Ah, you are so-o-o right! Safety glass film does react with acid cure. I
believe neutral cure is not so reactive. We have also used tempered glass in
this instance.
Eric Hammarberg, Assoc. AIA
Vice President
Thornton Tomasetti
51 Madison Avenue
New York, NY 10010
T 917.661.7800 F 917.661.7801
D 917.661.8160
[log in to unmask]
-----Original Message-----
From: Rudy Christian [mailto:[log in to unmask]]
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 4:46 PM
To: [log in to unmask]
Subject: Re: [BP] And now for something completely different
I guess where I have found silicone to be a problem is automotive glazing.
It must react with the film used in the layered safety glass. Our '73
Winnebago has this nice soft fuzz around the edges of the big flat
windshield sections from a silicone "repair" many years ago.
I suppose I best look and see if the glazing in the skylight is single thick
panes or laminates. Anybody know when "safety" glazing first came into use
and if it was used in skylight apps?
-----Original Message-----
From: The listserv that Ruth calls "Pluto's spider-hole."
[mailto:[log in to unmask]] On Behalf Of Hammarberg,
Eric
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 2:46 PM
To: [log in to unmask]
Subject: Re: [BP] And now for something completely different
Rudy,
Actually I would recommend a neutral cure silicone, especially with metal
and glass. They have a longer lifespan than urethanes. You can also consider
weather sealing with a low modulus sealant or structural glazing with a
higher modulus. Depends on your situation.
Good luck
Eric Hammarberg, Assoc. AIA
Vice President
Thornton Tomasetti
51 Madison Avenue
New York, NY 10010
T 917.661.7800 F 917.661.7801
D 917.661.8160
[log in to unmask]
-----Original Message-----
From: Rudy Christian [mailto:[log in to unmask]]
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 2:15 PM
To: [log in to unmask]
Subject: Re: [BP] And now for something completely different
Thanx Eric,
Can you be more elaborate about the glazing sealant. I'm aware silicone is a
bad no-no. What sealant(s) would you recommend?
-----Original Message-----
From: The listserv that Ruth calls "Pluto's spider-hole."
[mailto:[log in to unmask]] On Behalf Of Hammarberg,
Eric
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 1:20 PM
To: [log in to unmask]
Subject: Re: [BP] And now for something completely different
In my experience either glazing putty or glazing sealant will work but I
think sealant is better since it is elastomeric and can absorbe the
different expansion rates of the steel and glass. The various pieces of
formed sheet metal are usually done by the shop fabricating, or in your
situation, restoring it. Here in NYC there are still a bunch of guys making
sheet metal skylights.
Eric
-----Original Message-----
From: Rudy Christian [mailto:[log in to unmask]]
Sent: Tue Oct 03 12:35:27 2006
To: [log in to unmask]
Subject: [BP] And now for something completely different
...unless of course I haven't been paying attention again.
Our crew is in the process of stripping years of tar roof coating off of a
wonderful old four hipped skylight on the 1891 building we purchased in
Wooster, OH. We had talked to the local glass shop and they want to replace
it with a $17000 aluminum framed piece of modern roof window, but the more
our guys discover as they peel off years of "built-up maintenance" is that
this thing is really built well and worth preserving.
Here's the question: The frame is steel (iron?) with tin (galvanized?)
applied everywhere that the glass is supported. The frame has tin pieces
formed to cover the main frame that are all soldered at the intersections to
form a drain system both inside and out which channels both rain water and
condensation out through the tin "gutter" around the edge of the flashing
(It is curb mounted on a low pitched flat roof.) The glass panels are held
in place by formed snap on tin caps that grip the frame to hold the panels
in place.
Actually here are the questions: Does it matter what kind of glazing
compound we use since it is going on tin tracks instead of wood? Also, does
anyone know if the formed cap stock is still available since the process of
removing the glop is a time consuming nightmare?
Just thought I would ask the wisest people I know instead of the retired guy
at Lowes.
In over my head (again),
Rudy
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