A friend of mine was over one day and I had to do a quick part replacement
job on a guitar before we left to go rehearse.
For allot of this job i had to hold the iron's handle in my teeth so i could
use both hands...he was at first agast, then concerned, then amazed, and at
the end of it, couldn't believe that I had completed the job
satisfactorally.
I think that he thought i was just trying to impress him or something when
I said I was going to fix that guitar.
Of course, this is the same guy that just about fell over the first time I
went to a gig with him, and set up the entire PA and instruments while he
ran around trying to figure out what to do.
Now i just use him for a willing set of eyes to check clipping lights and
run down cable ends when i don't have the time to follow them.
He is one of those sighted people that John mentioned who can't, and won't
solder and shouldn't get within 5 feet of a soldering iron.
73
Colin, V A6BKX
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Miller" <[log in to unmask]>
To: <[log in to unmask]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 9:16 PM
Subject: Re: function box project update
>
> I agree on the pliers but it was a good way to start. It sounds like you
> have a lot of the same methods I use.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Colin McDonald" <[log in to unmask]>
> To: <[log in to unmask]>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 11:04 PM
> Subject: Re: function box project update
>
>
> > yep very similar to how I learned as well.
> > I am self taught, if that is possible.
> > I don't use plyers anymore because for some things they create too much
of
> > a
> > heat sink and the component or wire doesn't get hot enough to melt the
> > solder properly, thus causing a cold solder joint.
> > For things that aren't adverse to an extra heat sink, i use a bench vice
> > to
> > hold the components and this works well.
> > I have heavy callases on my left hand from playing guitar, so i can
touch
> > the hot parts for short periods without burning or pain.
> > This said, i am limited. for instance, i find soldering those multi-pin
> > jacks where there are 8 pins all tight together a real challenge. I
tend
> > to
> > use too much solder and it usually ends up shorting pins together when i
> > don't want them to be.
> > I think the wahl cold solder iron, which only gets hot when you short
the
> > tip peaces together on a metal surface might be a great tool for small
> > tight
> > work.
> > I use a couple other methods as well...holding the soldering iron/pen in
> > my
> > teeth to keep it in one place while i use both hands.
> > placing the handle of the iron in a vice and bringing the components to
> > it,
> > such as when i'm splicing wires.
> > I also use a heavy duty glass jar to set the iron in while i'm not using
> > it
> > and it is still hot.
> > I can't say how many times I have knocked the silly thing off the desk
or
> > table and onto a foot or the floor while i'm working. the glass jar
> > prevents this from happening, and prevents accidental burns as well.
> > There are a few really great articles on soldering as a blind person,
from
> > the smith kettlewell institutes magazine that used to circulate.
> > I may have the URL for all the articles in my favorites...if i do i'll
> > post
> > the links up here.
> > I think there were 3 in total and they were all very informative and
> > helpful.
> > Another thing is having the right tip on the iron or gun. If the tip is
> > too
> > large, you can heat up portions of the work that will melt and cause
> > problems. If it is too small, you won't get enough heat transfer and
the
> > solder won't melt quickly or properly.
> > When soldering small contacts, a very small tip works best. when
> > soldering
> > big stuff, like the tip of a PL259 connecter, you need a big tip that
will
> > transfer lots of heat and melt the heavy solder that you have to use.
> > Of course, the best thing to use with a pl259 is a flame
> > torch....something
> > with a very very narrow flame and that gets really hot...you can get
them
> > from nearly any hardware store...they take a regular lighter, sanns the
> > flint.
> > anyway, i'll see if i can find those articles if no one beats me to it.
> > 73
> > Colin, V A6BKX
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "John Miller" <[log in to unmask]>
> > To: <[log in to unmask]>
> > Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 8:02 PM
> > Subject: Re: function box project update
> >
> >
> >>
> >> Actually, no one would show me how, luckily my fingers are so tough
they
> >> don't burn easy but really, I started by holding my work with needle
nose
> >> pliers and just following them to the work until I got comfortable. I'm
> > not
> >> saying I'm great at it, but I have seen a lot worse jobs than mine and
> > I've
> >> even done a few PL-259 connectors that looked professional. If I could
> > only
> >> do it consistently I'd be happier with it but oh well. I like being
able
> > to
> >> do that stuff for myself but it's not for everyone, even some sighted
> > people
> >> won't touch it, some for good reason, others have never tried.
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: "CHRISTOPHER SCHULTE" <[log in to unmask]>
> >> To: <[log in to unmask]>
> >> Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 9:52 PM
> >> Subject: Re: function box project update
> >>
> >>
> >> > That has to be the one thing that as a ham, I feel ashamed to admit I
> >> > don't
> >> > know how to do is solder.
> >> >
> >> > I got my license back in 1996 through studying a "Now You're Talking"
> > book
> >> > that I purchased through radio shack and someone reading it to me
over
> > and
> >> > over again. I have never taken the time to learn how to solder, and
to
> > be
> >> > quite honest, I'm a little afraid of burning my fingers in trying.
How
> >> > did
> >> > people on this list learn to do this? Were there just sighted Elmers
> > that
> >> > were patient enough to bear with the mistakes?
> >> >
> >> > 73,
> >> > Chris, w8cjs
> >> > ----- Original Message -----
> >> > From: "Colin McDonald" <[log in to unmask]>
> >> > To: <[log in to unmask]>
> >> > Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 9:07 PM
> >> > Subject: function box project update
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >> hey all:
> >> >> well, so far, I am making good progress.
> >> >> I found out that the 22K and 100K resisters from pin 3 and pin 4 to
> >> >> ground
> >> >> on the mike jack, do indeed control all four PF buttons, on the
ts2000
> >> >> and
> >> >> tm455 anyway.
> >> >> And of course, the same without a resister controls the up/down
> >> >> functions.
> >> >> So, we have that question out of the way. Now, I wonder if its
> >> >> universal.
> >> >> I suspect that if it works on the ts-2000, its probably going to
work
> > on
> >> >> any
> >> >> of the other kenwood radios that utilize the mc45DM or utilize pf
> >> >> keys.
> >> >> I mean, the instructions i got were for a TM455, which i believe is
an
> >> >> older
> >> >> radio?
> >> >>
> >> >> So, now it is just a matter of putting everything together. That
is,
> >> >> soldering up all the connections with resisters, and mounting the
> >> >> switches
> >> >> and connecter in the project box...and then the most fun, soldering
an
> > 8
> >> >> wire cat5 cable to the 8 pin microphone connecter....yay.
> >> >> I am willing to bet that the electronics place i went to the other
day
> >> >> will
> >> >> make up custom cables for a not too exorbadant cost.
> >> >> Perhaps i'll get them to solder those tiny little things instead of
me
> >> >> fighting with it.
> >> >> 73
> >> >> Colin, V A6BKX
> >> >>
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> --
> >> No virus found in this incoming message.
> >> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> >> Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.4/1313 - Release Date:
3/5/2008
> > 9:50 AM
> >>
> >>
> >
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.4/1313 - Release Date: 3/5/2008
9:50 AM
>
>
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