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Hello all -- Thanks for your many responses on this issue.  This is what
I have hit upon as a temporary expedient.  I ordered kosher meals as I
know from the entrees listed by the reservations agent that they will at
least be dairy-free.  I am also packing the usual backup supplies; in this
case dinner, snacks, and breakfast as we are flying to Athens on TWA.  So
far, standard operating procedure.
 
In addition, I have printed out a letter which I'll give to the ticket agent
when we check in, and to the flight attendants when we board on all flights.
It outlines that we requested gluten-free meals but were told none were
available, and that the kosher meals are an attempt to meet my son's
dietary needs.  I then ask the flight attendants to check that our kosher
meals have been ordered, and ask whether there is an ingredient list I
can check. Then I ask if they have facilities for heating up the
breakfast I've packed for my son (assuming he wakes up at 2:30 a.m. our
time -- hope not!).
 
That's the body of the letter.  I signed it and gave our seat numbers, and
then below the signature explained briefly what gluten-free and dairy-
free entail (2 and a half lines).  Finally, along the bottom of the letter
I requested that they pass this letter onto the office at TWA which plans
meals, and mentioned (nicely, I think) that there are growing numbers of us
who refuse to fly airlines that do not provide our meals, and pointed out
that it's very easy to prepare a gluten-free meal -- rice, chicken,
steamed vegetables; fruit for dessert.
 
So that's the plan.  I don't expect necessarily to have everything go
smoothly (hence the backup supplies); more, this is aimed at eliminating
what wrinkles we can for this flight, and perhaps getting someone's
attention in the long run at
TWA about gluten-free meals.  (My father-in-law bought the tickets, so no
option to vote with our dollars in this case, but I'm not complaining!)
If others are so inclined, perhaps handing such letters
out liberally to airline personnel (I think we can spare the mechanics and
the pilots; I'd rather not distract them!) would eventually have some
effect.  Esp. as more airlines are employee-owned, it might be effective
to lobby the flight attendants as well as top management.
 
Also, consensus seems to be that we'll have no trouble getting ingredients
through customs with a letter from a doctor explaining what they're for,
and very clear labels.  There are also drugstores and health food stores in
Athens carrying celiac supplies, and a CD association, as well as plenty of
gluten-free dishes at tavernas and hotels.
 
Further suggestions are welcome on either of these points.
 
All the best,
 
Elizabeth