-----Original Message-----
From: Ralph Walter <[log in to unmask]>
To: [log in to unmask]
<[log in to unmask]>
Date: Wednesday, October 18, 2000 12:49 PM
Subject: Re: Restoration glass


>In a message dated 10/18/2000 10:42:50 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>[log in to unmask] writes:
>
><<  Glass
> from 1880 is easy to come by.  Size may be critical however.  Let me know
if
> I can help. >>
>
>Yo, Glassman!
>
>Having wasted a ton of old (lat 19th-early 20th C) glass trying to cut it
>myself, how does one "do it" properly?  Virgin kerosene on the glass
cutter?
>
>This is a for-real question, for a change.
>
>Ralph
>

As with all things there are a few tricks.  I learned for a glass shop that
had been around for 50 years and by cutting thousands of panes of glass.

The type of cutter you use is most important.  I trained my son how to cut
glass this summer and within a day he could do it as well as I could.

The path of the cut must be clean.  I use a carbide wheeled cutter that has
a kerosene reservoir in the barrel.  When the wheel is placed on the glass
and pressure applied a valve opens and allows the kerosene the bath the
cutter as it passes over the glass.  As with many things in life you get
only one chance, to score the glass that is.  Pressure and the angle at
which the cutter is held will determine whether the score is effective and
if the break will follow the score.  This will come from practice.  Try
cutting a scrap of the material you ultimately want to cut.  You will find
the right pressure and angle.  The hardness of antique glass can vary
immensely.  I forgot to mention, always cut glass on carpet.  If the pane is
warped or curved, put the concaved side up.

Plate glass is a soft glass so you save your worn cutters that will not cut
window glass and use them for plate.  When they will not cut plate any
longer you throw them out.

If you are going to be at IPTW let me know and I can show you the cutters I
use and my technique.

Bill