Hello,
I have recently acquired another laptop in hopes of doing away with our
desktop which is currently hardwired to a cable modem. My first laptop is
powered wirelessly from a router. The second laptop is also wireless
through this same router. My question is, how do I print when the desktop is
no longer hooked up to the printer. If I understand correctly I need the
cable modem hooked to the router which sends out the signal to the 2
laptops. I don't need the desktop for anything do I? But without that
desktop how do I print? I have a HP inkjet 5550. I know there is wireless
printing, but I don't know what I need to do it.
Becky Buehrer
----- Original Message -----
From: "Automatic digest processor" <[log in to unmask]>
To: "Recipients of PCBUILD digests" <[log in to unmask]>
Sent: Monday, September 06, 2004 1:02 AM
Subject: PCBUILD Digest - 4 Sep 2004 to 5 Sep 2004 (#2004-245)
> There are 12 messages totalling 632 lines in this issue.
>
> Topics of the day:
>
> 1. Power supply for Pentium 3, 1000MHz - reccomendations? (2)
> 2. Partition info
> 3. Still Having Spontaneuos Reboots After Normal Suggestions for
> Troubleshooting
> 4. Still Having Spontaneuos Reboots After Normal
Suggestions for
> Troubleshooting (2)
> 5. Power Supplys
> 6. CPU temperatures (2)
> 7. cmos problems?
> 8. New build (2)
>
> PCBUILD maintains hundreds of useful files for download
> visit our download web page at:
> http://freepctech.com/downloads.shtml
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2004 08:22:11 +0300
> From: Uzi Paz <[log in to unmask]>
> Subject: Power supply for Pentium 3, 1000MHz - reccomendations?
>
> I have to replace a power supply for a typical computer based on Pentium
> 1000MHz (still coppermine), and I have decided not to buy one of those no-
> name power supplies.
>
> Yet, I prefer if it is ok, not to invest too much in something very
> expensive.
>
> Would a 300W power supply by a company like HEC, CoolerMaster, or
> Thermaltake be enough, or should I spend more money on power supply which
> provides higher power?
>
> Thanks,
> Uzi
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2004 02:42:24 -0400
> From: Richard Glazier <[log in to unmask]>
> Subject: Re: Partition info
>
> It looks like no one ever formatted the second partition.
> You could do that (safely and non-destructively IF it is truly empty)
> and have all your data on "D".
> (BE SURE you do not format drive "C" by mistake!!!)
>
> If you actually want to combine the two partitions into one,
> get a good friend familiar with DOS type programs
> and go to the following site:
> http://www.ranish.com/part/
> Since your drive size is 2G/FAT16, I am assuming that you
> are using an older OS. The software on that site will only work
> with older OSs (or more specifically older file systems.)
> The software is free... The price you pay is that it is "a little"
> hard to use and user unfriendly unless you have worked in
> a DOS/IBM "graphic type" interface.
>
> Rick Glazier
>
> From: "George" <[log in to unmask]>
> I am trying to get partition information on a 2 GB drive.
> The "Display Partition Information" is as follows;
>
> Partition Status Type VL Mbytes System Usage
> C:1 A PRI DOS 1049 FAT16 52%
> 2 EXT DOS 965 48%
>
> Total disk space is 2014 Mbytes
> The usable disk space is 1049 Mbytes as shown for PRI DOS.
> My question is can the "EXT DOS" part be deleted and the
> 965 Mbytes be added to the "PRI DOS" so that I can use all of the 2 GB's.
> Thank you in advance for any information.
> George Newlark
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2004 03:35:53 -0400
> From: Richard Glazier <[log in to unmask]>
> Subject: Re: Power supply for Pentium 3, 1000MHz - reccomendations?
>
> Depends on Video card, and numbers of all types of drives.
>
> I have a system that runs an AMD 1700+ a 32meg cheap
> video card, two IDE HDs, a CD-Rom and DVD-burner,
> with "only" a 300W PS.
> Be carefull of the distribution of the 300W though to the
> various voltages. Mine is an Antec PS that came with a
> "non-performance" case.
>
> Rick Glazier
>
> From: "Uzi Paz" <[log in to unmask]>
> > I have to replace a power supply for a typical computer based on Pentium
> > 1000MHz (still coppermine), and I have decided not to buy one of those
no-
> > name power supplies.
> >
> > Yet, I prefer if it is ok, not to invest too much in something very
> > expensive.
> >
> > Would a 300W power supply by a company like HEC, CoolerMaster, or
> > Thermaltake be enough, or should I spend more money on power supply
which
> > provides higher power?
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2004 12:00:25 -0500
> From: Adam Favre <[log in to unmask]>
> Subject: Still Having Spontaneuos Reboots After Normal Suggestions for
> Troubleshooting
>
> I have a home built rig that is still having spontaneous reboot issues. I
have replaced the Enlight Power supply with a an Antec True 480 psu, I have
replaced upgraded (or changed) memory from Mushkin Green PC 3200 memory to
OCZ Enhanced Latency PC 3200 memory. I have checked operating temps. The
CPU run well within spec from AMD (highest temp 49celsius, 120 F under load)
and case temp hovers around the 90F (32C). I have upgraded to the latest
bios for my board and have also upgraded to the latest NVIDIA NFORCE2
drivers. I cannot recall exactly when the spontaneous reboot issue started
(no particular upgrade or hardware install sticks out). Here is what I have
hardware wise, I hope you can help.
>
> AMD ATHLON XP 3200+
> ABIT AN7 Mobo
> 1 Lite On DVD RW+- 8x Drive (IDE)
> 1 SAMSUNG CD RW Drive (IDE)
> 1 Western Digital 160gb Caviar Hard Drive w/ 89mb cache (7200 RPM)
> 2 OCZ Enhanced Latency 512k DDR PC 3200 ram modules running in dual
channel
> 1 ATI Radeon 9800 pro Video Card
> 1 Antec Tru 480w power supply
> 1 Teac 3.5 Floppy Drive
>
> 2 80 mm Case Fans (1 intake, 1 exhaust)
> 1 Thermaltake Heatsink/Fan
>
>
> Thank you for any further direction you can give
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2004 11:28:29 -0700
> From: Jeff Lane <[log in to unmask]>
> Subject: Re: Still Having Spontaneuos Reboots After Normal
> Suggestions for Troubleshooting
>
> Adam,
>
> There are a number of things that can cause your reboots other than
hardware
> issues. Spyware, virus, Trojans, or worms are far more responsible for
these
> kind of problems today. I am inserting some help compiled by our good
friend
> Carl Houseman. He has spent a great deal of time and effort to solve these
> types of issues. Most all of the programs described are free and are not
> system intrusive. Be certain to update them prior to usage. I feel that
this
> is a viable alternative to spending more money on hardware until you are
> certain your system is clean. Remember it can be infected in a nanosecond.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Jeff
>
>
> Deluxe Internet Explorer Spyware & Crapware Uninstall Methodology[TM]
> D.I.E.S.C.U.M.[TM]
>
> If you've been advised to implement D.I.E.S.C.U.M.[TM], then the symptoms
> you've reported are unusual enough that they merit a full review of your
> system for software installs or other alterations that may have been done
> without your knowledge. You may even be advised to work through this when
> the problem has nothing to do with Internet Explorer.
>
> Complete these steps in the order listed and with careful attention to the
> instructions. Download links for software titles are given at the bottom.
> Except as noted, each step should be followed by a reboot and a check to
see
> if the problem still happens. If not fixed, move to the next step. After
> the problem is resolved, see "Preventative Measures" at the end.
>
> DISCLAIMER / WARNING:
> Perform these steps at your own risk. No warranty is expressed or implied
> that the advice which follows will solve your problems or prevent harm to
> your computer. In the worst case, the complete contents of your
computer's
> hard drive could be lost, so make backups of anything important before
> proceeding.
>
>
>
> Steps 1-4: Automatic Detection and Removal
>
> 1. Make sure your antivirus software is up-to-date and scan all drives.
If
> something is detected and removed, scan again after rebooting.
>
> NOTE:
> If you have no antivirus software, install, update, and scan with either
AVG
> or Avast. If your existing antivirus program is out of date and won't
> update, or you don't want to pay for updates, remove it and go with AVG or
> Avast. Do not install more than one antivirus program at a time.
>
> 2. Install, update, enable all immunization features, and scan for
problems
> with Spybot Search & Destroy. Fix all problems that are reported. Scan
> again after rebooting.
>
> 3. Install, update, and enable all immunizations in Spywareblaster.
>
> 4. Install, update, and scan with Trojan Remover.
>
>
>
> Steps 5-7: Especially for a misbehaving Internet Explorer
>
> 5. In IE, click Tools, Internet Options, click "Delete Files" and remove
all
> offline content. No need to reboot after this step.
>
> 6. In IE, click Tools, Internet Options, Advanced, and under Browsing,
> un-check "Enable third party browser extensions".
>
> NOTE: Some third party browser extensions are beneficial. If this step
this
> fixes the problem, start Spybot Search & Destroy, enable Advanced mode,
then
> look at Tools, BHO's. Click the check-mark next to a BHO item for
details.
> If you don't recognize it, click the Remove button. When all of the
> unwanted BHO's are removed, re-enable third party browse extensions,
reboot,
> and verify the problem is still solved.
>
> 7. In IE, click Tools, Internet Options, Programs, and click "Reset Web
> Settings".
>
>
>
> Steps 8-10: Getting serious now
>
> 8. In Spybot Search & Destroy, enable Advanced mode and go to Tools,
System
> Startup. Un-check EVERYTHING.
>
> NOTE:
> If scumware is active on your system it may attempt to create new items
each
> time you disable an item. In that case, boot into safe mode before
starting
> this step. If you enabled Spybot's "TeaTimer" feature, you will be asked
to
> approve the un-checking of items.
>
> You will want to re-enable some of the items after the problem is solved.
> Look at the command line of each item and see if the folder or program
name
> is related to a product you recognize. If so, it's probably safe to
> re-enable. But don't assume that something is required because it's in
the
> \windows or \windows\system32 folder or because it's name sounds like it's
> important to Windows. To further investigate an item, search for it here:
>
> http://www.windowsstartup.com/wso/index.php
>
> If you're still not sure about re-enabling an item, post the full command
> line (with folder names) to this mailing list.
>
> 9. In Spybot Search & Destroy, enable Advanced Mode, click Tools, and
place
> a check-mark in the box for "Hosts File". Now click the Hosts File button
> that appears on the left. Remove any hosts which do not have a
destination
> of 127.0.0.1. If you are looking at the Hosts File for the first time,
and
> the file has not been modified by scumware, there will be just one entry
for
> "localhost". See further comments under Preventative Measures below.
>
> 10. Install and run the Rootkit Detector. If something is detected, copy
> and paste the results in a message to this mailing list for further
comment.
>
> NOTE: How to install and run Rootkit Detector:
> a. Extract all files into an empty folder.
> b. Open a command prompt.
> c. Type CD followed by the full path of the folder you created for step
(a),
> and press Enter.
> d. Type "rkdetector" and press Enter at the prompt.
>
>
>
> Step 11: When all else fails.
>
> 11. Run HijackThis, click Scan, click Save Log, and post the contents of
the
> log file to this mailing list.
>
>
>
> All done? Now that your system is clean, implement these
> Preventative measures
>
> A. Complete steps 1, 2 and 3 above even if you have no problems.
>
> B. In Spybot Search & Destroy, enable Advanced Mode, click Tools, put a
> check-mark in Hosts File, and click the Host File button on the left. Now
> click "Add Spybot S&D Hosts List". This prevents your system from
accessing
> potentially dangerous websites. The names of those sites will now be
listed
> in your hosts file with a destination address of 127.0.0.1.
>
> C. In Spywareblaster, click System Snapshot and Create New System
Snapshot.
> In the future if you have an IE problem, try restoring this snapshot
before
> working through D.I.E.S.C.U.M.[TM] again.
>
> D. Set your antivirus software to automatically update itself DAILY and to
> perform a full scan of your hard drive at least weekly, or daily if you
> leave the machine on 24x7 and can schedule it to run overnight.
>
> E. On a WEEKLY basis (at minimum) make sure your antivirus software,
Spybot
> Search & Destroy, and Spywareblaster, are all up to date. Even though
your
> antivirus software is updating itself daily, verify that the updates are
> happening. After a Spybot update, re-enable all immunizations and
complete
> a scan.
>
> F. Enable Microsoft to automatically download patches to your machine
> (Control Panel / System / Automatic Updates). You don't have to choose to
> have patches installed automatically but at least let them be downloaded
so
> you're notified of their existence. If a new patch has problems you'll
hear
> about it within a week or two at most, after that consider the patch safe
> and let it be installed.
>
> ======
> Links to Software Tools
>
> Note that some of this software is free for non-commercial
(home/non-profit)
> usage only. Consider making a donation to those that provide a means of
> accepting contributions. Your support will help insure that these high
> quality tools remain available and free.
>
>
> Free Antivirus (AVG preferred for Outlook / Outlook Express users):
> AVG: http://free.grisoft.com/freeweb.php
> Avast: http://www.avast.com/eng/avast_4_home.html
>
> Free Anti-Spyware/Adware:
> Spybot Search & Destroy: http://www.safer-networking.org/en/index.html
> Spywareblaster: http://www.javacoolsoftware.com/spywareblaster.html
> Hijackthis: http://www2.spywareinfo.com/~merijn/files/hijackthis.zip
>
> Free trial Anti-Trojan software (fully functional for 30 days):
> Trojan Remover: http://www.simplysup.com
>
> Free Rootkit Detector:
> http://bagpuss.swan.ac.uk/comms/RKDetectorv0%5B1%5D.62.zip
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> >I have a home built rig that is still having spontaneous reboot issues.
I
> >have replaced the Enlight Power supply with a an Antec True 480 psu, I
have
> >replaced upgraded (or changed) memory from Mushkin Green PC 3200 memory
to
> >OCZ Enhanced Latency PC 3200 memory. I have checked operating temps.
The
> >CPU run well within spec from AMD (highest temp 49celsius, 120 F under
> >load) and case temp hovers around the 90F (32C). I have upgraded to the
> >latest bios for my board and have also upgraded to the latest NVIDIA
> >NFORCE2 drivers. I cannot recall exactly when the spontaneous reboot
issue
> >started (no particular upgrade or hardware install sticks out). Here is
> >what I have hardware wise, I hope you can help.
> >
> > AMD ATHLON XP 3200+
> > ABIT AN7 Mobo
> > 1 Lite On DVD RW+- 8x Drive (IDE)
> > 1 SAMSUNG CD RW Drive (IDE)
> > 1 Western Digital 160gb Caviar Hard Drive w/ 89mb cache (7200 RPM)
> > 2 OCZ Enhanced Latency 512k DDR PC 3200 ram modules running in dual
> > channel
> > 1 ATI Radeon 9800 pro Video Card
> > 1 Antec Tru 480w power supply
> > 1 Teac 3.5 Floppy Drive
> >
> > 2 80 mm Case Fans (1 intake, 1 exhaust)
> > 1 Thermaltake Heatsink/Fan
> >
> >
> > Thank you for any further direction you can give
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2004 00:57:26 -0500
> From: Eugene Johnson <[log in to unmask]>
> Subject: Power Supplys
>
> On Fri, 2004-09-03 at 14:52, Harvey Alaric wrote:
> >I plan to buy a PC case with power supply. I see some advertised with a
>
> >550 Watt power supply, which seems like a lot. Is more better or is it
> >possible to have too many Watts?
>
> Additional questions I have when purchasing a power supply are related
> to:
> 1. fan noise,
> 2. and, how "clean" in terms of voltage fluctuation.
>
> What should we look for as specifications for these two important
> characteristics?
>
> Gene Johnson
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2004 17:30:01 -0700
> From: Sybilgal <[log in to unmask]>
> Subject: Re: CPU temperatures
>
> I am re sending this because I received Zero responses... :(
>
> Hello all.
>
> I was reading a thread the other day regarding this issue but didn't see
> a follow up... I have a P4 2.8 Soyo dragon 2 MB...I always thought that
> a safe temperature was under 130 degrees... Am I wrong? I have smart
> guard with mb and I have multiple fans (I had unwittingly purchased a
> gamers case, so it came with several fans not counting the heatsink/cpu
> fan)... So I was feeling pretty confident. Now, I am wondering...
> What's the rule with the temps? Mine runs at 115 degrees...
>
> Kathleen LaValley
>
> The NOSPIN Group is now accepting donations to help
> defer the costs of providing PCBUILD and our website.
> Visit http://freepctech.com to donate using PAYPAL
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2004 10:09:59 -0400
> From: Jeffrey Forman <[log in to unmask]>
> Subject: cmos problems?
>
> A few months ago I built a AMD2700 based computer running XP Pro.
Everything seemed to be running very smoothly until last week. First, I
found out that the processor was running at half the speed that it is
supposed to run at. Four days later the computer would not recognize my
primary 80 gig drive nor my data 160ATA drive. I have a Asus A7N8X Deluxe
mobo. Do I have to upgrade the bios?
> Help me please!!!
>
> Jeff Forman
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2004 14:48:22 -0400
> From: John Sproule <[log in to unmask]>
> Subject: Re: New build
>
> Doh! After sending off my original reply to this topic, I realized that I
> had omitted mention of the drives.
>
> Floppy Drive: I still find these useful, and at only $9 ($1 shipping),
they
> are relatively inexpensive.
>
> Hard Drive: 7200rpm drives are pretty standard these days, and 40GB drive
> is about all you may need on a basic comuputer. Seagate makes very good
> drives, and they've started putting 5 year warranties on them, $54 ($1
> shipping). However, it doesn't cost all that much more to move up to a
80GB
> drive. Seagate's 7200rpm model with 2MB cache is $66 ($1 shipping).
These
> are EIDE drives, as the motherboards that I mentioned in my prior post do
> not support SATA.
>
> Optical Drive: A basic CD-ROM or even DVD-ROM may be all you need, and
> LiteOn makes some inexpensive models, such as their $19 52x CD-ROM or
their
> $28 16x DVD-ROM. However, many folks would consider a CD burner as basic
> equipment these days, in which case there is LiteOn's 52x CD burner for
$28
> or their Combo drive (52x16x) for $42.
>
> Adding the cost of the floppy drive ($9), 40GB hard drive ($54), and the
> DVD-ROM ($28) to my previous $340 subtotal brings the cost of this box up
to
> $431. (I thought that previous number sounded too low.)
>
> John Sproule
>
> ----- Abbreviated Original Message -----
> From: "John Sproule" <[log in to unmask]>
> To: "PCBUILD - Personal Computer Hardware discussion List"
> <[log in to unmask]>
> Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2004 12:56 PM
> Subject: Re: [PCBUILD] New build
>
>
> > Here are some suggestions for a basic, business apps computer.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2004 14:46:32 -0400
> From: John Sproule <[log in to unmask]>
> Subject: Re: Still Having Spontaneuos Reboots After Normal
> Suggestions for Troubleshooting
>
> You might try using Prime95 and MemTest86 to check the stability of
> processor and memory. Use each one for a minimum of 12 hours. If either
> produces errors, you likely have a hardware problem of some sort (or at
> least a hardware configuration problem). If you pass both, you at least
can
> have some confidence in your processor and RAM, and you can move on to
> trying to eliminate other factors.
>
> By the way, what programs are you typically running when you get these
> reboots? Any pattern or common denominators to what you are doing when
they
> occur? About how often do they happen?
>
> John Sproule
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Adam Favre" <[log in to unmask]>
> To: <[log in to unmask]>
> Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2004 1:00 PM
> Subject: [PCBUILD] Still Having Spontaneuos Reboots After Normal
Suggestions
> for Troubleshooting
>
>
> > I have a home built rig that is still having spontaneous reboot issues.
I
> have replaced the Enlight Power supply with a an Antec True 480 psu, I
have
> replaced upgraded (or changed) memory from Mushkin Green PC 3200 memory to
> OCZ Enhanced Latency PC 3200 memory. I have checked operating temps. The
> CPU run well within spec from AMD (highest temp 49celsius, 120 F under
load)
> and case temp hovers around the 90F (32C). I have upgraded to the latest
> bios for my board and have also upgraded to the latest NVIDIA NFORCE2
> drivers. I cannot recall exactly when the spontaneous reboot issue
started
> (no particular upgrade or hardware install sticks out). Here is what I
have
> hardware wise, I hope you can help.
> >
> > AMD ATHLON XP 3200+
> > ABIT AN7 Mobo
> > 1 Lite On DVD RW+- 8x Drive (IDE)
> > 1 SAMSUNG CD RW Drive (IDE)
> > 1 Western Digital 160gb Caviar Hard Drive w/ 89mb cache (7200 RPM)
> > 2 OCZ Enhanced Latency 512k DDR PC 3200 ram modules running in dual
> channel
> > 1 ATI Radeon 9800 pro Video Card
> > 1 Antec Tru 480w power supply
> > 1 Teac 3.5 Floppy Drive
> >
> > 2 80 mm Case Fans (1 intake, 1 exhaust)
> > 1 Thermaltake Heatsink/Fan
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2004 12:56:57 -0400
> From: John Sproule <[log in to unmask]>
> Subject: Re: New build
>
> Here are some suggestions for a basic, business apps computer. I'm using
> NewEgg for prices, since they have a good selection and their prices seem
> representative.
>
> Case: I tend to like Antec cases, because they combine a good quality
case
> with a quality power supply. I'd look for their models with a 120mm fan
in
> the back, included, for the quieter operation. The SLK3700AMB is on sale
> for $64 (and free shipping) this weekend. It has a 350 watt power supply.
> Otherwise, the SLK1650 would be a good choice. It is a smaller midtower
> than the SLK3700 and it incorporates an air-guide on the side, which can
be
> quite effective with a low rpm heatsink fan that blows down on the
> processor. I mention low rpm, because this air guide also will transmit
fan
> noise out of the case with a louder fan. Of couse, the socket needs to be
> in the right place. The air guide is designed for Pentium 4 systems, but
> can be of varying benefit to others, as well. The SLK1650 also has a
120mm
> exhaust fan and a 350 watt power supply. (Note: the SLK3700 size case
will
> be easier to work with using a full ATX board than the SLK1650. The
SLK1650
> taks a full ATX board, but a micro-ATX will be easier to install.)
>
> Processor: I think that the lower end Athlon XPs for socket A
motherboards
> give the best performance for the money in this budget system class. You
> can pick up an OEM XP 2000 (1.67GHz) for $55 and a boxed version (with
> heatsink and fan) for $64. Personally, I find the retail AMD heatsinks
and
> fans prettty noisey and prefer a third party product, such as a Speeze
> WhisperRockII for $9 ($5 shipping) or the Arctic Cooling Copper Silent
2TC,
> which has a temperture controlled fan, for a very quiet system, $15 ($5
> shipping).
>
> Motherboard: Integrated graphics is usually considered good enough for
> typical business applications, web browsing, and email. The SiS741GX
> chipset boards are the least expensive in this catagory. (Note: the
> SiS741GX only supports bus speeds up to 333MHz; the SiS741 chipset
supports
> up to 400MHz bus speeds.) The ASRock K7S41GX is a micro-ATX board with an
> AGP slot and 2 PCI slots. It sells for $42 ($5 shipping). ASRock is a
part
> of Asus; so, I prefer them over some cheaper boards from PC Chips and ECS.
> If you are looking for better performance and plan on using a video card,
> the single channel Nvidia Nforce2 400 chipset boards are a good
alternative.
> (Nforce2 400 chipset has single channel memory, and Nforce2 400 Ultra
> chipset has dual channel memory capability. The performance difference is
> only a few percentage points.) The Asus A7N8X-X is a good choice in this
> catagory. This is a full size ATX board; so, it also has 5 PCI slots, if
> you need more than a couple of those. It is selling for $61 ($5
shipping).
>
> Memory: I'd recommend PC3200 memory from a reputable brand. You don't
save
> that much money going with a slower rated module, if even you don't
> necessarily need PC3200, and it gives you more flexibility for what you
> might do with this module in the future. You certainly can get by with
> 256MB, but 512MB is better. Mushkins Basic PC3200 512MB module is selling
> for $74 ($1 shipping), and Corsair's Value Select PC3200 (CL2.5) is
selling
> for a dollar more. Their equivalent 256MB modules are selling for $42.
>
> Video, Audio, Ethernet: This would all be integrated with the SiS chipset
> board.
>
> If you are looking for a video card, you really don't need all that 3D
> rendering power that drives up the price of the top end video cards.
Rather
> than 3D processing power, something that could be more useful for this
sort
> of system might be a DVI connector. DVI connections will give you better
> image quality if you plan on hooking up a LCD monitor to this system. I
> think that this becomes more important as you move up from 15" LCDs to 17"
> LCDs, or larger. Although a bit dated and not much of a power house in
the
> 3D department, a you can find a Radeon 7000 32MB with DVI in the $30
range.
>
> Operating System: WinXP Home (oem) $90 and WinXP Pro (oem) $137 (on
sale).
>
> Total for Antec SLK3700, Athlon XP 2000 (oem), Artic Cooling HS, ASRock
SiS
> MB with integrated grahics, 512MB RAM, and WinXP Home: $340, not counting
> shipping.
>
> Hope this is helpful.
>
> John Sproule
>
> ----- Abbreviated Original Message -----
> From: "The Tone Zone" <[log in to unmask]>
> To: <[log in to unmask]>
> Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2004 8:25 AM
> Subject: [PCBUILD] New build
>
>
> I'm trying to buy parts this weekend to build a new computer for my
> business.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2004 14:51:53 -0600
> From: Michael Wurster <[log in to unmask]>
> Subject: Re: CPU temperatures
>
> Kathleen,
> Is the 115 degrees case temp or CPU temp? If it's CPU temp you're doing
> great....if it's case temp, I'd begin to wonder if there is adequate
> circulation around the case. With two case fans I'd expect to see no more
> than about 100 degrees when you're really working the beast.
>
> Michael
>
>
> >I was reading a thread the other day regarding this issue but didn't see
> >a follow up... I have a P4 2.8 Soyo dragon 2 MB...I always thought that
> >a safe temperature was under 130 degrees...
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of PCBUILD Digest - 4 Sep 2004 to 5 Sep 2004 (#2004-245)
> ************************************************************
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