were moving
> slowly inward, presumably due to clay soil and failure of footing
> drains. Contractors proposed to dig a trench along the inside of the
> basement walls to put in new footing drains, as well as vertical 4"
> I-beams to inhibit the walls from moving.
>
> Pinheads agreed that this would be a whole lot better than nothing.
>
> Okay, so we had the basement guys come in, and they did all that.
> They also repoured concrete floor around the edges of the basement,
> and installed a sump pump.
>
> The basement even *feels* dryer now. So, naturally, I'd like to put
> it to more use.
>
> Specifically, I'd like to put in some partition walls.
>
> The existing partitions in the basement (sides of the stairs, around
> the bathroom, around the laundry/furnace room) are 2x4 framing with
> old knotty pine paneling nailed to one side.
>
> I figure, I'm about as good at putting in some simple 2x4 wall framing
> as the next half-assed homeowner.
>
> But I'm wondering about how to attach the plates to the concrete basement
> floor.
>
> Drill into the concrete? Gravity? Adhesive?
>
> How would *you* do it?
>
> Larry
>
> ---
> Lawrence Kestenbaum, [log in to unmask]
> Washtenaw County Clerk & Register of Deeds, http://ewashtenaw.org
> The Political Graveyard, http://politicalgraveyard.com
> P.O. Box 2563, Ann Arbor, MI 48106
>
> --
> To terminate puerile preservation prattling among pals and the
> uncoffee-ed, or to change your settings, go to:
> <http://listserv.icors.org/archives/bullamanka-pinheads.html>
>
>
> --
> To terminate puerile preservation prattling among pals and the
> uncoffee-ed, or to change your settings, go to:
> <http://listserv.icors.org/archives/bullamanka-pinheads.html>
--
To terminate puerile preservation prattling among pals and the
uncoffee-ed, or to change your settings, go to:
<http://listserv.icors.org/archives/bullamanka-pinheads.html>
|
