BULLAMANKA-PINHEADS Archives

The listserv where the buildings do the talking

BULLAMANKA-PINHEADS@LISTSERV.ICORS.ORG

Options: Use Forum View

Use Monospaced Font
Show Text Part by Default
Show All Mail Headers

Message: [<< First] [< Prev] [Next >] [Last >>]
Topic: [<< First] [< Prev] [Next >] [Last >>]
Author: [<< First] [< Prev] [Next >] [Last >>]

Print Reply
Subject:
From:
Mark Rabinowitz <[log in to unmask]>
Reply To:
Mark Rabinowitz <[log in to unmask]>
Date:
Sun, 12 Sep 1999 21:20:37 -0400
Content-Type:
text/plain
Parts/Attachments:
text/plain (66 lines)
Do not take such an aggressive path.  It should be feasible to stabilize
some if not all of the historic material.  An objects conservator,
particularly one familiar with immersed objects, should be able to help.

Rusted iron can be stabilized with tannic acid (rust converter) which will
produce a rather attractive black skin.  It only converts iron oxide so do
not remove the rust.  I have tried it on exterior iron without further
coating and it held up pretty well just by itself over the test run of 3
years.  If further coated with wax it might last longer but much will depend
on environmental conditions.  It will not re-adhere flaking iron or the
cubist-like deep fractured rust formations that sea immersion can cause on
wrought iron.   Re-adhesion of the particles with adhesives prior to
conversion might be called for.

Saturated wood can be treated with polyethyl glycol (PEG) which will form a
superficial skin within the wood, locking the moisture within it and
stopping desiccation.  It requires submerging the wood in a bath for some
period of days.  You have to build a bath around the piece and weight in so
that it remains under the solution.

I will forward your request to the AIC object specialty groups listserv for
further suggestions.

Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Davidson <[log in to unmask]>
To: [log in to unmask]
<[log in to unmask]>
Date: Sunday, September 12, 1999 4:14 PM
Subject: Re: anchor preservation


>a friend of mine who shall remain nameless ; asked me aboard his 52 foot
>fishing boat; to fish the coasts and rips of Nantucket; and sallie the
shore
>for the late night parties at the salons of dowager Nasdaq queens for blue
>claw crabmeat on on small toasts; with splits of champagne;
>it was there whilst boasting of my good fortune of taking on blues and
>strippers that I was engaged in conservation regarding the preservation of
a
>large magnificent early anchor of the industrial revolution.
> The anchor is of the large hook type;and it was taken some months ago from
>the deep clam shoals nr Martha's Vineyard.It is some 20 ft in height and is
>about 20 inches in diameter at its narrow; it is estimated to be 150 to 200
>yrs old. Conditions are such that it is now gracing the manicured lawn of
an
>neighbor who bought it from the clammer for a princely sum;
> it has since fallen on the hard times of neglect; and is failing at a
>miserable rate. conditions are such the rust is a 1/4 inch thick; and the
>massive oak surrounding it is splitting badly; and meybe lost entirely if
>action is not taken; Being a erstwhile member of the pinheads; I like to
>think I know stone; my mastrey of metal is something else again;
>and the owner asked me to come up with a simple plan to arrest the
situation;
>and due to his kind generoisty on other matters I said I would try to
oblige
>him ; through  my fellow lodge members .... fellow pinheads;
> do we  1. grind off all rust? and paint black in rust perventative; and
soak
>the oak in oil?        while failed banding is replaced to match the
>orginal?. I feel that this is radical but I have suggested nothing...any
>suggestions?
>..he is looking for solutions he can do on site...ps I can get mail on the
>road but will be unable to send any for a week as Im on my way to  Nebraska
>many thanks...Best Michael

ATOM RSS1 RSS2