Popular Popeyes flexes its muscle 

By Bill Novak
June 26, 2003

Cajun fever has Madison jumpin' for Popeyes Chicken & Biscuits. 

Now in its third smash week at 3737 Milwaukee St. in a former Hardee's, Popeyes is drawing people from all over the area for its spicy fried chicken, jambalaya, cornbread biscuits and red beans and rice. 

Franchisee Pat Mackesey said he had never seen anything like it when his restaurant opened June 2. 

"We set a new national record for sales for a Popeyes in our first week," Mackesey said. "People were lined up out the door." 

And around the building. People in the area have become used to seeing cars ringing the building at night for drive-up service. 

When my son Bobby and I visited Popeyes earlier this week for dinner, things seemed to have calmed down a little. About a dozen people were lined up at the counter placing their orders, and the seating area was about three-quarters full. 


Lunchtime is still wall-to-wall people, said manager Karl Krug. 

"We serve about 200 people at lunch," Krug said. "We need to open our other restaurants to take some of the pressure off this one." 

Mackesey will open his second Popeyes in a former Hardee's at 1902 Northport Drive in mid-July, and the third Popeyes will open in a former Hardee's at 2844 Fish Hatchery Road in Fitchburg in mid-August. 

What is it about this food? 

"It's juicy, good," Bobby said, chomping down on a meaty chicken breast. He got the mild style chicken, while I opted for the spicy. 

When I took some of the coating off the chicken and popped it in my mouth, I was a little disappointed because it didn't taste very hot. After I bit into the chicken meat, I learned something: The heat is in the meat. 

"We marinate our chicken pieces for 12 hours before it's battered and fried, so the chicken absorbs the flavor," Krug said. He wouldn't divulge the recipe, but it's safe to say the flavor stays with you for a while, and it's definitely flavor, not just heat. 

On a scale of one to 10, I'd give the heat about a four, so it's mild enough for just about everyone to try it but strong enough to make you want more if you like spicy food. 

The side dishes really set Popeyes apart from other chains. Red beans and rice, Cajun rice, mashed potatoes and gravy, and a marvelous chicken and sausage jambalaya keep the customers coming back. 

"People are loving it," Mackesey said. "The sides are really going well." 

Raven Campus and Shelly Renton, two students at the Madison Cosmetology College, were hunkering down to enjoy their chicken and sides when I interrupted them in mid-bite. 

"I like the spicy chicken," Raven said, "and the mashed potatoes are my favorite." 

It was Shelly's first time at Popeyes. 

"It's really good," she said, digging into her mild chicken. "It's good to have a different taste in the area." 

The walls inside Popeyes are adorned with colorful murals of Louisiana, people dancing and making music, and such slogans as "Cajuns say -- if you're smilin', you're not whinin' -- for true!" and "We do good ba-you!" 

When Bobby and I left the restaurant a half-hour after arriving, the counter crew still had plenty of customers to deal with. Fast service is a key; we got our food within two minutes of ordering it. 

"Business is jumping like a jackrabbit," said counter worker Brenda. 

The Popeyes menu is pretty limited, but new side dishes including corn on the cob and new main dishes including catfish should be joining the other Cajun specialties eventually. 

The two two-piece chicken combo plates, plus a small side of jambalaya, came to just over $12. We were stuffed. 

Krug said people are coming in from all over Madison to get a taste of Cajun-style chicken with all the fixin's, so the two new locations should take some of the pressure off the only Popeyes now open in the city. 

"I had no idea it would be this popular," he said. "It's an eye-opening experience." 

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