yep very similar to how I learned as well.
I am self taught, if that is possible.
I don't use plyers anymore because for some things they create too much of a
heat sink and the component or wire doesn't get hot enough to melt the
solder properly, thus causing a cold solder joint.
For things that aren't adverse to an extra heat sink, i use a bench vice to
hold the components and this works well.
I have heavy callases on my left hand from playing guitar, so i can touch
the hot parts for short periods without burning or pain.
This said, i am limited.  for instance, i find soldering those multi-pin
jacks where there are 8 pins all tight together a real challenge.  I tend to
use too much solder and it usually ends up shorting pins together when i
don't want them to be.
I think the wahl cold solder iron, which only gets hot when you short the
tip peaces together on a metal surface might be a great tool for small tight
work.
I use a couple other methods as well...holding the soldering iron/pen in my
teeth to keep it in one place while i use both hands.
 placing the handle of the iron in a vice and bringing the components to it,
such as when i'm splicing wires.
I also use a heavy duty glass jar to set the iron in while i'm not using it
and it is still hot.
I can't say how many times I have knocked the silly thing off the desk or
table and onto a foot or the floor while i'm working.  the glass jar
prevents this from happening, and prevents accidental burns as well.
There are a few really great articles on soldering as a blind person, from
the smith kettlewell institutes magazine that used to circulate.
I may have the URL for all the articles in my favorites...if i do i'll post
the links up here.
I think there were 3 in total and they were all very informative and
helpful.
Another thing is having the right tip on the iron or gun.  If the tip is too
large, you can heat up portions of the work that will melt and cause
problems.  If it is too small, you won't get enough heat transfer and the
solder won't melt quickly or properly.
When soldering small contacts, a very small tip works best.  when soldering
big stuff, like the tip of a PL259 connecter, you need a big tip that will
transfer lots of heat and melt the heavy solder that you have to use.
Of course, the best thing to use with a pl259 is a flame torch....something
with a very very narrow flame and that gets really hot...you can get them
from nearly any hardware store...they take a regular lighter, sanns the
flint.
anyway, i'll see if i can find those articles if no one beats me to it.
73
Colin, V A6BKX
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Miller" <[log in to unmask]>
To: <[log in to unmask]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 8:02 PM
Subject: Re: function box project update


>
> Actually, no one would show me how, luckily my fingers are so tough they
> don't burn easy but really, I started by holding my work with needle nose
> pliers and just following them to the work until I got comfortable. I'm
not
> saying I'm great at it, but I have seen a lot worse jobs than mine and
I've
> even done a few PL-259 connectors that looked professional. If I could
only
> do it consistently I'd be happier with it but oh well. I like being able
to
> do that stuff for myself but it's not for everyone, even some sighted
people
> won't touch it, some for good reason, others have never tried.
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "CHRISTOPHER SCHULTE" <[log in to unmask]>
> To: <[log in to unmask]>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 9:52 PM
> Subject: Re: function box project update
>
>
> > That has to be the one thing that as a ham, I feel ashamed to admit I
> > don't
> > know how to do is solder.
> >
> > I got my license back in 1996 through studying a "Now You're Talking"
book
> > that I purchased through radio shack and someone reading it to me over
and
> > over again.  I have never taken the time to learn how to solder, and to
be
> > quite honest, I'm a little afraid of burning my fingers in trying.  How
> > did
> > people on this list learn to do this?  Were there just sighted Elmers
that
> > were patient enough to bear with the mistakes?
> >
> > 73,
> > Chris, w8cjs
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Colin McDonald" <[log in to unmask]>
> > To: <[log in to unmask]>
> > Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 9:07 PM
> > Subject: function box project update
> >
> >
> >> hey all:
> >> well, so far, I am making good progress.
> >> I found out that the 22K and 100K resisters from pin 3 and pin 4 to
> >> ground
> >> on the mike jack, do indeed control all four PF buttons, on the ts2000
> >> and
> >> tm455 anyway.
> >> And of course, the same without a resister controls the up/down
> >> functions.
> >> So, we have that question out of the way.  Now, I wonder if its
> >> universal.
> >> I suspect that if it works on the ts-2000, its probably going to work
on
> >> any
> >> of the other kenwood radios that utilize the mc45DM or utilize pf keys.
> >> I mean, the instructions i got were for a TM455, which i believe is an
> >> older
> >> radio?
> >>
> >> So, now it is just a matter of putting everything together.  That is,
> >> soldering up all the connections with resisters, and mounting the
> >> switches
> >> and connecter in the project box...and then the most fun, soldering an
8
> >> wire cat5 cable to the 8 pin microphone connecter....yay.
> >> I am willing to bet that the electronics place i went to the other day
> >> will
> >> make up custom cables for a not too exorbadant cost.
> >> Perhaps i'll get them to solder those tiny little things instead of me
> >> fighting with it.
> >> 73
> >> Colin, V A6BKX
> >>
> >
>
>
>
> -- 
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