Does fully assembled mean that you don't unscrew the outer piece and 
slide it back on the coax as you normally would?  Also, it would take a 
lot of solder to go all the way around the connector.  Not sure how the 
braid would be held in place while you solder.
Finally, this method may be designed for large diameter coax.  

Anyway, it's certainly worth a try.  The connectors you buy these days 
are all coming through crimped.

73, Chris w1gm
On Mon, Nov 27, 2006 at 06:06:55PM -0500, steve wrote:
> Since this subject pops up from time to time, and this method avoids 
> soldering  the braid through the little holes,  I thought some might find it 
> of interest.    Tim, K3LR posted this discription to the Tower Talk list and 
> I asked him if he minded  me posting it to this list.
> 
> For what it's worth, K3LR has a world class DXing and contesting station 
> with a bunch of towers, over 20 yagis, another 20 verticals, some rx 
> antennas,  and all the switches and filters needed to run a high power 
> multi-multi station.   Says he has hundreds of PL 259's installed  in this 
> manner with no failures  in over 20 years.
> 
> Steve KW3A
> >From K3LR:
> I have hundreds of silver plated PL-259s in service at my station. They are 
> all
> soldered the same way. It is different from what almost everyone else does.
> Good soldered shields are very important to me.
> 
> I was never sure my shields were well soldered or had melted the dielectric
> before using this method (before 1982).
> 
> Bill, N4AR taught me how to do this and I have been doing this 
> "unconventional
> method" ever since.
> 
> Using silver plated PL259s makes this system a breeze. I use the ones that 
> say
> "Made in USA" on the shell.
> I will try to describe the method. I need to post some pictures on my web 
> site.
> 
> Take a fully assembled (shell + body) connector.
> Measure the connector against the RG8 (or similar) coax.
> Take the outer covering of the coax off with a sharp knife.
> Pull the braid back all the way by fanning it out.
> Wrap 3 to 4 turns of Scotch 88 black tape around the center conductor 
> dielectric
> up against the fanned out braid.
> Use wire strippers and remove the remaining dielectric from the center
> conductor.
> Install the fully assembled PL259 onto the center conductor and over the 88
> tape.
> The back of the PL259 body should rest on the fanned out shield.
> Solder the center conductor.
> Fan out the shield and cut it to 1/4" long and fold over the back of the 
> PL259.
> Solder the shield all the way around to the back of the PL259 body.
> While the back is still hot wrap 2 turns of 88 tape around the soldered 
> shield
> to seal it good.
> 
> I use a Weller D550 soldering gun for this process
> 
> Now you can enjoy a well soldered shielded PL259! I have NEVER had one fail!
> 
> There may be a small impedance bump that you might be able to see at VHF 
> caused
> by this method vs. soldering through the holes, but the N4AR method 
> guarantees a
> well soldered shield which is much more important to me.
> 
> 73!
> Tim K3LR
> 
> http://www.k3lr.com