Interesting topic. I agree with a lot of what has been posted, but not all.
Qualifying remark: We don't make paint for wood.
AGREE:
Prep is critical. I like the brick portion of my house a lot more than the
wood, and have banged heads with painters who won't do prep my way: Sanding.
Aggressively. Get down into the wood, especially any bare areas. Reason:
Ultraviolet light degrades wexposed wood fibers in as little as 6 weeks and
then nothing will stick to it for long, no matter how good the primer and
paint system. You have to sand deeper than the zone of UV penetration.
DISAGREE:
Paint is not just paint. As formulators we understand that there are lots of
choices we can make, each of which affects cost and performance. A typical
latex paint may have a dozen to 20 ingredients, so this is not a question of
just one ingredient, although acrylic latex is the single most costly
ingredient. If you are making ten million gallons of paint every year and
can save 38 cents a gallon on material costs, thats a lot of money, and that
drives the large paint manufacturers. Some of us have the luxury of being
able to formulate without cost compromises, but will never see those kinds
of volumes (or anything close to it).
With regard to brand, there may be more to say in regard to quality than to
brand name. A cheap product from one manufacturer probably won't be that
much better or worse than someone else's equivalent cheap line, but in most
cases, cheap paint is a bad buy. I would buy the best quality every time. I
do not underestimate paint company salesmanship, however, and would advise
being a good and skeptical consumer no matter what the name on the label or
the price on the tag.
A REALLY good latex paint could be made to sell for somewhere in the $30 to
$40 range, and you might double that if you were going to market it
aggressively. How long could it last? Ten years minimum, probably even 20
years would not be out of line, and I would agree with the comment that it
should slowly wear and soil, not suddenly peel, embrittle or discolor.
One problem with cheap latex is the use of plasticizers to impart some
flexibility. Eventually they wash out and the paint becomes brittle. A high
quality acrylic latex with flexibility built into its polymer structure will
never embrittle. I have seen 15-year-old paint films that are just as
flexible as they were 6 months after installation.
Edison Coatings, Inc.
M. P. Edison
President
3 Northwest Drive
Plainville, CT 06062
Phone: (860) 747-2220 or (800)697-8055
Fax: (860)747-2280 or (800) 697-8044
Internet: www.edisoncoatings.com
E-Mail: [log in to unmask]
---------- Original Message -----------
From: John Callan <[log in to unmask]>
To: [log in to unmask]
Sent: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 22:40:02 -0500
Subject: Re: FW: Paint is paint is paint, maybe.
> I find that if you scrape and sand and use a good
> primer and two coats, paint is paint and it lasts a good long time.
> It wears out faster when it gets a lot of abrasion...sand and ice,
> wind and rain. But you really have to scrape and prime. The good
> news is that vynl siding doesn't seem to last much longer than good paint.
>
> Them damned power-washers, I've got neighbors painting their houses
> every three years! You'd think the black stuff growing on their siding
> might be a clue. But they think I'm a lunatic 'cause I'm out there
> scraping. Well I may be a lunatic, but the areas I've finished
> painting have stayed painted.
>
> -jc
>
> On Wednesday, October 8, 2003, at 09:04 PM, Becker, Dan wrote:
>
> Is
> > there a point at which no matter the quality of the prep, a quality
> > mass market paint product isn't going to last? Mike E? For extremes,
> > do we have to specify something more suited to extremes? Is it
> > literally the cold leading to brittleness or the movement of the
> > substrate due to contraction and later expansion that leads to
> > failure? Is it the lack of elasticity in the film, or something more
> > insidious?
> >
> > I have his permission to solicit all y'all's assembled wisdom on this.
> > I don't understand why you can't get paint to stick in a town of 600
> > buildings in Idaho. I'll report back to him whatall you think.
> >
> > dan cover the world below the 50th parallel becker
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Larry Hoppe [mailto:[log in to unmask]]
> > Sent: Tue 10/7/2003 5:45 PM
> > To: [log in to unmask]
> > Cc: Ann Swanson
> > Subject: Paint is paint is paint, maybe.
> >
> > I read with interest your assessment on painting historic siding.
> > Does your data reflect information on our issue in far northern?
> > Idaho, namely, low humidity and extreme cold in winter; and snow 4' to
> > 6' deep standing most of the normal winter.
> >
> > The paint here doesn't seem to last more than a few seasons ( Five
> > years is typical) regardless of quality from what I've been advised by
> > citizens who have lived here much longer than I.
> >
> > Are there any internet resources you can recommend that our Historic
> > Preservation Commission might use to add to our self-help education
> > efforts.
> >
> > For background, the entire City of Wallace, Idaho (approximately 600
> > structures) is on the National Register of Historic Places. Thanks
> > for any info you can provide.
> >
> > Larry Hoppe
> > Chairman,
> > Planning Zoning, And
> > Historic Preservation Commission
> >
> > --
> > To terminate puerile preservation prattling among pals and the
> > uncoffee-ed, or to change your settings, go to:
> > <http://maelstrom.stjohns.edu/archives/bullamanka-pinheads.html>
> >
> >
> John Callan, Architect, Inc.
> Historic Preservation and Museum Services
> 784 Deerwood Circle
> Lino Lakes, Minnesota 55014-5433
>
> (651) 486-0890
> [log in to unmask]
------- End of Original Message -------
--
To terminate puerile preservation prattling among pals and the
uncoffee-ed, or to change your settings, go to:
<http://maelstrom.stjohns.edu/archives/bullamanka-pinheads.html>
|
