At recent program on exterior wood conservation & protection, John Stauffer
of the Rohm & Hass Paint Quality Institute
([log in to unmask])advised that linseed oil is yellowing and
supports the growth of mildew.  I agree that BM advice seems solid enough.
The oil primer should contain a mildewcide, and the BM primer is formulated
to penetrate the wood and bond well.  General advice at the conference was
to use 100% acrylic latex finish coats. (R & H is the main source of top
quality acrylic!).  BM use vinyl acrylic.  I asked BM why and they maintain
it binds better to pre-existing coatings which are beginning to chalk.   The
main advice at the conference was 1) good detailing 2) good preparation,
with the emphasis on cleaning, mildew removal, sanding exposed wood and
paint (60 grit) and feathering all existing paint edges, 3) right paint
system and 4) good product, in descending order of importance.
-----Original Message-----
From: Gray, Tom [mailto:[log in to unmask]]
Sent: Thursday, November 11, 1999 4:42 PM
To: [log in to unmask]
Subject: BOILED LINSEED OIL/SOLVENT PRETREATMENT


OK y'all, it's time to call in the panel of experts!!!!   I speced the paint
job on my c1903 trim in Little Rock for scrape, treat with 1/1 boiled
linseed oil/mineral spirits, alkyd prime, 2 acrylic topcoats.  Now the Benj
Moore dealer tells me that it: 1. won't dry, 2. will defeat the primer's
bond with the wood, 3. cause unbonding, 4. cause mildew problems, (think
there were acouple more horrors related but can't recall right now).    Says
with proper prep the SuperSpec line should last 12-15 years (implication is
I'm on my own if I don't follow dealer's advice).  So far the scraped wood
is not dry and gray like I had expected, does that affect the need for the
1/1 solution?  I don't have time to try a small scale demo and wait any
input will be MUCH APPRECIATED!!!    I do have time to try demo on my other
house and you can be GD sure I'm gonna DO IT!!!!

Confuzzed Cuz