Rick,

Here's my 2 cents on this subject.

This amp is one that was really built for the Citizens Band. From the 
beginning, all of these amplifiers were sold as 10 meter amps.

While they all will work on 10 meters, some generate more distortion and 
splatter than they do power on the frequency you want.

Most of them use tv sweep tubes such as the 6lq6, 6kd6, etc. These tubes 
have gotten almost as expensive as traditional power tubes such as the 811.

You didn't say what you would be driving the amplifier with, but, if you 
have a 100 watt rig already, nobody on the band will notice if you only 
raise the power to 200 watts output.

That reminds me of one other point. Until the very late 70's or early 80's, 
the power listed for transmitters and amplifiers was the input power to the 
final tube. Thus, 300 watts input would generally mean no more than 150 
watts actual output to the antenna connector.

Unless you are a good electronics technician, or have access to one who has 
nothing else to do, save your money and buy a good ham band amplifier.

Back to the transceiver again, if you are using one of the 25 watt class 10 
meter rigs, many of the full power amplifiers will work fine at the reduced 
output caused by a 25 watt drive. I have a friend who drove a Heath SB200 
with a Uniden HR2600 for many years. Even at that level, he would get 250 
watts out of the SB200.

All he had to do to make it work was to key the amplifier manually since it 
does not have an rf keying circuit built into it. He later built such a 
circuit externally so as to not modify the amplifier.

This would also apply to solid state amps such as the Ameritron.


Mike Duke, K5XU