My crate was purchased for $3.98 at a local Big Lots store. Not 
counting the equipment, my only other cost thus far has been for two 
packages of zip ties, and one of Velcro straps at about 8 additional 
dollars.



Sitting on its side as I described earlier, the inside measurements 
are approximately 15 inches long, 12 inches tall, and just under 10 
inches from front to back. Most of these crates are built to be 
stackable, so there is a narrow channel that runs around the entire 
parameter of the crate. The top of the inside edge of this channel is 
about 3/4 inch below the outer edge of the box. My front to back 
interior measurement is to the edge of the channel, not to the edge of 
the box.



My intent is for this ¾ inch rim to be the minimum "no knobs allowed" 
zone at the front. That will reduce the possibility of banging up the 
face of the equipment while the box is being carried.



The slots of the crate are about 3 fingers wide and 4 fingers long as 
measured by my left hand while the crate was still on the store shelf. 
This primitive unit of measure is accurate enough to tell me that I 
can stuff just about any connector I'm likely to need through the 
nearest slot. Knowing that up front is a good thing. I already had a 
crate which had nice, smoothly flanged circular holes, slightly larger 
than a quarter. Those holes are just small enough to prevent the AC 
plug on the MFJ power supply from passing through. If the power cord 
for the MFJ4125 were the removable computer type, the equipment end of 
the cord would have fit through from the outside. But, the cord on 
this supply is hard wired to the unit, which is probably better since 
it means one less loose cable to keep up with.



I found some crates that were about 12 inches square, but they all had 
very tiny holes in them, rather than slots. Of course, these could be 
drilled and cut if you have the tools and the skills to do that, or 
access to someone who does. I opted for the "no alterations" approach 
just because it is easy, and so doable.



You can cram a lot of stuff into a box this size. It would be easy to 
make it too heavy for carrying, or to push the limits of the strength 
of the box itself. Partly for those reasons, and partly for safety, 
any battery that I may add to the system will be housed and 
transported in a separate battery box. Interstate Battery, and other 
battery supply stores, sells boxes that are built specifically for 
confining and operating various high capacity batteries safely. These 
boxes are in the $20 range, and are worth every dime you pay for them.



I haven't yet decided which radio will become part of my box. I could 
use the TMV71A that I already have, or look around for a deal on a 
used one.



The TM281 2 meter only radio that I wrote about a few weeks ago is 
also a strong possibility. At an average of $145, it is certainly 
priced right.



I may also have a chance of picking up a barely used IC706 locally. 
While I might have to mount the control head and the radio separately 
in order to make everything fit correctly, the beauty of the slotted 
crate structure is the flexibility of being able to put the equipment 
where it fits without the need for new holes, or for a completely new 
box when equipment is updated.



HF capability can also be a great addition, making the setup perfect 
for Field Day and other portable operation, as well as increasing the 
emergency use potential. In the case of the 706, this would also mean 
the addition of a suitable antenna tuner, which is easy enough to do.



If enough substance for a "part 3" develops as I physically put the 
equipment in the box, you will be the first to read it right here.




Mike Duke, K5XU
American Council of Blind Radio Amateurs