My information (from tradesmen) is similar to Twybil...to apply the
1/1 boiled linseed oil, but this was to add resin body to the
depleted outer fibers of wood which had been exposed or sun bleached,
not new or fully sound wood.  It's understandable why a manufacturer
would not want to confirm compatibility to another manufacturer's
product, or to someone's "home brew".  The proof is in performance
over time, and this story sounds supportive.

I also heard that raw linseed oil was the one that wouldn't dry, and
that the boiled product would cure if given a chance.  (What's the
oil used in oil paintings?)  Truthfully, though, I haven't been back
after 14 years to measure the results.

As Ross Perot said, "I'm all ears."  Keep talking.

--Jim



>Tom-
>
>While working with the National Trust Restoration Workshop, we would treat
>wood which had a surface which was friable from UV degradation but not in
>need of epoxy consolidation with the 1/1 boiled linseed application. I
>believe I first read about hte treatment in a Forest Products Lab.
>publication in 1979. In any case, I painted the weather boards on the 1900
>addition of my house (bare and friable wood which had not been painted in 40
>years prior to my purchase) following this treatment. That was 14 years ago
>and I have not had any problems with paint adhesion. I have also revisited
>several of the projects which we did at the Trust Workshop, and there do not
>appear to be any problems with paint adhesion. As far as I am aware, there is
>no chemical bonding of paint to wood, but mechanical adhesion, which is why
>paint will fail on a friable surface. Hope this helps (or at least stirs up a
>discussion).
>
>Twybil