I have an old dell desktop XPS 8400, operating system Win 7, that is no longer usable. I have replaced it with a new dell desktop XPS 8930, operating system Win 10. I removed the hard drive from the old computer and installed it in an external enclosure and was able to copy all my files via the USB connection. What the problem is, there is a graphics program, CS2, on the old drive that will not open using this USB connection. I have the original CD but cannot complete the installation because the company will no longer
Donald DeWitt composed on 2018-06-01 16:56 (UTC-0400):
> I have an old dell desktop XPS 8400, operating system Win 7, that is no > longer usable.
What makes it "no longer usable"? Did its low-cost X300 video quit? If so, equivalent used replacements are usually available from eBay. Any of X300, X600 or X800 should work using the already installed driver. I have several X600 in use. Bad RAM can be replaced when RAM is the problem. Same for the power supply. If the motherboard has bad caps, it can be refurbed either by a local electronics expert, or by
Adobe released CS2 version 9 to the public. Get a copy and install it.
Peter Shkabara [log in to unmask]
-----Original Message----- From: Donald DeWitt [mailto:[log in to unmask]] Sent: Friday, June 1, 2018 1:56 PM Subject: Hard Drive Question
Dear Members
I have an old dell desktop XPS 8400, operating system Win 7, that is no longer usable. I have replaced it with a new dell desktop XPS 8930, operating system Win 10. I removed the hard drive from the old computer and installed it in an external enclosure and was able to copy all my files via the USB connection. What the problem is,
Thank you Peter for clarifying the CS2 situation. Apparently I got caught by the sites that indicated that it was released for free distribution. I owned an earlier product and replaced it with CS2 "free download". Sorry for passing on apparently misleading information.
Incidentally, CS2 does seem to run with no problems on Windows 10 pro - at least on my system. I did stop using it in favor of the open license program GIMP which I seem to get along with better!
On my computer, when I click on a link in an email it opens Internet Explorer and takes me to that site. On my wife's computer, nothing happens when she clicks on a link.
I have no idea what setting causes mine to respond and hers not to. Any help, please?
On Fri, Sep 15, 2017 at 10:50 AM, Dean Kukral wrote:
> On my computer, when I click on a link in an email it opens Internet > Explorer and takes me to that site. On my wife's computer, nothing > happens when she clicks on a link. > > I have no idea what setting causes mine to respond and hers not to. > Any help, please? > > email - Mozella Thunderbird > > browser - Internet Explorer > > o.s. - Windows 7 > > > Dean Kukral > >
You did not say which e-mail program you are using. Some e-mail programs have a setting for associating links with a specific browser.
or the browser on your wife's computer is not set as default program for Internet links.
From Microsoft help:
Open Default Programs by clicking the Start button and then clicking Default Programs. Click Associate a file type or protocol with a program. Click the file type or protocol that you want the program to act as the default for. Click Change program. Click the program that you want to use as the default for the
Excellent reply. I've only one win pic left and find I'm left behind when people ask me to fix their windows problems. Stephen
Sent from my iPad
> On 15 Sep 2017, at 16:10, Peter Ekkerman <[log in to unmask]> wrote: > > Hi Dean, > > Try this > > https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/175775/nothing-happens-when-you-click-a-link-in-internet-explorer > > Peter E. > >> On Fri, Sep 15, 2017 at 10:50 AM, Dean Kukral wrote: >> >> On my computer, when I click on a link in an email it opens Internet >> Explorer and takes me to that site. On my wife's computer, nothing >> happens when she
IE 8 will on many web pages say diagnose internet connection.
I can do a web search and get to many sites, but most links as well as many sites throw up this message. This problem does not happen in firefox at all.
I have run Spybot Search and Destroy, combo Fix, released everything with ipconfig, used net sh int ip reset, used netsh winsock reset, re installed IE 8, made sure all the ssh and ftp and https were accepted by IE. Combofix scarily deleted from C:\windows\msi31uninstall_kn89380v2$\reg 00013 though 116
Thanks for the information--hmm two computers are just about Pentium 4 and the latest Avast anti-virus version which is supposed to be compatible with XP wigged out two machines bring them to a stand-still with the latest Avast version. Funny thing, in the forums, there was not in the main page, but a side link saying if you have xp, win 7, win 8, etc--click the appropriate one to download the exe file. When I checked them, they all had the same version number as the one the main screen
cubbettee cubbettee composed on 2017-06-14 19:34 (UTC):
> How can I determine if my CPU has the SSE2 instruction set? . > I know that a Pentium 3 or less does not . Pentium 4 and P4-based Celeron and newer from Intel have it. Athlon and 32 bit Sempron do not have it. Athlon64 and 64 bit Sempron and newer from AMD do have it.
My good friend has had an Acer V3 571G laptop on which the power connector has broken, so I'm giving her my used Acer V17. But I'm stuck at copying her files from the old computer to the new...
My plan was to pull the dive from the V3, plug it into a SATA/USB adapter, and plug that into a USB port on the V17.
I think it's just three screws, then pull back and up. Is it just a little stiff or was it modified? I don't think this list allows URLs, but I've included one below with teardown images and instructions.
They are all digital signals, so there isn't going to be much difference if any. The main difference is that HDMI and DP can also carry audio.
Russ Poffenberger PCBuild Senior Contributor
On 5/1/2017 6:01 PM, Brad Feuerhelm wrote: > Hey all > > I have a AOC 27" 144hz 1ms gaming monitor. It has Displayport, HDMI, and > DVI (Dual-Link) > > I was wondering if someone knows if there is any real difference which > output I use? > > Is one better than the others or are they pretty much the same? > > Thanks
I tend to run everything I can on HDMI if possible. I recently had occasion to look at the Display port option as it's required for running 3 monitors on AMD systems.
In terms of differences you can detect visually, with aging eyes, not much. A better monitor helps the most.
Many years ago, there was a freeware program called NextStep - an application launcher toolbar that looked like the one used by the Next OS. I have a copy of the shareware version, but can't register it because the author no longer accepts registration for this program.
Does anyone have a copy of the earlier, freeware version? Google search resulted in nothing useful other than that the author replaced the simple toolbar with a more elaborate desktop utility called HoverDesk, which I am not interested in.
I looked at Binsearch.info, a site notorious for contaminated and other unfriendly software. There is a 2013 version of a program called Next_Step posted in October of 2014. It is about 84 Mb. I scanned it with Defender and received no warnings. It might be what you want. Please be careful.
-----Original Message----- From: Personal Computer Hardware discussion List [mailto:[log in to unmask]] On Behalf Of Peter Shkabara Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2017 11:07 AM To: [log in to unmask] Subject: [PCBUILD] Nextstep program
I usually use it plugged in, but it would sometimes be nice not to have to. When the PC first arrived, positioning the cursor over the battery icon in the system tray would produce the message "No battery detected". Since it was a refurb, I was only a little disappointed to think that it had come without a battery installed -- I hunted on eBay and found an aftermarket battery for this model.... I was surprised to find, when I went to install my new battery, that there was in fact something installed in the battery socket, something labelled as
If it is Dell, this may help: Please remove the battery and ac adaptor. Then press and hold the power button for 15 seconds. Now wait for 2 minutes. Please reconnect the battery and ac adaptor and power on the system.
If that does not help and/or it is not a Dell, you might try this:
Sorry to hear of your problems. In my experience, when you buy a replacement battery, it is already charged. If this is the case, it would seem that the power is not getting delivered to your laptop. There is a battery level detection mechanism in laptops that will shut it down when the battery gets too low. This system needs to be calibrated by letting the battery run down completely and then get recharged. It is possible that in your case the shutdown kicks in before the laptop even starts. Just a thought. Perhaps others might have more
Make sur the jack isn't broken off the board. Sometimes you can move it and get a quick notice that is what it is. Place called laptop jacks has most of them.
Sent from my iPad
> On Oct 26, 2016, at 10:02 AM, Peter Shkabara <[log in to unmask]> wrote: > > Hi David, > > Sorry to hear of your problems. In my experience, when you buy a replacement battery, it is already charged. If this is the case, it would seem that the power is not getting delivered to your laptop. There is a battery level detection mechanism in laptops
I have an ASUS Essentio and I upgraded from 4GB to 8GB of memory a couple of days ago. The computer registered the memory no problem and seemed to be working fine.
Yesterday It shut down for an upgrade and now I'm getting a BSOD with different error messages each time I try and restart it. One of them said memory management error and that made me wonder is it possible that the memory is causing a problem after two days of working fine or is it just the upgrade?
I don't have an explanation for your failure, but if memory is suspected, remove the new memory and try booting with the original memory in place. That should answer the question as to whether the new RAM is the problem.
Good luck.
Peter Shkabara [log in to unmask]
-----Original Message----- From: ceares [mailto:[log in to unmask]] Sent: Friday, September 30, 2016 8:58 AM Subject: memory question
Thanks, after multiple frustrated attempts I finally did remove it and the computer is working fine now. While I can install memory(or thought I could) I'm not really that familiar with it. Does this happen-working okay and then failing or does it usually fail right away if it is going to. I'm going to return the memory but I don't know if I should try exchanging it or just get a refund if for some reason the computer is just rejecting new memory.
All transistor devices have what is known as "infant mortality," which means they will probably fail early in life if there is a defect, but then last a long time with clean power.
Often if you have more than one stick of memory (they frequently come in fours), then you can remove one at a time and find the faulty one through trial and error.
If the original RAM can be replaced with the new RAM, you might try doing so to check if the problem is with incompatible RAM or a problem of RAM addition configuration. If the computer does not boot with the RAM substitution, then look for some compatible RAM. If it does boot ok, then the problem must be with system configuration someplace. Be sure that the new RAM and old RAM have the same timing specs.
I've been looking and can't decide if Radeon or Geforce is better at rendering in Vegas Pro 12
I've been looking at the Radeon 480 with 4gig or the Geforce 1060 with 4gig. I might be able to go to the 8gig model if I can find a good price for it.
I find Tom's hardware to have some of the most complete reviews of what is happening in the video card market.
Vincent Winterling Vineland, NJ
> -----Original Message----- > From: Personal Computer Hardware discussion List > [mailto:[log in to unmask]] On Behalf Of Brad Feuerhelm > Sent: Friday, September 23, 2016 11:07 PM > To: [log in to unmask] > Subject: Radeon or Geforce > > Hey all, > > I'm in the market to upgrade my video card. > > Right now I have a Geforce 430 with 1gig mem.. > > I've been looking and can't decide if Radeon or Geforce is better at
I have a laptop that came with Windows 7 Professional 64-bit, which I am trying to upgrade to Windows 10 via he Accessability program (Thanks fr the tip, Russ!)... I had to abort the first atempt after about 12 hours, apparently with no harm done. My second attempt has been showing "99% complete" for about 72 hours so far. How much longer should I wait for it to complete? David Gillrtt
Same symptoms as you have with a fix for it. You might like to sign up for his newsletter.
Regards Terry Bartlett
On 27/08/2016 15:25, [log in to unmask] wrote:
> I have a laptop that came with Windows 7 Professional 64-bit, which I > am trying to upgrade to Windows 10 via he Accessability program (Thanks > fr the tip, Russ!)... > I had to abort the first atempt after about 12 hours, apparently with > no harm done. My second attempt has been showing "99% complete" for > about 72 hours so far. How much longer
I wouldn't even try. A laptop with W7 is probably about 5 years old, well beyond the average life of its hard drive. Unless that has already been replaced, it probably has so many bad sectors that any such upgrade is likely to be doomed to failure.
Upgrading from W8 isn't so bad, because the internal structure is not so dissimilar, so less hassles in copying the settings over.
Welcome to the Microsoft upgrade world David! I have done several Win 10 upgrades which took from about an hour to maybe 3 hours. Something went wrong in your upgrade. I too have had that happen. Trying it again would usually fix the problem. Unfortunately, I don’t have any fix for you to try.
My thanks to all who responded; it appears that it was indeed the Winows Update service conflicting with the Win10 upgrade process after the download. Other notes: I did several of the regular free updates without incident or difficulty. I've now subscribed to the Info Packets newsletter. It proved useful on this, and is likely to again. Someone suggested that the laptop might be approaching the end of its hard drive's life. I didn't mention that after the OS upgrade, I plan to replace the 320GB hard drive with a 500GB SSD, son this shouldn't be a factor. David Gillett
This is an update to my Win 10 update disaster. I "fixed" my immediate problem by rolling back to my previous version of Windows and all is running ok now. Still, it raises the question of how to do an individual file restore from a Windows backup in Win 10. Also note that some programs do not run under the newly released version of Win 10 (Version 1601 I think). I am now back to version 1511 and thing seem fine for now.
I am writing to ask the experts why they are upgrading to Win 10 at all.
I am running Win 7 32bit and it is very stable. Why move to a less mature OS from a known reliable OS? I must be missing something here so that is why I am asking.
I upgraded to see if I liked Windows 10. It turns out that I do. I still have my valid Windows 7 licenses. I can put Windows 7 back on my computers any time I like. Since the upgrade was free I saw no reason not to check it out.
Michael, This is merely my experience, so take it with a grain of salt. Technically speaking, Windows 10 has been out for a year and the release of the Anniversary Update was so supposed shore up some things and add new features. To give a personal example, it appears to be like when I ran Windows XP. It was fine when first released but Service Pack 1 fixed some bugs added a few options to the management side, that the average home user probably never touched. Windows 10 actually seems to be made for a PC desktop, unlike Windows 8
I too just a short time ago upgraded to Win 10. I didn't have any progs disappear on me. They are all still there just Win 10 doesn't show them. You have to go hunt for them as I did on a few progs. Then I just created new shortcuts. I did run into about 4 progs I had to upgrade, for them to run in Win 10 though. So far I haven't had too many SERIOUS problems. But if things get much worse though I will be rolling back to Win 7. By the way Win 7 has about
In my view it's one of Microsoft's best efforts. I'm running 10 on about 6 or so machines here, laptops, desktops, some new, some old by computer standards. It runs fine.
Some folks wed themselves to various operating systems and resist upgrading. So be it. Use what you like. Others of us are interested in innovation and want the bleeding edge. Plus, Microsoft provided it for free. What's not to like?
I had no problems upgrading from Windows 7 to Windows 10 on my laptop. The problem I had with deleted files was when I "upgraded" my desktop from the original Windows 10 to the just released "Anniversary Edition" of Windows 10. Indeed, it deleted not only some files, but deleted an entire directory from my Program Files area. I had to roll back to the previous install, which fortunately went smoothly. I also found that some programs that I use will not run on the Anniversary edition. So user beware!
I've a win 10 PC which I use for online tv etc. My main laptop is win 7 ultimate only because of office for my committe's use. Only 2 win machines I have. Rest r Linux and I use the others for serious programs and gaming. Had to fix a win 8 laptop the other day. Awful os but u get what u buy unless it's Linux 👍👌
Going the download assistant route produced repeated installation errors for me. I did not lose programs or folders.
I next made the USB installer using the Microsoft Media Creation Tool. Using the USB installer has been successful in several installs. I don’t know if it’s a functional variable but I decline updates when asked during the early part of the upgrade.
First a WARNING. Today I made the mistake of updating my Windows 10 to the "new" Windows 10. In the "upgrade" it deleted many of my programs without asking. It did report that it deleted CCleaner and another program because they were "not compatible" - but it also deleted some of the programs that I wrote myself and run just fine under win 10.
That’s odd Peter that you lost programs. I’ve been an Insider and performed 25 upgrades during the beta period and not one altered the installed programs.
Where are the backups located? On an external?
Some backup programs can’t read from externals without additional components. I’ve learned this through experience with Acronis True Image. A recent upgrade to their rescue media now permits restoring from an external. Previously, Acronis could not see an image on an external.
When I installed Windows 10 as upgrade on my laptop, no programs were lost. The problem I reported here was on my Dell desktop that came with Windows 10. The programs were deleted when I "upgraded" to the anniversary edition of Windows 10 that just came out. In addition to deleting some programs, I also found that a number of programs that ran fine under original Win 10 would no longer work with the anniversary edition. I fixed my situation by rolling back the "upgrade" and it restored my previous Win 10 and my programs were back! At least that
I have recently purchased a refurbished HP ProBook laptop. (It came with 64-bit Win7 Pro, and I've missed the deadline for free upgrade to Win1o. Oh boo hoo...) Across the top of the keyboard are several special buttons. I can identify most of them -- one turns wifi on/off, and one turns the speakers on/off. But one is just labelled with a "globe" symbol, and I can't seem to find anything that will tell me what that button does. Anyone know? David Gillett CISSP CCNP
With your model number I would go to the HP Support area and download an owner's manual. Probably within the first couple of pages they will have a graphic identifying all keys and their functions.
Vincent Winterling Vineland, NJ
> -----Original Message----- > From: Personal Computer Hardware discussion List > [mailto:[log in to unmask]] On Behalf Of [log in to unmask] > Sent: Wednesday, August 3, 2016 6:28 PM > To: [log in to unmask] > Subject: HP laptop mystery button? > > > I have recently purchased a refurbished HP ProBook laptop. (It came > with 64-bit Win7 Pro, and I've missed the deadline for free upgrade to
Probably meant to be an Internet shortcut button. Has to be tied into your default browser.Dave
From: Vincent Winterling <[log in to unmask]> To: [log in to unmask] Sent: Wednesday, August 3, 2016 5:51 PM Subject: Re: [PCBUILD] HP laptop mystery button?
With your model number I would go to the HP Support area and download an owner's manual. Probably within the first couple of pages they will have a graphic identifying all keys and their functions.
> On Aug 3, 2016, at 3:27 PM, [log in to unmask] wrote: > > I have recently purchased a refurbished HP ProBook laptop. (It came > with 64-bit Win7 Pro, and I've missed the deadline for free upgrade to > Win1o. Oh boo hoo...) > Across the top of the keyboard are several special buttons. I can > identify most of them -- one turns wifi on/off, and one
I'm pretty sure that, as has been said, it would normally open the default browser, however, I'm guessing that the driver/service that handles its being pressed is either disabled, or not installed.
On Wednesday, August 3, 2016, <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
> I have recently purchased a refurbished HP ProBook laptop. (It came > with 64-bit Win7 Pro, and I've missed the deadline for free upgrade to > Win1o. Oh boo hoo...) > Across the top of the keyboard are several special buttons. I can > identify most of them -- one turns wifi on/off, and one turns the > speakers on/off.
I want to build a computer and I'm thinking on buying the following components: AMD FX 8350 Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO PNY Anarchy 8GB DDR3 1600MHz x2 Pioneer Blu-ray drive * EVGA 500 W1 80+ Continuous Power Kingston 250 GB SSD WD 1TB HD * EVGA GeForce 8400 GS *
The things with an asterisk are things I may omit for now to save money. My main two concearns are: will the motherboard throttle the CPU? (and if so, would I receive about the same performance from the FX 6300 and same motherboard?), and will the CPU cooler be
I have the 8350. Good processor but does run warm.
I have it on a Gigabyte ultra-durable board. What motherboard were you considering?
Vincent Winterling Vineland, NJ
-----Original Message----- From: Personal Computer Hardware discussion List [mailto:[log in to unmask]] On Behalf Of Jacob Smith Sent: Friday, July 29, 2016 2:43 PM To: [log in to unmask] Subject: [PCBUILD] PC build
I want to build a computer and I'm thinking on buying the following components: AMD FX 8350 Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO PNY Anarchy 8GB DDR3 1600MHz x2 Pioneer Blu-ray drive * EVGA 500 W1 80+ Continuous Power Kingston 250 GB SSD WD 1TB HD *
Either Gigabyte GA-78LMT-USB3 or Asus M5A78L-M/USB3, sorry, it looks like I forgot to mention that in the email. I'm favoring the latter, because it supports faster memory, but it is also said to be worse for cooling.
On Sat, Jul 30, 2016 at 5:42 AM, Vincent Winterling < [log in to unmask]> wrote:
> I have the 8350. Good processor but does run warm. > > I have it on a Gigabyte ultra-durable board. What motherboard were you > considering? > > Vincent Winterling > Vineland, NJ > > -----Original Message----- > From: Personal Computer Hardware discussion List [mailto: > [log in to unmask]] On
I use these Arctic cpu coolers and I've been pleased with the quality, price, and overall effectiveness. They are super quiet and move a good volume of air.
Make sure the case you select has lots of ventilation. I'm running my 8350 in an Antec Sonata III case. Very good case cooling and together with the the Arctic cpu cooler and a fan on my video card, that works to keep the heat down but make no mistake, it's hot.
I did a Windows update the other day, about 40+ updates in all. After the update IE !! won't retain any settings. Especially my start page. It resets every time I start it up. I haven't a clue as to what update might be at fault so I'm here to see if anyone has/had the same problem. I've tried to go into internet options to set it there but no help there. If I use Firefox everything works fine. But don't really like Firefox they keep updating it constantly and my add-ons don't keep up. SO I end
I don't have an explanation for the IE behavior, but give this a try. Start IE in Administrator mode to see if this lets the settings stick. You can do this by right clicking on IE icon and select run as administrator. Good luck.
Peter Shkabara [log in to unmask]
-----Original Message----- From: Brad Feuerhelm [mailto:[log in to unmask]] Sent: Monday, July 25, 2016 9:12 AM Subject: Win 7 (64bit) & IE 11
I DON'T KNOW THE ANSWER TO YOUR PROBLEM WITH YOUR START UP BUT GOOGLE CHROME IS GREAT!! TRY IT, I THINK YOU WILL LIKE IT MUCH BETTER THAN FIREFOX AND JUST AS WELL AS IE. WandaB
-----Original Message----- From: Personal Computer Hardware discussion List [mailto:[log in to unmask]] On Behalf Of Brad Feuerhelm Sent: Monday, July 25, 2016 11:12 AM To: [log in to unmask] Subject: [PCBUILD] Win 7 (64bit) & IE 11
What is your Start Page resetting to? Is it a hijacker like About.com, or just Bing garbage? I set mine to 'about:blank'. If it is not a malware issue (run SAS and MAB in Safe Mode), then read on.
I have read nothing but horrors regarding Windows Updates out since February. The Update Agent has been updated numerous times and most of the last year's updates have been telemetry to report back to MS or patches to help fix Win 10 'upgrade' bugs. The Enterprise and Network folks on TechNet Forums are having nightmares over this. Many are foregoing Updates
Some ask what page IE would default to and that was MSN. I would reset it to my normal start page (IGHome) but as soon as I refresh or restart it would default back to MSN.
By the way I have anti-virus and anti-malware software running. I checked it out and had no problems there. I also disabled all my add ons and extensions. That didn't help either.
I use Firefox as my primary browser I also use chrome & opera. After many years of experimenting I have found Opera to be the most stable browser, I agree Firefox has a number of updates, and some Adons Stop working BRIEFLY. I only use IE for some Microsoft sights that will not open on other browsers. If I could I would uninstall IE completely. I like Firefox it is reliable as long as flash is kept current. Wanda Borup <[log in to unmask]> wrote: >I DON'T KNOW THE ANSWER TO YOUR PROBLEM WITH YOUR START UP BUT GOOGLE CHROME IS GREAT!! TRY
You can install IE Tab 2 extension for Firefox < https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/ie-tab-2-ff-36/> which will allow you to bypass IE HTH
On Fri, Jul 29, 2016 at 8:21 AM, [log in to unmask] < [log in to unmask]> wrote:
> I use Firefox as my primary browser I also use chrome & opera. After many > years of experimenting I have found Opera to be the most stable browser, I > agree Firefox has a number of updates, and some Adons Stop working BRIEFLY. > I only use IE for some Microsoft sights that will not open on other > browsers. If I could I would uninstall IE
I have an HP desktop computer and have a huge problem. I have malware or something on my computer that is taking me to sites I didn't want to go to. If I'm on a site, say Amazon, and I click on something on Amazon it takes me to some random site. What should I be doing to fix this??? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Install and run Malwarebytes: https://www.malwarebytes.com/mwb-download/
On Thu, Jul 14, 2016 at 4:18 PM, Wanda Borup <[log in to unmask]> wrote: > > I have an HP desktop computer and have a huge problem. I have malware or > something on my computer that is taking me to sites I didn't want to go to. > If I'm on a site, say Amazon, and I click on something on Amazon it takes me > to some random site. What should I be doing to fix this??? Any help will > be greatly appreciated. > > > > Sincerely, > > > > Wanda B.
Two options with all malware problems: try to remove it, which can be tedious and leave a damaged system, or reinstall Windows. If you prefer the former, as most do, I recommend using Panda free, SuperAntiSpyware, Avira, Malwarebytes, and Spybot serach and destroy (NOT 2). Try any or all of these to remove the malware.
Your browser has been hijacked. Malwarebytes or any of the malware removal programs will not undo your browser settings, so the problem will most likely remain, and the infections will probably return next time you use your browser (which is accessing your internet via malicious or spyware sites).
There are 3 steps you need to take to do a proper job of malware removal: 1. Run a scan with Malwarebytes (it's pretty much the industry standard these days) or whatever alternative malware protection you might have. Make sure it's fully updated first, as some of these malware may prevent updating
Malwarebytes can be securely downloaded from ninite.com.
Vincent Winterling Vineland, NJ
> -----Original Message----- > From: Personal Computer Hardware discussion List > [mailto:[log in to unmask]] On Behalf Of Wanda Borup > Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2016 4:19 PM > To: [log in to unmask] > Subject: [PCBUILD] HELP PLEASE!!!! > Importance: High > > I have an HP desktop computer and have a huge problem. I have malware or > something on my computer that is taking me to sites I didn't want to go to. > If I'm on a site, say Amazon, and I click on
Thank you for your time and effort. I have already run a few of these and they seem to help temporarily, then it's back to the same old story. I will try the ones you listed that I haven't tried before and see if they can solve the problem. I have no idea where I picked this up because I try to be very careful of the sites I visit. It may come do to reinstalling Windows which will be a big hassle. Again, thanks for your help! :) WandaB.
Thank you so much!! I will certainly do as you have said. If this doesn't work I guess it will be off to get it worked on somewhere. I really do appreciate the time you spent explaining this to me. :) WandaB
-----Original Message----- From: Personal Computer Hardware discussion List [mailto:[log in to unmask]] On Behalf Of 1336don . Sent: Friday, July 15, 2016 10:01 PM To: [log in to unmask] Subject: Re: [PCBUILD] HELP PLEASE!!!!
I once had computer seized by a fake FBI ransom page which froze the system. I turned it off and booted up in Safe Mode, did not see the ransom page and was able to run Malwarebytes and Avast one or both of which apparently zapped the badware.
That occured running Windows XP some years ago. So is it possible that going into Safe Mode is to be recommended?
Yes you can On Jun 21, 2016 20:36, "cubbettee cubbettee" <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
> Hello listers, > > > When you purchase a mouse, often they come with the usb to ps/2 adapter. > > Can I use that same adapter on keyboards as well? > > I do know there are splitters that use one usb and split into the > keyboard and mouse. > > > Thanks > > Cub > > PCSOFT's List Owners: > Bob Wright<[log in to unmask]> > Mark Rode<[log in to unmask]> >
Hi, my neighbour's friend's son got upgraded to Win 10 by error. Believe Win 10 was doing upgrades without asking. Anyway it's reset the system and deleted the Win 7 files. Used a Linux cd to open system and no files except 9GB in recycle bin, Can I recover this? Her tax files are in it and no backup. First thing I say have you backed up? Any help is greatly appreciated. Stephen
The Win10 upgrade doesn't delete any files, in my experience. You can roll back to Win7 any time in the first 30 days. http://www.thewindowsclub.com/rollback-from-windows-10
On Tue, Jun 21, 2016 at 3:20 PM, Stephen McManus <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
> Hi, my neighbour's friend's son got upgraded to Win 10 by error. Believe > Win 10 was doing upgrades without asking. Anyway it's reset the system and > deleted the Win 7 files. Used a Linux cd to open system and no files except > 9GB in recycle bin, Can I recover this? Her tax files are in it and no > backup.
It deletes all of your System Restore points and each time one of my Clients has tried to roll back it has been a disaster. I have used a Dell recovery program to basically start over with Win7. Even had a packet to save all docs, pics, etc. Still took too much time. If you want this tracking beta OS, download 10 from the MS website and save it to a flashdrive. Then just wait for 11. Incidentally, Win7 works really well without Windows Update running. All you need is a secure browser, secure habits, and a good paid Internet
Thanks Hugh, I'm afraid that it's longer than 30 days. I'd put in a new hard drive 6 months ago after replacing the failed disk, Did a disk and memory check; all ok. I've no real information and I work with Linux rather than Windows so I'm completely lost. The laptop freezes on 1st boot so using F11 i;m trying to get into the system to recover the files, but as I said the only files on the system are the system files and the recyle bin which has 9GB. I can't reset without losing the possible documents in the
I'm on a desktop running xp pro 64bit and win7 64bit. With xp, I connect to the internet using exede satellite with a wired network connection due to problems setting up a secure password on my wireless router. However, win 7 doesn't recognize my wired connection so I temporarily use my wireless with a usb adapter to get online. When I wish to disconnect, I right-click the network icon (two pcs talking) and choose "disable". The last time I did so, I received this notification: "It is not possible to disable the connection at this time. This connection may be
I have a Dell 17R 5720 Laptop running Windows 7 pro, i7 Intel Mobile, 8 GB Ram, 1TB hard drive, and integrated intel graphics. I bought it just this way about 4 yrs ago and it has been running good up until the current hiccup. What is does is just turn off to black screen while I'm using it. Sometimes it clicks once (could be hard drive seating?), but I am hard of hearing, so maybe clicks everytime. It doesn't seem to happen consistenly doing any one thing like videos. If I play videos consitently to check out if it
Default settings for most laptops, even when plugged in, is to turn off display and/or send the computer to sleep every 10 minutes or so---which is rather stupid, at least when plugged in! Set it to "never".
Don Penlington.
On Sun, May 15, 2016 at 10:52 PM, GeorgeMary Skokan <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
> I have a Dell 17R 5720 Laptop running Windows 7 pro, i7 Intel Mobile, 8 > GB Ram, 1TB hard drive, and integrated intel graphics. I bought it just > this way about 4 yrs ago and it has been running good up until
When the display goes black, try looking at it at an angle to see if the display is still functioning or not. I had a similar problem with an Averatec laptop when the backlight would go off due to an intermittent connection in the cable from display to body. Do try to determine if there is any function in the display or not, even with the backlight off.
Thanks for the suggestions. Upon re reading my post, I left out an important piece of info. When the screen goes black, that laptop is completely shut off. I have to remove the battery and hold the power switch for awhile, then replace the battery to get it to start back up. It then says "windows was shut down unexpectedly........." I am going to replace the system board this weekend since I had read on another forum that Dell had a run of bad ones that exhibited this.
I have replaced the system board and still have some confusing problems. The spurious shut down seems to be fixed, but I am still unable to power back on after shutdown without removing and replacing the battery. There is a big "if", though. If I press the power button within a couple of minutes, the laptop will power up. I can also sleep it and have it come back on sometimes when I press the power button, but not moving the mouse. Hibernate is the same as power-off symptom. I have tried different (new) battery and charger from Dell, but
I had something happen to me that's never happened before. I was doing my weekly update of Windows 7, and I did the restart, and left. I came back in two hours and I was on the screen that said, "Updating Your Computer Do Not Turn Off Your Computer," or something like that. But, it was hung up at 30%. The three-fingered salute would not work, nor pressing esc, del, and whatever else. I had to force a hard shut down by holding the power key down for four seconds.
Hi Dean, create a nemtest86 bootable cd and use that to test the memory in your pc Robert Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone. -------- Original message -------- From: Dean Kukral <[log in to unmask]> Date:14/05/2016 17:55 (GMT+00:00) To: [log in to unmask] Cc: Subject: [PCBUILD] computer hangs during update I had something happen to me that's never happened before. I was doing my weekly update of Windows 7, and I did the restart, and left. I came back in two hours and I was on the screen that said, "Updating Your Computer Do Not Turn Off Your Computer," or something like that. But, it was
I don't have an explanation for your hang-up, but I have had the same thing happen to me. Never found the cause, but like you, all seemed to work fine after reboot. This happened quite a while ago; I have since moved on to Windows 10. My wife's computer still runs Windows 7, but her problem is that it says it is checking for updates but never completes!
I have just bought an HP 250 G4 Laptop, Intel Core i5-6200U 2.3GHz, 4GB RAM, 128GB SSD, 15.6 HD, DVDRW, Intel HD, WIFI, Bluetooth, Webcam, Windows 10 Home 64 <http://www.ebuyer.com/product/735558>_._
I would like to know if it is possible to clone the hard drive before I load any programs or applications. I just thought if I did this, it would be easy to revert to the cloned drive, (or the original drive if I replaced it with the cloned one), if I encountered any problems.
The spec sheet says this laptop will handle 8GB DDR3l 1600 SDRAM. It should be recognized automatically. Don't subject the RAM to shock or liquids and it should be easy to install, but some machines make this harder than others. As for cloning, most computers come with a special partition (Usually D:) that can be used to restore the drive to factory defaults. There's nothing to stop you from cloning the bare drive, but I usually load my programs first to save reinstalling in the event of a failure.
First, the extra RAM. That's a very good idea and will lengthen the life of your SSD drive as well as creating a faster operating environment. W10 is very good at picking up new hardware additions, so just plug it in, you should have no problems. Try to keep your fingers dry and away from the electrical contacts when handling the RAM stick.
Laptops usually have a "restore" partition on the hard drive that allows you to restore the laptop to the original configuration as you bought it. Of course, this would mean that you lose all of your programs and data that were added since purchase, but this is what you seem to be wanting to preserve. To do the restore, you would need to press an appropriate key during the POST process before the OS starts to boot. I don’t know which key is needed to be pressed on your particular model, but you should find it in the documentation.
I have a Dell Dimension xps T450 running windows 98se with KernelEX on my C:. On a second hard drive, I had installed successfully windows 2000 sp4 on a D: while 98 was still plugged in.
1.My question is that, when I installed some of the KB windows updates, I noticed that since you can not designate a drive, it goes to the C:drive. Then when I looked for those folders that are created with gobbly gook names, they are not there. Most software programs allow me to select D: to install them, and a few things
I'm away from home at the moment, and having some problems with a laptop. It's an HP Pavilion "Model 818", purchased from Best Buy in December. At the end of February, HP's "Support Assistant" program notified me to download and install half a dozen updates. I did -- and wireless hasn't worked since. The desktop shortcut I set up to allow easy enabling/disabling of Wifi now just tells me "Wi-Fi could not be found." I had a chance to hook it to a wired network and do a fresh download and install of the drivers for the Wifi adapter, but
Hi I've a very old HP but doesn't one of the function keys give you a boot option. Mind you I've one win laptop and everything else is centos and kubuntu but HP used to be very static in boot options.
Sent from my iPhone
> On 10 Mar 2016, at 12:32, [log in to unmask] wrote: > > I'm away from home at the moment, and having some problems with a > laptop. It's an HP Pavilion "Model 818", purchased from Best Buy in > December. > At the end of February, HP's "Support Assistant" program notified me > to download and
Go into W10 Settings/Network and Internet and see if wifi is set to "on" or if it shows up at all.
To state the obvious (though you don't mention it)----- is the wifi key switched on on the laptop itself? Most laptops have a wifi key and light, usually on the keyboard but on some models it's hard to find, may be hidden down on the front below the keyboard. Check the handbook for its location.
Have you tried another device (smartphone, etc.) to connect to the router? I know this is most likely a ridiculously obvious step that you've probably taken but I had a similar problem that ended up being a wrong cable connected to my router!
Another thought is that Canada may be using different channels for popular wifi frequencies but I would think they would be similar (except for the 5600-5650 MHz band range for weather radar) Or did the problem start before you went there?
On Thu, Mar 10, 2016 at 4:24 PM, Stephen McManus <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
> Hi I've a very old HP but doesn't one of the function keys give you a boot > option. Mind you I've one win laptop and everything else is centos and > kubuntu but HP used to be very static in boot options. > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On 10 Mar 2016, at 12:32, [log in to unmask] wrote: > > > > I'm away from home at the moment, and having some problems with a > >
The old computer's hard drive at our local Humane Society failed, so we opted for a rebuilt from our local computer shop in order to save money. The replacement is a Dell, running Windows Vista. It would not respond to the keyboard that came with it; we had to haul it on back to the shop. There, we tried a different keyboard and it works.
> -----Original Message----- > From: Personal Computer Hardware discussion List > [mailto:[log in to unmask]] On Behalf Of Joyce J > Sent: Thursday, February 18, 2016 10:06 AM > To: [log in to unmask] > Subject: [PCBUILD] Dell not recognizing keyboard > > The old computer's hard drive at our local Humane Society failed, so we > opted for a rebuilt from our local computer shop in order to save > money. The replacement is a Dell, running Windows Vista. It would not > respond to the keyboard that came with it; we had to haul it on back
When my computer does not recognize my mouse..I unplug it, wait a while and plug it again and it works...Try every port, unplug and plug again and see if that works... Good luck!
On 02/19/16, Vincent Winterling wrote:
Try another keyboard?
Vincent Winterling Vineland, NJ
> -----Original Message----- > From: Personal Computer Hardware discussion List > [mailto:[log in to unmask]] On Behalf Of Joyce J > Sent: Thursday, February 18, 2016 10:06 AM > To: [log in to unmask] > Subject: [PCBUILD] Dell not recognizing keyboard > > The old computer's hard drive at our local Humane Society failed, so we > opted for a rebuilt
when mine misbehaves I go to the Control Panel click on the keyboard, move any one of the keys related to speed, save it and all is good again (until the next time). Not a permanent fix. I need a new keyboard :/
On Fri, Feb 19, 2016 at 9:57 AM, Benoit Ventimiglia <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
I got a number of suggestions but have not posted all my responses to the listserver. There is a particular link that Peter Ekkerman sent me that may be helpful to others:
This shows what fonts were included with various versions of Microsoft products. In my case I was told that the italic font that was used came with an old version of MS Publisher. Checking the above link showed this to be false. So the mystery remains - where did the Algerian Italic font come from?
Our church publishes a weekly bulletin and I get to post a pdf version on our website. Sometimes I need to make changes. I ran into a problem with a font that is used. It is called ALGERIAN_RT, or specifically ALGERIAN_R, italic. I have tried various google searches but so far have only found a display of the font in an old Microsoft Word tutorial.
After installing Windows 10 my Samsung DVD re-writer worked okay for a few days then stopped working. My PC won't even recognize it's existence although it shows up in the Bios. Thinking the re-writer was faulty I bought a new one with the same result. Could someone tell me how to fix things. I have a 1 TB hard drive with 4gig of ram, and everything else if working okay. Dorothy Jones
This is a known problem which requires a registry edit. The step-by-step information is available if you Google a request. You will find that external DVD burners will work, If you have one, try it to ensure that it is functioning. That will prove that the failure is Windows 10 related and not the fault of a dying burner.
Thank you both ( Ron & JPS Hurricane) for your invaluable insights.--I always do "what if" questions in life and rarely get answer--haha)
Ron, I too figured if I removed a drive then that would wig out the booting sequence. I plan for that machine to yes create windows 2000 on a separate HD and just toggle as needed from the bios. First I shall pu my formatted blank HD in there to see if the bios would even consider booting to it before I actually install the software. On a different tower, I will try doing that as D:
OKAY so leaving the 98 in as my C drive, do windows 2000 to D: drive. Understood. Was there not something else, that I needed to configure in the install when doing it with that method to prevent any type of overwriting? Also since I create a ghost image file for when the hard drive fails, would this become invalid if I ever was to use win 2000 as the primary without the windows 98 in the tower since it would be reading to d rather than c?
When installing Win2000, it will detect the Win98 already installed and give you the option of replacing, upgrading or creating a new installation. If you choose a new install the only thing that gets updated on the C drive will be the boot loader. This is what will give you the choice of which OS from which to boot.
No, the Windows installer should handle it all. Just make sure you do the right thing in the partition manager of the install disk. Windows being installed on drive letter d won't cause any problems for Windows, however, there is some poorly written software out there that has problems with it. I think if you remove the c drive completely it should still boot 2000. You may have to remove 98 from the boot menu. I'm not entirely sure that this won't break it though. For it to work, there has to be an exact copy of the boot loader
Hello, I was wondering if the following is possible.
Computer is Dell Dimension xps t450. pentium 3--Memory just upgraded from 2 strips of 128 to 2 strips of 256. I have been running windows 98 on a 6 gig hd on it always. I have now created on a separate 6 gig hard drive a windows 2000pro. (took out the 98 to create the 2000) Is there a way I can keep both hard drives in the machine and then select which one to boot from? Any thoughts would be welcome. Saw one person in youtube who would do the
Wow, Win98 goes back some time. There are so many ways to do what you asked. Probably the simplest is to have 98 installed on your C drive (or partition). Install the new drive (most likely you will need to format over your existing Win2000) and then (with your Win98 drive in place) install Win2000. You will be asked where you want to install the new software (probably the D drive). The install process will create a multi-boot loader. When starting the computer, you will be asked which you want to use. This process works with most Microsoft operating systems
I have a Microsoft Surface Pro 3 (i7-based tablet) which has been my go-to travel machine for its nice mix of power and mobility. I took it with me to Canada over the holidays, and now it doesn't work... When I received it, it was running Windows 8, but promptly updated to 8.1, and I've been running Windows 10 on it for some months now. During this trip, I discovered that if I folded the "Keyboard Cover" against the back of the tablet, Windows 10 asked me if I wanted to run in "tablet mode", which apparently means I get
Try to get into recovery mode. Windows 10 will go into recovery mode automatically if it fails to boot. If it doesn't you will have to boot off a Windows 10 install CD or USB flash drive. You can download either one of these at Microsoft https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10
If that doesn't fix it I would restore your backup image ... you do have one right?
I've found this works for me: Use this two-button shutdown process to ensure that your Surface is turned off completely. Here’s how:
Step 1: Press and hold the power button on your Surface for 30 seconds and then release it. Step 2: Press and hold the volume-up button and the power button at the same time for at least 15 seconds and then release both. The screen may flash the Surface logo, but continue holding the buttons down for at least 15 seconds.
Update on my go.goadvs.com hijack problem. After thinking I cured it by reinstalling Chrome, it started again. It also showed up with IE. Since it happened only with our church website, which I am the webmaster for, I decided that the website must be at fault.
A bit of sleuthing verified my suspicion. For years I had use sitemeter.com to give me a hit counter on the home page. Apparently, somewhere along the way, sitemeter started redirecting some traffic to goadvs.com to show advertising. Removing sitemeter code from my web homepage stopped the ad hijacking.
Hi Peter, first answer would be is that your website is infected. Talk to the site managers. I do know that malware can latch onto sites and then unlatch to go elsewhere if the stats aren't sufficient to justify staying where they are. Apart from that I don't know but did try to disinfect a Chrome browser for a client. In the end I was defeated. There were just too many on the laptop. Just left them with a 6 month Malwarebytes program and advised to choose Firefox. It was so bad I considered a fresh install of win 7.
Peter, It depends on what type of malware you ended up with. For example, my cousin was running Firefox and got a really nasty search bar tool that kept coming up. It would throw up different webpages and redirect your searches through their so-called search engine. I tried cleaning it with Malwarebytes and Spybot Search and Destroy. No dice, this thing had somehow bonded with the browser and kept reinstalling. The answer I had was to use Revo Uninstaller. It executed the uninstaller for Firefox and then it scanned and removed entries in the registry, program files folder and the
Hi Peter, In addition to the good utilities you've already tried, I've found SuperAntiSpyware to be effective and non-invasive. I firmly believe that one malware utility is not enough, although I think only one should be "active" at a time. I agree that Revo Uninstaller is an excellent utility. The most important thing, I would humbly suggest that you try running your browser in a sandbox, using "Sandboxie". It prevents items from a browsing session getting on your computer without your specific approval. It takes a little getting used to, but I've found it well worth the effort. Hope you
Thank you all for your input. I am happy to report that my infection appears to be gone after uninstalling Chrome and reinstalling it. So the malware must have been restricted to infiltrating Chrome only. The reinstall was made easier by my first saving the bookmarks and remembered form autocomplete values. For those that are interested, this is done by saving the files "Bookmarks" and "Login Data" that are located in the C:\Users\...username...\AppData\Local\Google\Chrome\User Data folder.
I own a 5 year old HP laptop using Windows7, 64 bits with Pack1. Microsoft wants me to download KB3035583 update but when I agree to the download, I am not sure it does complete successfully because when MS tries to install, it fails every time. After many times trying to download the upgrade, I stopped. However, it continues in its attempt to install it every times I turn off the PC. I can see the little icon (installation pending) next to the power button. I searched all over (except in the registry) for KB3035583 and nothing was found ... obviously no such update has been downloaded ... so
That update is the Windows 10 dowwnloader, and is unnecessary. If you want to upgrade to Widows 10, Microsoft supplies a download tool on its website. If you don't want to upgrade, let us know and we'll tell you how to avoid intalling this update (which will be nothing but a nuissance if you don't want to upgrade). On Dec 26, 2015 3:17 PM, "MICHAEL CAMPOBASS0" <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
Don't waste your time!! Unless you want MS ad bs. All that KB is is a icon that will nag you!! They are trying to get you to download Windows 10!! If byu now you have got it installed I would advise you to uninstall it! Now of coarse if you like getting ads on your desktop then go ahead and install it. I installed Win 10 and it is a big waste. Especially if you play older games.
Please read this first http://blog.ultimateoutsider.com/2015/08/using-gwx-stopper-to-permanently-remove.html
Then go to GWX Control Panel http://ultimateoutsider.com/downloads/
* Please note that clicking on the large GWX Control Panel name will immediately give you the setup exe You may want the portable version as presented in the section below the header. Or you can download both -as you see fit
I've been using GWX Stopper seems to work ok http://news.softpedia.com/news/remove-the-get-windows-10-icon-for-ever-with-gwx-stopper-490567.shtml
----- Original Message ----- From: "Dean Kukral" <[log in to unmask]> Subject: [PCBUILD] Windows 10 nag screens
> But, lately I've been getting nag screens for a free "upgrade" to > Windows 10, which I do NOT want. > > Does anyone know how to turn off these nags??
PCSOFT's List Owners: Bob Wright<[log in to unmask]> Mark Rode<[log in to unmask]>
I apparently was not careful enough and ended up with my Chrome browser getting infected. The problem is that adds from go.goadvs.com pop up often when I access our church website. I did a Google search and found some suggestions on removing this malware. Unfortunately, a search of the registry, inspection of installed program, removal of all Chrome extensions, as well as running several malware removal programs (AdwCleaner, Junkware Removal Tool, Malwarebytes, HitmanPro, Zemana) did not seem to fix the problem.
I have been trying to create a Windows 10 Recovery Drive on a USB flash drive. Have tried on 3 different computers using different USB drives of 8 to 16 GB capacity. Have selected to include System Files but each time they are not transferred. All I get is about 4GB of boot and troubleshooting files. From what I have read, there should be closer to 8 GB of data.
This is a two part question. I have two Dell computers, a studio xps and a newer molder XPS that has a faster chip and a faster graphics card. Here is the problem. On the older model, I have a well known computer graphics program that I would rather have on the faster computer. However when I try to install the program from the cd, the company will not activate it. A Google search revealed that the company will no longer do an activation because it is an outdated version. Is it possible to transfer this program from
In general you can't transfer a program from one machine to another. I've heard of programs that are supposed to make this possible, but I have no experience with them. The machines will need different drivers, so a HD switch may not work, but I don't see any harm in trying. What program is this?
Your Questions: 1.Is it possible to transfer this program from the older computer to the newer?
Yes, but with reservations. You didn't mention Operating Systems on each.
There are programs that can do this, but most will still require re-registration.
I've done this a few times manually by comparing program installation folders and copying Data, plus comparing Registry values and applying the same to the new installation.
I got a call today, rom the repair shop that has had my 17" Acer laptop for about three weeks. They expect to be done working on it within 2 or 3 more days, but say that they've noticed the hard drive "running slow"; for an extra $95, they'll swap it out for an SSD.... David Gillett
Hard drives don't "run slow". They either work or don't work. It could need a malware clean up, or chkdsk, but that's a different kettle. Ask if changing drives includes transferring all your file and programs and find out what size the drive is, then evaluate the offer.
On Mon, Nov 16, 2015 at 7:07 PM, <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
If done right, it can be a reasonable upgrade. Recent versions of Windows do a good jobs of working with them. I bought a new laptop a few months ago. It is a high end MSI laptop, and supports 4 mSATA slots as well as the internal conventional disk. As soon as I got it, I installed 2 128GB mSATA SSD drives and configured them in a RAID0 configuration. I made this new drive my C: drive and re-installed Windows 8.1 on it. I keep the conventional HD for my page file, and frequently changing storage and scrap
An SSD will give new life to an aging laptop, provide a huge performance boost, and is a no brainier.You don't say what size drive or who the manufacturer is. By way of comparison I upgraded my 08 dual core ACER a couple of months ago to a Samsung EVO 500GB for : $207.99. Replacing a laptop hard drive is extremely easy and I am sure you will find an instructional Youtube video about this. Make sure they send you back your original hard drive that you can put it in an external USB3 case.. I just bought one of
Excellent points! I don't have details of the replacement drive from them yet -- the hard drive they are replacing is 500 GB and so large enough to be useful as an external... I'll hit Amazon for that case... David -------- Original Message -------- Subject: Re: [PCBUILD] Repair deal... From: Mark Rode <[log in to unmask]> Date: Tue, November 17, 2015 9:46 am To: [log in to unmask] An SSD will give new life to an aging laptop, provide a huge performance boost, and is a no brainier.You don't say what size drive or who the manufacturer is. By way of comparison I upgraded my 08
The service place assured me at various times that they would call me when my laptop was ready, but when I called yesterday (because I hadn't heard from them), it was ready and waiting -- no clue as to how long. They gave me the original hard drive before I could ask, although the SSD they replaced it with was only half that capacity, and while the data files I was concerned about all seem to be present, somebody installed Spotify... And something's not righ with the built-in wireless, which shows enabled but when I click on "Connect / Disconnect",
If I were you, I would take it back. Any reputable repair place would fix it at no additional cost and would consider refunding you (because of the Spotify thing, unless that's standard procedure). It's possible that your wireless device drive was causing BSOD and they "fixed" it in away that makes wireless unusable without telling you
Sounds like you could use a better service. You might give http://iscnetwork.com/ a call. I've used them for years and years. In fact this computer was built by them and has lasted for years and years.
Agape,
Loy
On 2015-12-15 12:25 PM, [log in to unmask] wrote: > The service place assured me at various times that they would call > me when my laptop was ready, but when I called yesterday (because I > hadn't heard from them), it was ready and waiting -- no clue as to how > long. They gave me the original hard drive before I could ask,
I have a 16" Acer Aspire laptop (4- or 6-core AMD 4-bit CPU, BluRay drive) which has served me well for about 3 years -- until last night. It worked fine on he weekend, but I got home Monday evening to find that after 5-10 minutes of use, it presents me with the "New and Improved" (but not especially helpful) Win10 version of the Blue Screen of Death. The most helpful detail shown is that the cause may be "WHEA_UNRECOVERABLE_ERROR". The OS did make one attempt a Automatic Recovery, but that had no apparent effect. Is there anything I should
Not sure about the windows OS but you can use a Linux live CD to copy your data. Stephen
On 20 October 2015 at 17:58, <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
> I have a 16" Acer Aspire laptop (4- or 6-core AMD 4-bit CPU, BluRay > drive) which has served me well for about 3 years -- until last night. > It worked fine on he weekend, but I got home Monday evening to find that > after 5-10 minutes of use, it presents me with the "New and Improved" > (but not especially helpful) Win10 version of the Blue Screen of Death.
The first thing I would determine is if the hard drive checks out OK with a diagnostic program that should be available from the drives manufacturer. Usually boot off a CD and run the diagnostic. If the drive is OK then I would run Memtest to maker sure the RAM is OK. RAM is usually the problem with a BSOD. If RAM is Ok I would try to boot off a USB drive that gets you into Linux or Windows so you can retrieve your data. I know you to be a Linux expert so you can pick your distro
I booted from a Linux CD and copied everything to an external hard drive, then took it to a local shop where the tech recognized it as a state he had seen before. It looks like over the weekend, an update for Steam arrived, but was corrupted -- this is the only computer I have Steam installed on, and in fact I never actually use it. So he will uninstall Steam, and run diagnostics to determine whether that fixes the problem -- with any luck, I'll have my working machine back by the weekend! In the meantime, I fired up
Thanks for the information.Yep that is what the slot is for and although it is empty, when you hit the function wireless you can still turn it on and off Cub PCSOFT's List Owners: Bob Wright<[log in to unmask]> Mark Rode<[log in to unmask]>
-------- Original Message -------- From: cubbettee cubbettee <[log in to unmask]> Date: Wed, September 30, 2015 7:36 pm Thanks for the information.Yep that is what the slot is for and although it is empty, when you hit the function wireless you can still turn it on and off I have one old laptop with this sort of slot -- old enough that it has an 802.11b ([log in to unmask]) wifi interface built in -- I got an 802.11g card at the same time, so the built-in rarely got turned on. Could that be what's being turned on and off in this case on your computer?
Would you believe now works, 2 independent jack with cords did not but the third did.I also installed from everything possible from right clicking on the lan and getting the local area and installing all those items, some of which I am sure or no longer really used. Now I don't know if I have a wireless card in there though I set the drivers and of course there is this slot on the side--not sure what it is with a plastic thing the size of a credit card you can pop out--maybe a pc slot? PCSOFT's List Owners: Bob
The mysterious slot can accept a wireless network card or a modem card, if the laptop doesn't have one or the other, or possibly to substitute for the original internal component if it has failed. Laptops were often supplied with a plastic dummy card to keep the slot and internal contacts clean. Here's a photo of one - http://www.barcodetraders.com/ois/ois_images/symbol_s24_hr11mb_wla.jpg Paul Hachmeyer
What was originally a "PCMCIA" (Mnemonic: People Can't Memorize Computer Industry Acronyms") slot later evolved into a "PC-CARD" slot. It's hard to believe that 802.11b, 11 mbps @ 2.4 GHz was ever called "High Speed", and in fac most moder 2.4 GHz networks allow disabling of slower bitrates to allow clients that are capable of 802.11g to run closer to their 54 mbps capability... I have several laptops, but the one that has this sot of slot is over 10 years old. David Gillett -------- Original Message -------- Subject: Re: [PCBUILD] network cable From: "Hachmeyer, Mr. Paul S." <[log in to unmask]> Date:
I have a main desktop machine at home, which originally came with Win 7 Ultimate. I partitioned the main hard drive and installed Ubuntu, and that's where I read my email. The machine is about years old now, and thanks to software updates it is now running Windows 10 and Ubuntu 14.04. Rather than string long Ethernet cables all around my apartment, I use a USB wifi adapter to connect to the wifi provided by my DSL router in another room. Ubuntu seems to drop and reestablish the connection randomly. At least, it usually reestablishes it eventually. I don't think
I just run purely separate win and kubuntu systems now using samba in the network Though, when I was running dual win 7 and kubuntu never had a dropping under Linux. What's your WiFi model? Mind you, I stopped using Ubuntu for clients unless they specifically asked for it. It sounds on first impressions that something doesn't like the other. Have you checked the Ubuntu forums? On 8 Sep 2015 21:49, <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
At the beginning of this year I tried running Elementry0 which is a Ubuntu distro, on my laptop = Thinkpad . I liked it a lot for basic web and email use, and wished I could of kept it, but I had constant never ending wifi failures. I even tried changing out the adaptor to a PMCIA, and then a USB adaptor. Nothing made any difference. After months of this I finally wiped the drive and went back to Win7. I think it is something about the build that needs fixing.
There might be a correlation if your wireless card has N-mode capabilities. The ubuntu forum has directions on how to disbable that here. http://ubuntuforums.org/showthread.php?t=2219014
Derek Buchanan
On Tue, Sep 8, 2015 at 12:36 PM, <[log in to unmask]> wrote: > I have a main desktop machine at home, which originally came with Win > 7 Ultimate. I partitioned the main hard drive and installed Ubuntu, and > that's where I read my email. The machine is about years old now, and > thanks to software updates it is now running Windows 10 and Ubuntu > 14.04. > > Rather than string long Ethernet
So far I have not liked what others have experienced with W 10, so I'm not going to upgrade. How do I get rid of the Windows 10 upgrade icon in my task bar?
Currently running 7 on a 64-bit HP "Mini Tower," 850 gig HD and 3 gig RAM. Good enough for me!
Had the same problem on my old HP laptop with Win 7 home edition. DON'T have it on my new Dell laptop with Win 7 Pro. Anyway, here's a solution, according to http://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/6596-get-windows-10-icon-remove-taskbar-windows-7-8-1-a.html :
[image: Get Windows 10 Icon - Remove from Taskbar in Windows 7 and 8.1] OPTION THREE [image: Get Windows 10 Icon - Remove from Taskbar in Windows 7 and 8.1] To Disable 'Get Windows 10' using a REG file
Recently purchased a refurbished Dell Latitude E6520 laptop with Win 7 Pro, quad core Intel, and 8 GB of RAM. Works great, except I use a mouse, and the touchpad and buttons are a nuisance in that when I type, I inadvertently hit one of them, and the cursor jumps to somewhere else on the page, and my typing ends up in the wrong place. Neither the owners manual nor the online help for the machine address this issue.
Right click "computer," click "manage," then on the sidebar, click devices (or device manager, it should have a red toolbox icon). From there, you should be able to find your touchpad. When you do, right-click and click "properties," then there should be a button to disable the device. Do NOT disable anything that may not be your touchpad. If you ever want to use your touchpad again, you'll have to reverse this process (but if it's a while in the future you will probably forget). The same button should re-enable the device.
TouchFreeze has helped me out with this annoyance.
https://code.google.com/p/touchfreeze/
Jerry
On Wed, Aug 19, 2015 at 8:20 PM, Ken Shearer <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
> Recently purchased a refurbished Dell Latitude E6520 laptop with Win 7 > Pro, quad core Intel, and 8 GB of RAM. Works great, except I use a mouse, > and the touchpad and buttons are a nuisance in that when I type, I > inadvertently hit one of them, and the cursor jumps to somewhere else on > the page, and my typing ends up in the wrong place. Neither the owners > manual nor the
Win XP Pro SP3. No characters appear with either of 2 good keyboards or On Screen Keyboard, but a "Beep" sound is made. No apparent security policies, keyboard is recognized in Device Manager. I can't get into setup. Left mouse button doesn't always work, mouse is good. I'm stumped.
PCSOFT's List Owners: Bob Wright<[log in to unmask]> Mark Rode<[log in to unmask]>
Perhaps you have a malfunctioning keylogger (check with a couple good AVs, but you probably know if this is a likely problem). I would look at anything you installed or updated recently, especially if it runs some sort of daemon. It could be a malfunctioning daemon. The only other thing that comes to mind is some sort of driver issue. I would run checkdisk (if I understand the issue correctly, you will have to use a recovery cd). Try reinstalling drivers (I'd start with the chipset driver). Restart into safe mode to see if you still have the issue (probably
Hello, I have been trying without success to copy a backup of my hard drive, which refuses to boot, to a new hard drive in a Toshiba Satellite C660, with Windows 7 on the old drive.I have the old HDD in an enclosure, attached by usb to the laptop, and with a Windows 7 Rescue disc in the CD drive it is possible to see all the folders and files on the old drive. But the 'System Repair Options' window does not display the Win7 OS which has been saved in the old HD as 'WindowsImageBackup'. How can I get this OS
I have recently upgraded from Windows 8.1 to Windows 10 . I am running on a Gateway desktop with 448 GB hard drive, Time Warners Roadrunner and using FireFox as my browser. In both Fire Fox and Microsoft Edge Videos from MSN some times only open as a green screen with no other image. I have the latest Adobe flash player update and so far as I know all the latest updates for Windows and Firefox. Any ideas of where to look for a solution for this problem, Microsoft is not much help.
The first thing I would try, is to uninstall and reinstall flash. If I remember correctly, Edge has flash integrated, which would tell me that it's more likely to be a video driver or some other sort of problem. You could also try Chrome, which has integrated flash. If it has the same problem that would indicate the problem is not with flash player. Also, if you're ok with it, I'd recommend a fresh Win 10 install (you'll have to reinstall your software and backup your files of course). That will most likely fix your problem, as well as a
You didn't mention how much RAM memory your computer has. Much depends on this. If your hardware does not have sufficient RAM (and your motherboard doesn 't have sufficient 'resources',) you might not be able to run Win10 at all. I have this situation with one of my home computers, and it is not that old but has sufficient RAM [maybe 8 GB- - 2006-2007, but it my not be quick enough.]. Also, your motherboard/main-board also needs to support how Windows 10 works with available hardware. It may from my LG Mobile Robert Molson <[log in to unmask]> wrote: >I have recently upgraded
Assuming that other video sites work, is it possible that the sites you mention are using Silverlight for their videos? MS does not support it in Edge in Windows 10. See http://www.theinquirer.net/inquirer/news/2416200/microsoft-were-not-killing-silverlight-in-windows-10-but-stop-using-it-anyway for more information. This page: https://support.mozilla.org/en-US/kb/use-silverlight-plugin-play-audio-and-video suggests that Firefox needs a plugin for this, and tells how to get it.
On 8/16/2015 10:05 AM, Robert Molson wrote: > I have recently upgraded from Windows 8.1 to Windows 10 . I am running on a Gateway desktop with 448 GB hard drive, Time Warners Roadrunner and using FireFox as my browser. In both Fire Fox and Microsoft Edge Videos
Check your video drivers to be the latest and also supported by Win10.
> I have recently upgraded from Windows 8.1 to Windows 10 . I am > running on a Gateway desktop with 448 GB hard drive, Time Warners > Roadrunner and using FireFox as my browser. In both Fire Fox and > Microsoft Edge Videos from MSN some times only open as a green > screen with no other image. I have the latest Adobe flash player > update and so far as I know all the latest updates for Windows and > Firefox. Any ideas of where
This is the text of a support ticket I just opened with Gigabyte:
New build. WinXP SP sucessfully installed on 1TB WD HD (new) on a different computer, as was unable to install os in new computer using a new LG optical drive. I tried 4 different WinXP install CDs on the new hd in the new build all of which halted with an error message that seemed to refer to the new hd. WD support diagnosed a bad hd and sent me a replacement. I then thought to try to install the os on a new flashdrive. The install
True Tony, but it is happening everytime I click on the "windows explorer" Now I actually had to burn a cd, and boy did it make the floppy grind for quite some time/
Cub,
The machine basically takes an "inventory" of sorts of what is available to it when you open the Computer window. It spins up the drive to see if there is anything in there to read.
Yes many search suggested the disable. I had no disk in the machine before the rebuild so I wonder what it is reading? Actually I do use floppies quite frequently since they are small media, I like to keep everything separate so if a media dies, I won't loose everything. From the floppies then I do a master backup as a secondary precaution.
The machine basically takes an "inventory" of sorts of what is available to it when you open the Computer window. It spins up the drive to see if there is anything in there to read.
Tony M.
> cubbettee cubbettee <mailto:[log in to unmask]> > July 16, 2015 11:40 AM > Thanks for the information Russ, > > Yes many search suggested the disable. > I had no disk in the machine before the rebuild so I wonder what it is > reading? <snip>
I have an XP machine that was upgraded to windows 7 using probably an upgrade disk as well as possobly the same image to a few work computers. Now every time I click on "windows Explorer" the floppy drive is accesses. Once "windows explorer" is open it does not further access the drive.
This is something that has been in Windows 7 since the beginning. It is probably checking for any disk label that might be on a disk in the drive.
If you never need to use the floppy drive anymore (who needs this?), you could unplug it. USB thumb drives are the media of choice for transferring files these days, much greater capacity and more reliable.
Not my first build. Old ATX case, new Corsair 450w psu, AMD A8-7800 CPU and Gigabyte mb. In past builds I used to buy OEM CPUs and cooler fan separately. But now the only OEM CPUs are for servers in cloud farms. I tried the stock cooler and at top speed its temp stabilized at 58c. So I started a ticket with Giga. support and they recommended a Zalman with a copper interface with the CPU but it is too big for an ATX case. The ticket is still open and maybe after the holiday weekend there will
Thanks Vincent for the tip. I had heard of Arctic as the Rolls-Royce of thermal paste but not of their coolers. As the mb in the ATX case is vertically oriented, the Arctic which is not thru-bolted like Cooler Master and Zalman (for AMD CPUs) is questionable. At least it has 4 pin connector unlike the Zalman 9500 which has the older 3 pin arrangement plus a physical knob to change the fan speed which is "conveniently" mounted on the outside of the case with double-sided tape. I am still waiting to hear from Gigabyte, again, but I wonder if
Have you considered a liquid cooling solution? The Cooler Master Seidon 120V is an example of a product that may work for you in a confined case...
Tony Mayer
> Michael Eisenstadt <mailto:[log in to unmask]> > July 5, 2015 9:10 AM > Thanks Vincent for the tip. I had heard of Arctic > as the Rolls-Royce of thermal paste but not of > their coolers. As the mb in the ATX case is vertically > oriented, the Arctic which is not thru-bolted like <snip> > > > > > PCSOFT's List Owners: > Bob Wright<[log in to unmask]> > Mark Rode<[log in to unmask]> >
I ordered an Arctic Freezer 7. Gigabyte did pursue my support ticket questions and suggested a different Zalman cooler which would have required pulling the mb which I already had in place.
I specced this build to have some headroom just in case I get back to simming Flight Simulator. FSX is its final iteration. FS runs faster with multiple cored CPUs so that is why I went with the latest generation AMD APU CPU.
If a user disables javascript in their browser? Is there any way a cookie can be set? In other words, is there a way to set a cookie without javascript, or do some browsers allow exceptions for cookie-setting javascript?
Jacob - cookies have nothing to do with cookies. Cookies have been around long before JS became vogue. The best way to keep cookies from being set is to set your browser not to accept cookies usually found in the preferences.
Larry Miller
Jacob Wrote:
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2015 23:09:18 -0500 From: Jacob Smith <[log in to unmask]> Subject: cookies
Well, there are cookies and then there are super cookies. Not sure if this relates to the question (or the one that was intended.) Here are a couple links that might be appropriate. I am not at home or I would share with you a Firefox add on to specifically remove super cookies. Or, at least the ones that were around before. It would appear they might have become more pugnacious. What is a Super Cookie? - Definition from Techopedia
I have a bit of a problem with my ISP, Pixius. They've made noises about wanting me to sign an unacceptable three year renewal contract. On old technology. And, while I used to like them a lot, they shafted some of their customers so I no longer trust them. If they would just let me go month to month I'd keep them, but I'm afraid that might not be an option. I am in a rural area with no access to DSL or cable and am currently connected via antenna to a tower about ten miles away. They have newer
Dean, I was stuck with the satellite ISP HughesNet, in a Frontier bundle arrangement (phone, DishNet, and Hughes) for two years. I would not recommend them. This past January, I dropped Hughes in favor of Exede, and I now have twice the download allowance for pretty much the same money. _Very_ pleased with Exede, although streaming and larger videos are still an issue even with 10 gig monthly allowance. You can get a higher-priced package that will cover that; I simply don't want nor need to spend that much.
There are a few small businesses that supply high-speed to rural areas via radio. Also, you could try a mobile hotspot which uses cellular internet. It's fast, but the data is limited unless you're stinking rich.
On Wed, Apr 1, 2015 at 8:41 PM, Dean Kukral <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
> I have a bit of a problem with my ISP, Pixius. They've made noises > about wanting me to sign an unacceptable three year renewal contract. > On old technology. And, while I used to like them a lot, they shafted > some of their customers so I no longer trust
From another list: CUPERTINO, CA, April 1, 2015 -- Apple, Inc. (NASDAQ: AAPL) today announces the ultimate refinement in pointer technology: the zero-button mouse. "We found that the button was confusing users," said Sir Jonathan Ive, Vice President of Design. The zero-button mouse uses a flexible antenna, which Apple calls the tail. In order to left click, the user grabs the mouse by the tail, and swings it to the left. Right clicking is similar, but swinging to the right. Scrolling is accomplished by swinging the mouse towards or away from the user. The zero-button mouse is available in three
I'm writing a java program, and would like to move the file pointer back one character, is there a way to do this? Also, how would one test for the end of the file, or the number of characters in it?
There are a couple of classes in java.io that implement an unread() method. If you can use one of these classes to handle your file input, that will do it -- if none of these will do what you want, you may have to roll your own class, but these may at least suggest how you might do that. David Gillett -------- Original Message -------- Subject: [PCBUILD] java From: Jacob Smith <[log in to unmask]> Date: Sun, March 01, 2015 1:00 pm To: [log in to unmask] I'm writing a java program, and would like to move the file pointer back one character, is there a
I'm in the process of trying to get online with Ubuntu10.04. While searching for network hardware info for the motherboard (in Ubuntu), I see it lists the motherboard as Soyo. The actual mobo is Asus.
I have three hard drives. 1st is where Win xp is loaded, 2nd is just for storing files and the 3rd is a newer drive that I loaded Win7 on (though I've accidentally reformatted it and now use it for files). The hd with xp did come from a pc with a Soyo mobo but I thought, when I installed Win xp it would have
I taught Cisco CCNA classes, but I don't completely understand some issues with VPN. My daughter has an employer issued laptop to do work from remote locations. She uses VPN to gain access to the employer secure network.
Here is the problem. When she uses VPN from a hotel, for example, she has not apparent problems. At home, however, she connects through VPN ok, BUT her laptop keeps indicating that she has NO Internet connection - the Internet access does work; it is only the status indicator that seems in error. She is running Windows 7, and the home router
VPNs can certainly complicate matters. They allow traffic from a user's computer to be packaged up ("encapsulated"), optionally encrypted, sent across the Internet to another location, decrypted and unencapsulated, and forwarded without any sign of the network hops that the encapsulated traffic traversed. On first reading this, I immediately thought of a switch included with most VPN server implementations: allow or disallow "split tunneling". With split tunneling allowed, the user's traffic gets encapsulated via the VPN only for the address range of the network hosting the VPN -- all other traffic gets delivered by the local gateway, unencapsulated. If split
I had a similar problem and set up. We solved the problem by setting the connection speed to 802.11b on my laptop. I don't have Admin priveliges, so had to have the IT person do it for me.
Very slight (but virtually unnoticable) slow down. My router is capable of "n" speeds and my wife's laptop, my tablet and phone (non-VPN) have no problem with the router.
Hi, I am still not able to connect to the internet with my fairly new laptop and had posted the query below outlining the problem - I wonder if someone could help me track the internet connection from the wireless and hard-wired input on the computer to where-ever it should go. The network is working, lots of other devices connected but not this laptop. I tried the self diagnosis but it said it was unable to find the problem. I tried "Internet Options" - "Set up Internet Con" - "Your already Connected to the Internet" - "Browse Now" - browser
John, It's possible that you have some sort of virus or malware, a hardware problem or some other issue. Network connection issues are sometimes hard to resolve. Are there any other computers connected successfully to the network, wired or wireless? Are you sending theses emails from the same network? Do you have any virus or malware software installed on the computer? If so, I would run a full scan and see if anything is detected. Next, try to determine if you are an administrator on the computer. I don't have win 8, only win 7, but if you can go
Hello Paul, Many thanks for your reply. I think you may be right about some malware because something must have altered the settings. I have managed to get back on line by going through all the internet settings, (in a rather amateurish, ignorant way). I restored default settings when there was that option and now things seem to be working apart from Windows Defender, I cannot get it to update - I keep getting the message that Defender was unable to update error code 0x8007041d. I will google this code to see if I can throw some light on the
As mentioned about a week ago, I managed to get back on line by going through all internet settings and clicking "restore default settings" but after this I was not able to up-date windows defender and after a few more days, again I could not connect to internet. I have now carried out a "factory re-set" and things seem to be fine. I am now wondering what originally caused the problems, the main suspects are when I downloaded the traditional card games which are not present on win 8 or when I downloaded classic shell to restore the start button
Anyone tried installing to a recently made SATA HD on a relatively recent machine, pre-UEFI, but not upwards of a decade old?
I thought I knew how:
1-Set BIOS to legacy/compatible HD mode 2-Put the HD on the first port 3-Partition so DOS target is first primary, but with modern 64 head 32 sector "geometry", including empty first 1M "cylinder" 4-Make it a compatible size (e.g. 252M) 5-Make its primary active 6-From floppy boot do FDISK /MBR, and 7-FORMAT C: /S
I have a AT&T Gophone account that I use for Craigs list adds, or service calls, to shield my primary cell phone account. I know about Google voice accounts, I have three Google voice numbers, but I need two phones for my purposes.
I have been using a Cingular Razar for this purpose but a friend gave me their old Sprint Blackberry Bold 9650. It wasn't locked. I cleared old user data and reset the phone. Then I installed my AT&T Go phone simm. Then I went into settings and changed the SIMM number and setup voice mail to call
This is the second time a buy an USB Hub and got the same problem. When i connect an USB Key on it I got the message that this device will work better on a USB 2 port. So that tell that the HUB is not acknowleged as a USB 2 device. Does that mean that the HUB is not truly USB 2 device or the problem is somewhere else?
Frequently, you will need to connect an external power source to hubs such as this so that they are able to provide the full speed and power required.
Tony M
> Vital Tremblay <mailto:[log in to unmask]> > December 31, 2014 7:31 AM > Hi! Happy holidays > > This is the second time a buy an USB Hub and got the same problem. When i > connect an USB Key on it I got the message that this device will work > better on a USB 2 port. <snip>
I believe your motherboard may have been made before usb2 existed. I have an older pc that shows same message but will still operate at earlier usb speeds. I hope you're mistaken about your ram. 1 meg? The oldest pc I own from the early 80s had 56 meg and it was slower the me getting out of a chair! I'm sure others will correct me if I'm wrong and add their thoughts. On Dec 31, 2014 12:04 PM, "Vital Tremblay" <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
-----Original Message----- From: Personal Computer Hardware discussion List [mailto:[log in to unmask] .ORG] On Behalf Of Peter Ekkerman Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2014 8:07 PM To: [log in to unmask] Subject: Re: [PCBUILD] USB 2 Hub doesn't realy work usb 2
I tried both your links and both didn't work out very well. They arrived broken , I fixed that ,but that's not the only thing
XPdrivers.com is not interested in providing drivers, but rather provide a Drivers tool download. eHow is not much better - they make you jump through hoops to get a download for another driver tool.
I'm trying to boot into a networked laptop but I'm off the network and the message is "The User Profile service failed the logon. User profile cannot be loaded." I'm not currently connected to the network, but I thought I had signed into it successfully before I left the office for the Xmas break, which would usually allow me to sign on to the local computer. However, when I click on 'switch user' to try another id/password, I get a message - "to log on to your computer (not a domain), type EZYTCH\local user name". I've never seen that message
Here are my notes on repairing a corrupt User Profile. (Hopefully, it's the profile that's corrupt---not the user!).
It's not an uncommon problem in W7. Possibly (this is only my guess) caused by a Windows update gone wrong, as I've generally only noticed it on computers with Updates turned on.
My first reaction was that the "EZYTCH" was refereeing to a network computer name for you to log onto. But if you are not on a network, then I don't know what to make of it.
This is in response to John Clemence' question regarding problems with a laptop display. One of the most common problems that occur with laptops is that the flat-band or ribbon cable between the mainboard and the display becomes damaged or broken through bending at the hinge. The simplest way to test for this is to look at an image on the screen and then move the screen on its hinges, from all the way open to nearly closed. If the screen flickers or colors change it is definitely a problem with the ribbon cable. These flat cables are available for
I am a subscriber to PCBuild and PCSoft, and would like to post the following to PCBuild. Considering that you may only post items that relate to actually building a PC, this may be out of scope. Nevertheless, this is what I'd like to post:
I¹m looking at 2 laptops for prospective purchase: A supposedly higher end Toshiba Tecra Z50 and a MacBook Pro 15². Either OS is O.K. with me; my main concerns are performance with minimal hardware or software hiccups as well as durability and reliability. Price: Mac is about $1700+tax, and the Toshiba approx.. $1300+tax. Any comments
On 12/20/2014 6:24 PM, Ron Kaplan wrote: > I am a subscriber to PCBuild and PCSoft, and would like to post the > following to PCBuild. Considering that you may only post items that relate > to actually building a PC, this may be out of scope. Nevertheless, this is > what I'd like to post: > > I¹m looking at 2 laptops for prospective purchase: A supposedly higher end > Toshiba Tecra Z50 and a MacBook Pro 15². Either OS is O.K. with me; my main > concerns are performance with minimal hardware or software hiccups as well >
I would also ask how computer literate are you. I am a PC guy, but we also have Apple products in our home. I am very impressed with the free seminars offered at our nearby Apple Store. Also, if you spring for the extended warranty (Applecare) you can take advantage of the Apple Genius Bar and telephone support.
My birthday was in September, and it seemed in July and August that I was seeing lots of advertisements for MacBook Pros for about $1200 -- about what I had originally paid for the MacBook I was interested in replacing... So I went seriously looking at configurations and options, I found that one with a Retina display (and possibly a couple of other options I liked) was going to run about $2500. (I think that's called "Sticker Shock"...) Since my most recent 16" Win7 laptops had cost a bit under $400 apiece, that was a non-starter. I'm afraid my only
Hi, Not sure if I am posting correctly by simply hitting the reply button on one of the emails from the group, but here goes. We have a Packard Bell laptop model PAWF7, its running win 7 and the display started intermittently going off, sometimes hitting the brightness button repeatedly would bring the picture back temporarily. I have tried using a pc lead to connect the laptop video to my television and everything works perfectly via the tv screen. Would anyone on the list have any suggestions what I could try to eliminate possible problem areas. Many thanks in anticipation
John, Just to cover the bases, while you have the laptop hooked up to your television you could try reloading the video driver. I seriously doubt that is going to have any affect but it is worth documenting that you tried that. My gut feeling is that the display on the laptop is going out and soon won't come back. If you have any warranty, then it is time to call, if not then how comfortable are you working on laptops? If you elect to take it to a repair shop, don't expect it to be cheap. I know certain
Hi Derek, Thanks so much for taking the time to post your helpful reply. From your answer, it does rather sound like the screen is dieing but I did wonder if there might have been a power supply issue or if there is a final amplifier after the "video out" socket, (a bit like in the old TV's or radio's). I could try working on the video driver, would I access that from control panel and look for something like up-date drivers? - sorry but I am not too conversant with these things. As I think you inferred, if it
I had a similar problem with an Averatec laptop. It was caused by a failing power circuit that supplies the backlight. In my case, it was covered by an extended warranty. The parts needed to repair such are not too expensive, but unless you can do it yourself, the labor will put a dent in your wallet. To tell if the display is bad or the backlight is dimming, try to look at the display at an angle when it appears to be off. You should still see the display but VERY dim if the LCD is ok.
John, I had a similar problem with a Lenovo. As Peter stated, you could see a dim image but it worked fine with an external monitor. My tech group scrapped it, although a google search showed the model was known for this and parts were inexpensive and readily available. My attitude is I try to fix most anything, it's already broken, is it worth $20 or so to try to fix it, if it's otherwise working ok for you? I wouldn't spend significant dollars on labor. Many components simply unplug/unsnap after removal of some screws.. Paul
Hi Paul, Thank you for your helpful reply. I followed Peter and your advice and have established, (with the aid of a torch and viewing screen at an angle), that there is an image present on the laptop. I will try to google the make, model and fault to see if there might be any suggestions on the likely cause - do you know if laptops have separate power boards as do desktops? if so, that might be a likely starting point. I agree with you Paul, nothing lost in trying to repair something thats already broken! Thanks again for
In my case with the Averatec, it was a small circuit board that provided power to the display backlight. It could also be a failure in the wire that supplies the power. This wire would go through the hinge assembly and gets flexed each time you open or close the display cover.
Last week, when I downloaded and installed updates on one of my netbooks. I got a strange pop-up, apparently outside Windows update, warning me that I might be a victim of pirates and telling me to download and run some kind of Windows activation program to verify that my copy of Windows waslegitimate. My first thought was that there couldn't possibly be an issue, that that machine is running the version of Windows that came with it. It's the only computer I've ever had running Windows 7 Starter, As I thought about it, though, I realized that while it was
I had a similar situation on my wife's computer running Win 7 Home Premium. It also appeared after installing the latest round of updates.
I hesitated to follow the link the pop-up provided for fear of a virus. However, after doing some searching I was lead to the same page and running the software I was "pronounced" legitimate. Anyway, don't think it was due to your drive being cloned. I believe Microsoft occasionally updates its database of keys resulting in some false positives.
On Wed, Dec 17, 2014 at 11:57 AM, <[log in to unmask]> wrote: > Last week, when I downloaded and installed updates on one of my > netbooks. I got a strange pop-up, apparently outside Windows update, > warning me that I might be a victim of pirates and telling me to > download and run some kind of Windows activation program to verify that > my copy of Windows waslegitimate. > My first thought was that there couldn't possibly be an issue, that > that machine is
I was probably infested by a broken Microsoft update, as reported in http://www.infoworld.com/article/2859267/operating-systems/windows-7-hit-by-rash-of-bogus-not-genuine-reports-validation-code-0x8004fe21.html It appears that I probably also got the corrective update, so no lasting harm done. David Gillett -------- Original Message -------- Subject: Re: [PCBUILD] Win7 "Activation" update From: Jerry Belfor <[log in to unmask]> Date: Wed, December 17, 2014 10:09 am To: [log in to unmask] David, I had a similar situation on my wife's computer running Win 7 Home Premium. It also appeared after installing the latest round of updates. I hesitated to follow the link the pop-up provided for fear of a virus. However, after doing some searching I was lead
There are numerous distros available for every particular need. Right now I am using Elementary 0 on my laptop which I like BUT I can't get the wifi to work. Most of the distros are based on Ubuntu and are made for ease of use.
For Desktop use Ubuntu, and if you want to really get into it for Server user Redhat. Free BSD is for real Unix command line gurus. I would suggest you test distros out in a VM to decide which one to install. And/or all of them will run from a USB flashdrive but you can't
I'm in love with GNOME 3 myself. It fairly fast and smooth, and it looks great, and is easy and fun to use. It has one main issue that I'm aware of: sometimes elements of programs are off-screen without any way to access them unless you change displays or resolutions. This problem has occurred to me about as often as it had on a Windows XP netbook though, which isn't often. I would recomend Ubuntu GNOME, but you could install GNOME on a number of other distros. GNOME works flawlessly with Ubuntu and Fedora, other than that, your taking a
I friend who did the project management of software for Redbox and other propeller hat type projects and he uses Fedora. I thought if I ever wade into Raspberry Pi that would be my OS of choice. He is who told me about them. Looks intriguing!
Brad Loomis
-----Original Message-----
I have been away from Linux and other UNIX like operating systems for a while. Any recommendations for a desktop Linux of free BSD to use now?
Peter Shkabara composed on 2014-12-11 12:50 (UTC-0800):
> I have been away from Linux and other UNIX like operating systems for a > while. Any recommendations for a desktop Linux of free BSD to use now?
If you really have no idea what to pick you should peruse http://distrowatch.com/ to see how various distros fare in popularity based on page hits on that site. It has a whole lot of other useful shoppin info too.
Jacob Smith composed on 2014-12-11 15:53 (UTC-0600):
> I'm in love with GNOME 3 myself. It fairly fast and smooth, and it looks > great, and is easy and fun to use. It has one main issue that I'm aware of: > sometimes elements of programs are off-screen without any way to access > them unless you change displays or resolutions.
Peter Shkabara composed on 2014-12-11 12:50 (UTC-0800):
> I have been away from Linux and other UNIX like operating systems for a > while. Any recommendations for a desktop Linux of free BSD to use now?
If you really have no idea what to pick you should peruse http://distrowatch.com/ to see how various distros fare in popularity based on page hits on that site. It has a whole lot of other useful shoppin info too.
Thank you to all that replied, and for the link from Felix. To answer Felix's question, my reason for considering Linux is that Windows seems to be going in a direction that is not consistent with my needs. I don't need a consistent interface between my cellphone and desktop. Reason for my immediate interest, however, is that I needed to do a simple text extraction repeatedly and it is so easy under UNIX using SED and GREP, but is difficult to do with Windows. I did download Windows versions of those programs and got my job done, but it got
The point at which I got rather serious about using Linux (Ubuntu) was a few years ago, when my volume of email outgrew Pegasus and my main desktop got thoroughly infected by JavaScript-ed emails that Thunderbird couldn't disable. It seemed my most practical alternative was to go on using Thunderbird, but in a non-Windows environment so most infectious scripts wouldn't find targets they recognized. (I did sarch, more than once, for something like the Firefox "NoScript" plug-in for Thunderird. I found half a dozen public posts by people who said they were trying to create one, but no sign that
My wife has a 64-bit Windows 7-based Dell Inspiron N5050, which came with 4 GB of RAM. She has complained that it has been running more and more slowly, so I decided to add another memory card. I got it directly from Dell since I've had issues with third-party RAM before on my own machine. I installed it per the directions in the user manual, but when I next started the computer and looked at the System Information display, I saw that it still only shows a total of 4 GB of RAM even though a total of 8 GB
There is a reason why it's getting slower. Perhaps you should reinstall the OS. The HD may be failing. If it's a very old machine, perhaps you should consider a more efficient OS, like Android, Haiku, Ubuntu, Peppermint, or some other Linux version.
On Sun, Nov 16, 2014 at 12:31 PM, Ken Shearer <[log in to unmask]> wrote: > > > My wife has a 64-bit Windows 7-based Dell Inspiron N5050, which came > with 4 > > GB of RAM. She has complained that it has been running more and more > > slowly, > > so I decided to add another
That's odd as both Dell support and Memorystock say that the Inspiron N5050 can take 8GB of ram.
Regards. Steve
On 16 November 2014 19:18, Brad Feuerhelm <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
> Hey Ken > > Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but you laptop can only handle 4 gig. > > At this point Dell doesn't support the laptop anymore. So no option for a > firmware upgrade. > > At this point I would send the memory back and consider buying a newer > laptop. > > A lot of the newer ones will handle 8+ gigs. But
Sorry, I don't know the answer to your question (other hten suggesting you boot into the BIOS to see if there is a setting) but did want to correct what Brad said. According to the link I've attached you can have 8 gig of memory.
You probably have a bunch of cookies, file fragments, spyware, adware, tracking ware, and/or bloatware. No one seems to realize the junk that is installed and/or left behind from surfing the internet and downloading and installing programs. The cumulative effect of this stuff is a slower PC.
I have even refused and hidden MS Updates because they would never apply to my uses and/or they have known bugs associated with them.
That laptop can only handle 4gigs of RAM, though a 64bit operation system can handle much more, it is simply the physical limitation of that system and the MOBO. It also only has a 2 core Intel. But if you want to speed it up, I would clean out programs that start-up when the laptop is turned on. Most programs DO NOT need to be loading when Windows starts. Also may want to check for malware. You need to return that memory, if you can.
> That's odd as both Dell support and Memorystock say that the Inspiron N5050 > can take 8GB of ram. I suspect that this kind of issue may be quite common. I have two netbooks, one frome Acer and one from Gateway, and the Acer took an upgrade from 1GB to 2GB with no problem, but I got the specific 2GB SO-DIMM that Crucial recommended for the Gateway model, and it still stubbornly recognizs only 1GB.... David Gillett
Ken, Your laptop is able to use 8 gig of memory, if it isn't seen try reseating it, sometimes it seems to be fully seated but may not be. I suggest you download and run the free CCleaner from Piriform and their Defraggler which I have found to be far superior to MS's defrag. Feel free to Email me if I can be of help. Hal Seabolt
Everything I've read about the N5050 says that the maximum it can use is 4gb. Do you have a source that refers to the 8gb for Ken to refer to? That would be very helpful :)
Tony M.
> Hal Seabolt <mailto:[log in to unmask]> > November 17, 2014 2:50 PM > Ken, > Your laptop is able to use 8 > gig of memory <snip>
I agree with Hal.If it's not seated properly then the os won't recognize it. CC cleaner is quite good also. Used it on all my win systems and free also though you can donate. Stephen
On 17 November 2014 22:50, Hal Seabolt <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
> Ken, > Your laptop is able to use 8 > gig of memory, if it isn't > seen try reseating it, > sometimes it seems to be fully > seated but may not be. > I suggest you download and run > the free CCleaner from > Piriform and their Defraggler > which I have
As you have noticed, there are various opinions abouit this memory issue.
The official specs of the Inspiron N5050 are here http://www.dell.com/support/home/us/en/19/product-support/product/inspiron-15-intel-n5050/manuals Download the Specs Manual PDF and you'll see that this laptop can take 8 GB
Sofar as the memory addition not being recognized, try the following: 1. Leave only one memory module in place and see what the system reports.
I think the problem is that Dell only offers a maximum of 4gb, but the machine has 2 slots and can accommodate 2 x 4mb. I was unable to download the specs from Dell, but all memory upgrade outfits say that the N5050 can handle 8gb, for instance here:
Bruce Boschek composed on 2014-11-18 07:05 (UTC+0100):
> I think the problem is that Dell only offers a maximum of 4gb, but the > machine has 2 slots and can accommodate 2 x 4mb.
Dell BIOS have a way of supporting less than the hardware specifications support. For instance, the hardware would support the speed of PC6400 RAM, but Dell configured it so RAM would run no faster than PC5300 supports, which it did because at that time it offered a more expensive up model that featured that difference. Another instance would be a chipset supporting multicore (e.g. 945G/GX620, IIRC)
