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From:
Buddy Brannan <[log in to unmask]>
Reply To:
Blind-Hams For blind ham radio operators <[log in to unmask]>
Date:
Mon, 9 Feb 2004 10:42:48 -0500
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[Continued from previous post]
 Now, KX1 first impressions. Mine's going back for a bit of a tune-up,
 but I've gotten to really put it through its paces and really get to
 know the interface. For a radio with only three push-buttons (well,
 counting the tuning knob, that's four), it's surprisingly easy to
 operate. The two-button combinations are two-button hold functions,
 and you don't accidentally activate a function on only one button
 quite so easily as is done on the K2. (More on that in a future note,
 where I'll want to discuss the K2, once I get my KRC2 back and all.)

 It isn't clear from the description how the radio is laid out, so here
 it is. The front panel is really the top panel, as all operating
 controls are top-mounted. On the left side of the radio's top cover,
 youll find a small window for the LED display, and directly below that
 are three push-buttons: from left to right, "Menu", "Band", and
 "RIT". Below these, on the front edge of the top panel, are two small
 slide switches. The left switch turns the log lamp LED on (this is on
 the front panel, left side); the right switch is the power switch. To
 the right of the display, sort of in the middle of the top
 panel, is the tuning knob, and to the right of that, vertically along
 the right edge, are three small knobs. From back to front, they are RF
 gain, crystal filter bandwidth, and AF gain. The back panel of the
 radio is completely empty; the power jack (standard coaxial power
 jack, same as on the K2 and other QRP rigs) is on the left panel
 towards the back. The BNC antenna jack is on the right panel towards
 the back, and the headphone jack is also on the right panel, in front
 of the BNC antenna jack. The key jack is on the front of the radio--aa
 1/8" stereo jack. It's set up to accept the accessory keyer paddle
 that attaches directly to the radio, but you can use your own, as I'm
 doing.

 Operation is simple, once you take a brief look at the operation
 section of the manual. If you don't, you'll probably be a little
 lost. I'll hit the highlights here. If you want the cw output feature
 on, hold down one of the three push-buttons while you turn the power
 switch on by pushing it away from you (towards the back of the
 radio). The three buttons turn the log lamp on its brightest setting
 and turn the cw readout on at either 10, 20, or 30 WPM from left to
 right. That is; holding down menu turns the cw feedback to 10 WPM; the
 band button sets it at 20, and the RIT button sets it at 30. This
 setting will persist until changed either in the menu or at the next
 powerup/button-press combination. Turning on the radio, you'll hear
 the current operating frequency. Spin the tuning knob---it acts about
 as you'd expect. If you push down on the tuning knob (just tap it),
 you'll change your tuning step size: a low beep is the slow setting
 (10 hz, I think) and a high beep is the faster setting (100 hz);
 holding the knob in will set it to a very fast 1 KHz step size. (The
 fast setting in the USB or LSB receive mode sets the step size to 5
 KHz instead of 1 KHz--very handy for shortwave listening!)

 Pressing the band button will read the current operating frequency. If
 you tap it twice, you'll switch to the next band and that band's
 current frequency will be announced. Holding the band button will
 allow you to change the keyer speed with the tuning knob. The RIT
 button toggles the tuning knob from main tuning to RIT tuning, and of
 course the menu button puts you into the configuration menu. You'll
 definitely need to keep a cheat sheet of the menu abbreviations handy;
 however, within a short amount of time you'll get to know what the
 abbreviations mean and should be able to adjust things easily
 enough. (Adjustments are generally made with the tuning knob, which is
 also used to scroll through the menu itself.)

 Literally everything is read back on the cw readout, or can be caused
 to read out. Frequency of course is easy to get. When tuning with the
 automatic tuner, once it's gone through its range and found a match,
 you'll hear your power output; when you press a button to turn the
 transmitter off tune and back onto receive, you'll hear your current
 SWR. (For instance, when tuning is finished, you may hear "P4R0"
 (Power 4.0 watts--the decimal is an R, the 0 is a long dah), then when
 a button is pressed to stop the tuning process, you'll hear, say, R1R3
 (SWR 1.3:1...of course, the bottom number's always 1, so you don't
 need to hear it!)) You can even hear your current power supply
 voltage, although I don't recommend leaving this on--it's *very*
 talkative. And the signal display mode is very handy--you get a tick
 every few steps and a frequency readout every so often, useful in a
 fashion not unlike the marker generators found in older receivers. As
 I said before, all menu parameters are read and can be adjusted easily
 eyes-free as well. The readout speed can be adjusted from 10 to 40 WPM
 from the menu. I run mine at about 30, which is comfortable for me,
 and the information I get from the readout is concise and
 complete. Once you get used to hearing things read out to you in cw
 with long dahs for zero and R for the decimal point, it's really quite
 nice! I'd love to see a readout this complete built into all of
 Elecraft's future offerings.

 Of course, there are other features--like the ability to change the
 buttons into buttons to send code; shortwave broadcast receiver
 coverage; it runs on batteries. But I think I've covered the
 accessibility features fairly completely here. One thing I would say
 though is that the sidetone on my unit seems loud as compared to the
 receiver itself, even at the lowest setting. Still, that's a pretty
 minor complaint. Oh yes, be sure to use high-quality sensitive
 earphones or ear buds. And don't be alarmed that you have to crank the
 volume up pretty high, like all the way or nearly so--remember that
 this radio's optomized for low current drain and you're just not going
 to get a ton of audio and aren't meant to...which is why you won't
 find a built-in speaker.

 Let me know if I've missed anything important, or if you have any
 questions or need clarification. And...Wayne (N6KR), please feel free
 to weigh in on this as the proud papa :)
 --
 Buddy Brannan, KB5ELV
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