http://www.prginc.com/pub-index/metals.html#WAT002

http://www.prginc.com/pub-index/metals.html#BUT023

It is very difficult to find recipies and techniques for dealing with large
surface area projects.

Bookmonger

======================

JRhodes wrote:

> I have done some reading on patination (there's a great British book on the
> subject-I don't have the title here.) for copper, bronze and brass.  I also
> have CDA data and other references, but none adequately address the
> practicalities of field application on broad surfaces of new (red) or
> slightly aged (brown) copper.
>
> I found a product just now being introduced in this country called "Nordic
> Green", and worked with John Lee, conservator extordinaire in Annapolis,
> Maryland.  He figured out what's in it and how to apply it so that it
> doesn't just weaken the established patina (if any) nor behave like a
> fragile coat of paint.  But he did come away convinced that it can both
> mask the raw material to look very much like patinated green copper while
> allowing the natural patination process to advance, actually encouraging
> the process.  The manufacturer doesn't know the tricks John knows.  Nor
> have John's findings been verified over time.
>
> One crucial point is to apply it thinly (like John Mascaro's whitwash
> advise: "If you try to do a thick one coat application, the material drys,
> cracks and peels").  The temptation is to really lay it on because it looks
> better.  Don't.
>
> And while you're mixing up dressings...try a lemonjuice (RealLemon brand
> will do) and salt mixture on badly mottled pieces of cast brass or bronze
> (like after you stripped off the paint splatters and it still looks
> bad...it'll quickly strip it down to a rosy red base so you can start all
> over again.  (This is not conservation tested, just my home brew.)  --Rev.
> Jim