I agree with Ralph but don't forget to seal the membrane penetrations - epoxy will not do that. Also, not much sticks to the polyethelene surface they put on top of the Ice and Water Shield plus "does" may also drip out when it gets hot so I would not. Also you probably should provide a metal drip edge cause the "membrane" will also melt and drip out onto your facade. Black tar boogers running down the facade are ugly and hard to remove - I know.
Thanks,
Eric Hammarberg
Vice President
Thornton Tomasetti
51 Madison Avenue
New York, NY 10010
T 917.661.7800 F 917.661.7801
D 917.661.8160
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This message sent from Treo, please pardon spelling and other mistakes.
-----Original Message-----
From: [log in to unmask] [mailto:[log in to unmask]]
Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2007 02:15 PM Eastern Standard Time
To: [log in to unmask]
Subject: Re: [BP] one if by mud two if by adhesive
Ralph writes
So be grateful the stupid architect
is willing to put the anchors in, set them before the membrane goes in (or
drill thru the membrane, set the anchors in epoxy, and then put down the
mortar
bed and the precast with horiz pins thru the head joints and the eyes in
the
anchors. Maybe you can convince the genius architect to let you use
asphalt-coated copper flashing so there's a CHANCE of some bonding between
mortar
and flashing. But you knew all this. Ralph
Kind sir
There was a setter I used to work high rises with in the city as a young man
not a day went by when he used to say ....".The older I get ;the less I know
";
I didn't really get what he meant ..but I get it now
A.
The owner I feel wants the stone anchored to the roof ;
B. I am happy with hoizontal pins but use of such means its not anchored
to the roof
C.......its the setting bed that has me thinking perhaps alternatives like
adhesive laid to the fire and ice sheild then to stone then shim and set
or even asphaltic tar which is a mortar and tar like they used in 19th
cent .
stinking of you Py
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