Very interesting idea on the cocktail straws. I'll have
to try that to see if it helps. I always found you could feel
the solder melt by resting the end of it against the object
being soldered. It is possible to feel the solder soften as it
melts which is a different feeling than what it is like if it
just slips off.
A good idea is to pull the solder back away as soon as
you feel it give. Hold the heat on the joint for a second or two after
withdrawing the solder. That will vaporize the flux and make it
less likely to create a cold solder joint.
Also, if you run your fingernail over the new joint and
it feels rough or sticky, you have probably not applied enough
heat.
It should feel sort of glass-like under your fingernail.
I use a Weller duel-temperature gun for big stuff like
Coax fittings, etc and a Wahl cordless gun for the small things
such as components on a circuit board or home projects using
Vector Board.
It would be nice to find some gloves similar to cotton
gloves but made out of something that doesn't burn or melt. One
could then briefly touch the hot tip of a soldering or
desoldering tool without burning the fingers.
I actually tried this once with cotton gloves and it
worked until I burned a hole in the glove.
Martin
Mark Torgerson writes:
> Hi Tom,
>
> Actually, a person does melt a little of the straw in the process. It may
> take several straws to do a project. In the original article I read, they
> used a stainless steel tube. Not having one of those, I bought a box of
> those thin straws instead. I figured that at the price of straws, I could
> use several and stil be OK.
>
> God bless,
> REV. Mark ULC
>
>
>
> --
> Currently in Rockford, Greater Rockford, Illinois Clear,
> 35.1A^DEGF(1.7A^DEGC)
> Wind:Calm
> My friend, why have you drifted so far away? All motion is relative, maybe
> it is you who have moved away by standing still.
> Created by Weather Signature v1.5 a^?-c- http://www.tropicdesigns.net
> Learn How To Repair Your Computer Today:
> http://9e500a1fuclixhs57dpg4zaz3c.hop.clickbank.net/?tid=4F08AB94207A08B5FC830E011
> My website: http://www.christiantraditions.info
> The Blind Computer People List: >
> http://christiantraditions.info/mailman/listinfo/blindcomputerpeople_christiantraditions.info
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tom Behler
> Sent: Saturday, October 25, 2014 5:57 PM
> To: [log in to unmask]
> Subject: Re: Has anyone here ever built a project from QST?
>
> Mark:
>
> I like your idea of using the straw as a guide. But, perhaps I'm =
> missing something here. ... How do you perform this approach without =
> melting the straw?
>
> Tom Behler: KB8TYJ
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: For blind ham radio operators =
> [mailto:[log in to unmask]] On Behalf Of Mark Torgerson
> Sent: Saturday, October 25, 2014 12:07 PM
> To: [log in to unmask]
> Subject: Re: Has anyone here ever built a project from QST?
>
> Hi Doug,
>
> Well, on soldering, I lived in fear of the soldering iron for a number =
> of years. My late sister AA0CU did all my soldering for me. We did =
> tackle the occasional project from qst as well as normal ham things like =
> coax ends.=20
> Then, one day after visiting with the guys on this list I asked the same =
> question you just did. How does a blind person solder. The fine folks on =
> the list pointed me to some online resources that helped allot. they =
> were quite detailed as well. I will give you the information on what I =
> do to solder.=20
> However, I should let you know that often during a soldering job, I burn =
> 2 or 3 fingers.
>
> First, get the solder with the lowest melting point you can. This makes =
> it easier because you can use the iron for a shorter period of time.
> Next, get some of those skinny straws like they use in cocktails.
> Slide the solder down the center of the straw. This allows you to place =
> the solder right on the solder joint and yet keep your fingers a few =
> inches away.
> Prepare your solder joint/connection, and place the solder in position =
> on it.
> Carefully yet quickly slide the solder iron down the last inch or so of =
> the straw until you feel the end touch the solder joint.
> Count 1, 2, 3. Then, remove the iron.
> If all went well, you should have a soldered connection. If not, well, =
> practice makes perfect they say. To be honest I ran through the process =
> a number of times with a cold iron before trying it with the heat on.
>
> Be careful, have fun, and watch out for those fingers.
>
> God bless,
> Mark (WZ0K)
>
> --
> Currently in Rockford, Greater Rockford, Illinois Clear, Haze =
> 62.1=C3=82=C2=B0F(16.7=C3=82=C2=B0C) Wind:NW (310=C3=82=C2=B0) at 14mph =
> (12KT) Getting old is wonderful, when you consider the alternative.
> Created by Weather Signature v1.5 =C3=A2=E2=82=AC=C2=A2 =
> http://www.tropicdesigns.net Learn How To Repair Your Computer Today:=20
> http://9e500a1fuclixhs57dpg4zaz3c.hop.clickbank.net/?tid=3D4F08AB94207A08=
> B5FC830E011
> My website: http://www.christiantraditions.info
> The Blind Computer People List: >
> http://christiantraditions.info/mailman/listinfo/blindcomputerpeople_chri=
> stiantraditions.info
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Doug Payne
> Sent: Saturday, October 25, 2014 10:28 AM
> To: [log in to unmask]
> Subject: Re: Has anyone here ever built a project from QST?
>
> Steve (and others),
>
> How did you manage the soldering?
>
> Please don't think my question is mocking--I really don't know how to do =
> this without being able to see.
>
> I hope everyone has fun in the DX contest this weekend.
>
> Doug
> AC7T
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: For blind ham radio operators =
> [mailto:[log in to unmask]]
> On Behalf Of Steve Forst
> Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2014 6:44 PM
> To: [log in to unmask]
> Subject: Re: Has anyone here ever built a project from QST?
>
> Good description Colin. I started with an old MFJ TNC to radio
> interface box for a long gone TNC. A small metal box with 8 pin male
> jack on front and cables with 13 pin din and 8 pin female microphone
> plug, out the rear of the box.
>
> I removed the 13 pin din cable for some future project, and pulled out =
> the internal pc board and other unneeded junk.
>
> Since my Heil Gold line as well as my headphones all use 1/8 plugs, I =
> didn't use the front panel mic jack, but instead wired a 1/8 jack on =
> the rear of the box for the microphone. Added a RCA jack to the rear of =
> the box, wired to the ptt line, to plug in my foot and hand PTT =
> switches.
>
> Lot's of point to point wiring and a real rat's nest in there, but it
> works. A total of 6 switches: 4 extra pf keys and also the up/down
> buttons which are usually reassigned as pf keys.
>
> I may redo this sometime in the future, in a larger box, with a few more =
> things going in and out.
>
> 73, Steve KW3A
>
>
> On 10/23/2014 9:22 PM, Colin McDonald wrote:
> > Here is what I did:
> > I chopped the plug end off the stock hand mike that came with my=20
> > radio...there was about 3 or 4 inches of straight cable before it=20
> > started to coil, and I chopped it off right where it started to coil.
> > I found the kenwood standard 8 pin microphone jack pin out description =
>
> > on line so I knew which pins were for what.
> > I then went to an electronics store and got a project box, an 8=20
> > terminal phone connection strip where there are 8 sets of 2 connected=20
> > terminals...the terminal strip is almost exactly as long as the bottom =
>
> > plate of the project box...so I used some glue to secure it in place.
> > I got 4 momentary mini switches, and a roll of 47K and 100K=20
> > resisters...the wattage doesn't mattter with these, just find the=20
> > smallest ones you can. In fact, a commercial version of this box=20
> > could use surface mount resisters and flat push buttons and put it all =
>
> > into a very small compact package using one small PCB.
> > In my case, I wanted to use a standard studio style microphone, so I=20
> > used a piece of mike cable with an XLR female on one end as the=20
> > microphone pig tail.
> > I stripped the wires on the original piece of stock mike cable and=20
> > connected them in an order I'd remember to one side of the 8 terminal=20
> > bus
> bar.
> > I have a continuity meter, so armed with the pin out description, I=20
> > could determine which pins were for what function and their associated
> wires.
> > I drilled the appropriate holes in the project box to mount the=20
> > switches, and to let the microphone hookup cable out and the cable to=20
> > the radio out the other side...I also added a 6 foot piece of 18 gage=20
> > regular speaker wire to hook up to a remote PTT foot switch.
> > I have always meant to mount a proper xlr male jack on the box along=20
> > with a 1/8th inch jack for the PTT switch, but never got around to=20
> > it...I also had thoughts of mounting a male 8 pin kenwood style mike=20
> > connecter and having a custom 8 pin female to 8pin female cable made=20
> > up to go from the box to the radio...
> > Anyway, in the simplest terms, you switch the up pin to ground through =
>
> > a 47/22K or 100K resister, and the same with the down pin to get your =
>
> > four functions...with a bigger box and more switches, I could add both =
>
> > the regular up/down functions along with a PTT switch...but again,=20
> > this was an experiment and a project and i haven't gotten around to=20
> > building the deluxe version of the box like Steve did.
> > The only soldering I had to do was one end of the resister to each=20
> > switch I don't recall now what order the PF functions are in acording=20
> > to which resister you are grounding the up or down pin to...but it's=20
> > pretty self explanitory once you build it.
> > You can even add power to the box for powered microphones etc from one =
>
> > of the mike jack pins.
> > I'm surprised LDG, or MFJ hasn't come out with a commercial version of =
>
> > this box...there are allot of different break out boxes for use with=20
> > studio microphones and equalizers and all that kind of stuff, but I=20
> > haven't heard of any made with the four function switches added on.
> > To add proper jacks to the box, you would have to solder wires onto=20
> > them and connect to the terminal bar...sometimes those little bulk=20
> > head style jacks are tedious and difficult to solder, especially the 8 =
>
> > pin variety as I've tried several times.
> > Anyway, fire away with any questions and I'll try to answer them or=20
> > Steve can answer them since he's built it as well from my description.
> >
> > 73
> > Colin, V A6BKX
> > --------------------------------------------------
> > From: "Howard, W A 9 Y B W" <[log in to unmask]>
> > Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2014 1:04 PM
> > To: <[log in to unmask]>
> > Subject: Re: Has anyone here ever built a project from QST?
> >
> >> In regard to this box built for use with the Kenwood 590, I realize=20
> >> that one needs to access three connections on the microphone socket.
> >>
> >> How does one do that with a microphone connected to the radio?
> >>
> >> Howard #3
> >>
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: "Steve Forst" <[log in to unmask]>
> >> To: <[log in to unmask]>
> >> Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2014 1:02 PM
> >> Subject: Re: Has anyone here ever built a project from QST?
> >>
> >>
> >>> John,
> >>>
> >>> Sorry, but no. To get more pf keys for the 2000 you need to build =
> a
> >>> box, or find a microphone with the 4 extra pf buttons that can be=20
> >>> assigned in menus. The ability to reassign the up/down buttons as=20
> >>> pf keys didn't come along until the 590.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> 73, Steve KW3A
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> On 10/23/2014 1:54 PM, John J Jacques wrote:
> >>>> Hi all, is there a way to re-assign the up / down buttons on the=20
> >>>> mic of the TS2000 for other functions? I know the PF key on the=20
> >>>> radio can be re-assigned, but not sure about the mic buttons!
> >>>>
> >>>> Thanks in advanced, and 73:
> >>>> John
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> John Jacques
> >>>> Amateur Radio Station: KD8PC
> >>>> "Whare Cat Is, Is civilization!"
> >>>> Robert A Heinlein
> >>>> http://www.johnjacques.weebly.com
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>
> >>
> >> ---
> >> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus=20
> >> protection is active.
> >> http://www.avast.com
> >
> >
> >=20
>
>
|
