Here's a trick: Set a sheet of lead in a glass pan with white vinegar.
Carefully collect the whitish-material that collects on the surface of the
lead. Store it in an air-tight jar -- I prefer the Ball Mason Jars that come
with fancy spaghetti sauce. When you get a quart, buy some linseed oil --
boiled or raw. Mix the whole thing up carefully in a mortar-and-pestle (or,
better yet, an olde-tyme paint mill -- see eBay for details). Apply
resulting paste to mating and back surfaces of preservative treated millwork
(I prefer to treat my own in large vats in the garage). Don't forget the end
grain. (You can skip application to the back surfaces if you have a
reasonable commercially available primer -- see the BP archives for
discussion of "quality" paints). Oh, and don't forget to wear gloves and a
respirator at all times. Wash your hands before lunch. Don't smoke. Keep
small children at a great distance. And, last but, not least, walk away
knowing your client will be satisfied for eons.

-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Cagnetta [mailto:[log in to unmask]]
Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2000 11:09 AM
To: [log in to unmask]
Subject: Re: RE; Flushboard siding


Oh by the way, the building was "restored" only four years ago.  The new
addition is four years old, and the horizontal flushboard siding has
some incredible rot.  Go figure, shitty wood, too much caulk, no back
priming, poor craftsmanship and no repairs to the causes of the problems
on the original building have cause it to fail in FOUR years.  So, in
efforts to not repeat past mistakes, I figure, do the exact opposite of
the last "restoration" and it should perform fine.