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Sender:
"Chapel of the unPowered nailers." <[log in to unmask]>
Subject:
From:
"Cubberly, Donna R (Donna)" <[log in to unmask]>
Date:
Tue, 9 Jan 2001 15:19:38 -0500
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Reply-To:
"Chapel of the unPowered nailers." <[log in to unmask]>
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By the way, so far I have been pretty successful in achieving nice tight
corner joints and I am also using copper finishing nails (purchased over the
Internet at [log in to unmask]) which, to the naked eye, match the
color of the cedar nearly exactly.  Even though there are potential issues
with the cedar extractives reacting with the copper, for an inside
application I was willing to take the chance.  Looks pretty nice so far.
Now if I can only find an aesthetically compatible filler, I'd be all set in
this particular room.....

> ----------
> From:         Cubberly, Donna R (Donna)
> Sent:         Tuesday, January 09, 2001 2:54 PM
> To:   [log in to unmask]
> Subject:      RE: Western Red Cedar Crown Molding
>
> Thank you for your response.  Yes, previously I had lap cut crown molding
> for another house.  Problem with this house is that the room is radically
> out of square and it seemed easier to patch than to play around with the
> variety of angles that would be involved in getting sections to mate
> perfectly.   At $6.53 per linear foot over a 72-foot linear distance, the
> material cost is at a premium.
>       ----------
>       From:   JRhodes[SMTP:[log in to unmask]]
>       Reply To:       Chapel of the unPowered nailers.
>       Sent:   Tuesday, January 09, 2001 2:37 PM
>       To:     [log in to unmask]
>       Subject:        Re: Western Red Cedar Crown Molding
>
>       Re Donna R. Cubberly's "product available that could be used to fill
>       in the smal gaps created by butt-joining western red cedar crown
>       molding around the ceiling of a living room"
>
>       The traditional trick is to not cut the molding square butted, but
>       lapped on a 45 degree angle, and nailed thru the lap.  Even if the
>       joint opens up a bit you don't see a dark gap through the pieces.
>       Outside corners are customarily miter cut, inside corners coped, not
>       miter cut (that's the tricky part because you often have to undercut
>       the coped piece without disturbing the coped line.  I've used this
>       technique on wood and in cutting pressed metal moldings around "tin"
>       ceilings, and with neat work, looks pretty good even after quite a
>       few years of settling in.  As for blending with western red cedar,
>       you may have to stain up your own filler, experimenting until you
> get
>       a decent match.
>
>       Tell us how it comes out.
>
>       Rev. Jim
>
>

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