John,
Thank you for this. As always more than asked but welcome info.
Jim Hicks


> From: John Leeke <[log in to unmask]>
> Reply-To: The listserv where the buildings do the talking
> <[log in to unmask]>
> Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2010 07:44:24 -0500
> To: <[log in to unmask]>
> Subject: [BP] Stripping Exterior Paint - Clapboard
> 
> Jim writes:
>> I just watched the video of the steam paint removal on the door jamb of the
>> barn. The paint is completely removed&  then John says that the next step is
>> to prime&  paint.
>> What about a 1st layer of boiled linseed oil/turpentine? I've been advised
>> by Duffy&  the guys at Fine Paints of Europe and others that on old dried up
>> wood like this there needs to be that 1st layer otherwise the oil in the
>> prime is just sucked out and there is no adhesion.
> 
> Don't pay any attention to that man behind the curtain. As you can see,
> my videos are true-grit worksite productions. They are not scripted
> high-value hollywood productions like the movies or This Old House TV
> show we are all used to watching on the screen. I just shoot, work, and
> comment on what ever comes to mind. Since this video is mostly about
> paint removal I don't get into everything else about painting. For
> example, the next video in the series shows Wet Abrasive Scrub, which is
> actually the next next step. Later videos in the series do show
> pre-treatments (include the setup for testing four different
> pre-treatment materials), priming, top coats, etc.
> 
> Actually we usually do a pre-treatment like you describe, with the type
> depending on the surface conditions and situation. Here's an excerpt
> from my book on windows, most of which applies to exterior wood siding
> as well:
> 
> 9a. Pre-Treat. Apply a penetrating pre-treatment to the bare wood. There
> are two types, 1. Paintable water-repellent preservative, 2.
> consolidating oil-resin. Paintable water-repellent is suitable for sound
> wood surfaces. (if waxy paraffin type (Forest Products Lab's WRP Recipe,
> Thompson's WaterSeal, or similar) apply to all surfaces of the sash, if
> sticky oil or resin type do not apply to sash edges (the surfaces that
> run in the jamb's sash tracks) and face margins (the narrow strip where
> the face of the sash rubs on the parting bead or the stops)
> Consolidating oil-resin treatment is suitable for gray weathered wood
> surfaces or surfaces that are somewhat "soft" or more porous than
> perfectly sound wood. The traditional recipe for this treatment is
> linseed oil and turpentine. I no longer use linseed oil because it is
> susceptible to mold and fungus attack. (acts like frosting on the cake
> for the critters that eat the wood) I now use a 50%-50% mix of mineral
> spirits and oil-based alkyd resin varnish or a proprietary product
> (Flood's Penetrol, or similar) Just to confuse us all, there are some
> combination products that are suitable. (California's Storm Stain
> Penetrating Wood Stabilizer, or similar) Water-based products of both
> types MAY be suitable, but all my experience and this recommendation is
> for oil-based products.
> 
> A pre-treatment may not be necessary if all the wood is perfectly sound
> (as with all new wood) and a very effective primer is used, but I find I
> can lengthen the service life of the paint coatings on old wood with
> this "fine tuning" of the coating system. Scientific studies at the
> Forest Products Laboratory have demonstrated that a paintable water
> repellent preservative effectively adds to the protection of the wood
> and dramatically limits fungal decay extending the wood's life.
> 
> Penetrol is an oil-based product made of mineral spirits, linseed oil
> and alkyd resin that penetrates deeply into the wood surface. The
> mineral spirits evaporate leaving behind the oil and resin that cures
> and consolidates loose fibers at, and just beneath, the wood surface.
> After 24-48 hours the treated surface is dry to the touch and ready for
> light sanding or direct application of putty or paint primer. Penetrol
> is like a light varnish or like an alkyd resin oil-based paint without
> the pigment.
> 
> Storm Stain is a waterborne product that contains zinc napthanate and a
> very tiny amount of resins. Zinc napthanate is a preservative that
> limits mold, mildew and fungus. The resins help hold the zinc napthanate
> in the wood, but there is not enough resin to consolidate loose fibers
> at the surface of the wood. Storm Stain does not penetrate as deeply as
> oil-based pre-treatments because it is waterborne. After 24-48 hours the
> water has evaporated , the wood surface is dry, slightly tacky to the
> touch and ready for paint primer.
> 
> 
> Take care, work safe and keep in touch.
> 
> John
> by hammer and hand great works do stand
> by pen and thought best words are wrought
> 
> John Leeke, American Preservationeer
> 26 Higgins St.
> Portland, ME  04103
> 207 773-2306
> [log in to unmask]
> www.HistoricHomeWorks.com
> 
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