Scott,

I think you could look at those fiberglass masts for a support for your 
dipole also.  YOu will probably need to support either pole somehow.

I remember also building a 18-foot mast out of three 2 by 4's.  I think we 
had twelve footers.

Construction is to use two of them in parallel.  Cut about two feet or so 
off the third one, and cut that section into something like 4-inch long 
pieces.  Using those little sections, place them evenly between the two long 
2 by 4's for the first 8 feet or so.  Use long nails to hold the three 
pieces of wood together.

On the open end of the two 2 by 4's, feed the remaining shorter section in 
as far as it will go and nail as before.

I drilled a hole in the top of the single 2 by 4 and mounted a pulley to 
raise and lower the antenna.  The hole section would go in a posthole with a 
bag of ReadyMix to hold it.

Another thing that I had in the front of my old house was just a regular 
1.5-inch water pipe cemented in the ground.

Lots of ways to devise supports for wire though.  I have two TV masts, the 
kind that nest together in the backyard clamped to the fence with a couple 
hose clamps; and in the front is a nice convenient tree for the other end.

Steve, K8SP
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott Howell" <[log in to unmask]>
To: <[log in to unmask]>
Sent: Friday, December 23, 2011 9:25 PM
Subject: Re: PL259 crimp and solder connectors - question on how


> TOm,
>
> Please I would appreciate the list. I was actually at RF COnnections =
> today and tried recalling stuff from my mind. I should know better and =
> just use my iPhone to store my shopping list.
> Only thing I am not sure he will have are masts for the antenna.
> My friend believes Aluminum would work best and be durable. We are =
> thinking that three masts for the diple will work best. Two at 15 and =
> one at 20 feet. I imagine having these shipped would be expensive. grin
>
> 73
> Scott/N3BYY
>
> On Dec 23, 2011, at 8:18 PM, Tom Behler wrote:
>
>>    Scott:
>>=20
>> If you'd like a list of the stripping tools, coax crimp/solder tool, =
> and=20
>> connectors I just ordered from The RF Connection, let me know, and =
> I'll be=20
>> happy to forward it to you.
>>=20
>> I also have the phone number for The RF Connection if you'd like.
>>=20
>> Steve and Ed are giving you great advice on how to proceed from there.
>>=20
>> Hopefully, in the next few days, I'll be able to report on my new =
> soldering=20
>> ventures myself here.
>>=20
>> 73 from Tom Behler: KB8TYJ
>>=20
>> ----- Original Message -----=20
>> From: "Ed Malmgren" <[log in to unmask]>
>> To: <[log in to unmask]>
>> Sent: Friday, December 23, 2011 7:37 PM
>> Subject: Re: PL259 crimp and solder connectors - question on how
>>=20
>>=20
>>> Scott, I cut the center conductor flush with the end of the pin and =
> solder
>>> with a Weller gun...If you get one of the coax strippers it will make =
> life
>>> easier and also one of the cutters like plyers which does not flatten =
> the
>>> center when cutting.  Also like Steve says, use a file to knock off a =
> bit=20
>>> of
>>> too much solder.   Good luck and 73.
>>> Ed   K7UC
>>>=20
>>> --------------------------------------------------
>>> From: "Scott Howell" <[log in to unmask]>
>>> Sent: Friday, December 23, 2011 4:56 PM
>>> To: <[log in to unmask]>
>>> Subject: PL259 crimp and solder connectors - question on how
>>>=20
>>>> Hi all,
>>>>=20
>>>> Well subject pretty much says it all. I have never used these =3D
>>>> connectors, but I purchased them and the proper tool for crimping. =3D=
>
>>>> However, here are a few questions:
>>>>=20
>>>> 1. I assume there is a neat trick to removing the jacket without =3D
>>>> trashing the braid and tips appreciated. THis was one of those =
> things I =3D
>>>> never quite mastered. I could do it, but seems I was more prone to =3D=
>
>>>> nicking the braid.
>>>> 2. I understand I remove just enough jacket to fit the end of the =3D
>>>> connector such that the braid covers the um ring. Once that is done =
> I =3D
>>>> would slide the outer ring/feral over the braid and then crimp.
>>>> 3. To solder the tip I was told that a 40 watt iron should get the =
> job =3D
>>>> done and the goal is to have slid the center conductor up into the =
> tip =3D
>>>> so it is not sticking out necessarily, but is just about even. Then =
> I =3D
>>>> need to feed a little solder down in the hole to keep the center =3D
>>>> conductor in contact with the center tip.
>>>>=20
>>>> So does that about get it?
>>>>=20
>>>> tnx
>>>> 73
>>>> Scott/N3BYY
>>>=20