Mark is on the right track for dealing with this object. I am a little
surprised by the level of purposeful damage some of us BP'ers want to
inflict on an old object. The idea that removal is the first best course
of action is a bit of a remodeling attitude. It reminded me of the
presentation by the "This Old House" guy at IPTW-97. He showed slides of
nice old buildings that they were about to "restore" and then processed
to show how they removed anything and everything that was old and
replaced it with new stuff that sort of, kind of, mimicked what had kind
of, sort of, been there before. Remodeling works with the idea that 'if
in doubt, tear it out'. Historic work is not the work for demolition
teams. Before removal, options should be considered that would arrest
the state of the object in its current conditions. If actions can also
be under taken that would improve the long term stability of the object
these should be considered. Dealing with this object, that is no longer
in use and is now a shadow of its former self, is not the same as
dealing with something that is still being actively used for its
original purpose. The anchor is now an ornament. We could just as easily
been reviewing an old iron wagon wheel holding up the mailbox, or an old
set of mill stones as the front yard planter. In these situations, the
objects will not be stressed in the same way they would be if they were
still in use. It gives us an opportunity to look at them in a different
way and to learn things that items in use would not allow. The knowledge
will however be useful in daling with the old items that are still in
use. The sceince of material conservation is fascinating when dealing
with a hands-on situation. Isn't it a question of locking up those free
electrons to keep them from running around and changing materials from
"A" to "B" such as iron to rust.

OK You, Drop that grinder and hands up.

Bryan

=======
Mark Rabinowitz wrote:
>
> Do not take such an aggressive path.  It should be feasible to stabilize
> some if not all of the historic material.  An objects conservator,
> particularly one familiar with immersed objects, should be able to help.
>
> Rusted iron can be stabilized with tannic acid (rust converter) which will
> produce a rather attractive black skin.  It only converts iron oxide so do
> not remove the rust.  I have tried it on exterior iron without further
> coating and it held up pretty well just by itself over the test run of 3
> years.  If further coated with wax it might last longer but much will depend
> on environmental conditions.  It will not re-adhere flaking iron or the
> cubist-like deep fractured rust formations that sea immersion can cause on
> wrought iron.   Re-adhesion of the particles with adhesives prior to
> conversion might be called for.
>
> Saturated wood can be treated with polyethyl glycol (PEG) which will form a
> superficial skin within the wood, locking the moisture within it and
> stopping desiccation.  It requires submerging the wood in a bath for some
> period of days.  You have to build a bath around the piece and weight in so
> that it remains under the solution.
>
> I will forward your request to the AIC object specialty groups listserv for
> further suggestions.
>
> Mark
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Davidson <[log in to unmask]>
> To: [log in to unmask]
> <[log in to unmask]>
> Date: Sunday, September 12, 1999 4:14 PM
> Subject: Re: anchor preservation
>
> >a friend of mine who shall remain nameless ; asked me aboard his 52 foot
> >fishing boat; to fish the coasts and rips of Nantucket; and sallie the
> shore
> >for the late night parties at the salons of dowager Nasdaq queens for blue
> >claw crabmeat on on small toasts; with splits of champagne;
> >it was there whilst boasting of my good fortune of taking on blues and
> >strippers that I was engaged in conservation regarding the preservation of
> a
> >large magnificent early anchor of the industrial revolution.
> > The anchor is of the large hook type;and it was taken some months ago from
> >the deep clam shoals nr Martha's Vineyard.It is some 20 ft in height and is
> >about 20 inches in diameter at its narrow; it is estimated to be 150 to 200
> >yrs old. Conditions are such that it is now gracing the manicured lawn of
> an
> >neighbor who bought it from the clammer for a princely sum;
> > it has since fallen on the hard times of neglect; and is failing at a
> >miserable rate. conditions are such the rust is a 1/4 inch thick; and the
> >massive oak surrounding it is splitting badly; and meybe lost entirely if
> >action is not taken; Being a erstwhile member of the pinheads; I like to
> >think I know stone; my mastrey of metal is something else again;
> >and the owner asked me to come up with a simple plan to arrest the
> situation;
> >and due to his kind generoisty on other matters I said I would try to
> oblige
> >him ; through  my fellow lodge members .... fellow pinheads;
> > do we  1. grind off all rust? and paint black in rust perventative; and
> soak
> >the oak in oil?        while failed banding is replaced to match the
> >orginal?. I feel that this is radical but I have suggested nothing...any
> >suggestions?
> >..he is looking for solutions he can do on site...ps I can get mail on the
> >road but will be unable to send any for a week as Im on my way to  Nebraska
> >many thanks...Best Michael